junkyard03

iTrader: (2)

hey guys so my build is damn near ready to drop in. my current issue is what harness option to use and i wanted some opinions. currently im rolling a blk 97 Sc300 with a r154. since my ish is obd II i know there is some plug and play issue with a soarer harness so here is what i have ended up accumulating and its time to figure this out so ...


currently in my possesion i have

jdm 2j aristo ecu with sensor
94 soarer harness
fields harness to conver 2jzge to gte


i've been reading up on the na-tt mod and been trying to find more about the soarer harness issue with the obd II but i wanted to put it out there to those who've done it..

if it makes a difference as well i have a safc 2, AEM tru boost and wideband to run with it as well


please no neg. comments

Elevated

You need the wiring diagrams for your car and the soarer harness. If you're not familiar with the logistics of a jzgte, you're going to have a hard time figuring out what needs to be swapped to go where and why. if youre savvy with it, it can be done with just the book and the soarer harness and the aristo ecu plugs. I personally would modify the harness to work with the ecu. Fields harnesses suck unless you are wanting to wire in piggy backs and possibly return to stock later. Sounds like you should really pay someone to do this, to do it properly it takes a lot of work.

junkyard03

iTrader: (2)

I know that the ABS is one of the issues with using the soarer harness and some of the gauges need repinning . as far as reverting to stock. im not getting rid of the car at this point . its starting to become a fewer site to see our cars out and about let alone modded ones. I am going to get help with this being I have a small amount of experience with it but I wanted some opinions on which way to go with what I have

mikef

iTrader: (3)

so are the OBD1 easier to do all this vs OBD2?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you are odb2 but at least you are not vvti so its really not all that bad.
I am assuming 2jzge bottom end and 1jz head.
alot of this depends on wether you want to use a jdm ecu or usdm ecu, and wether you want to use an odb1 or odb2 ecu.

to keep emissions and everything working, I would say you should shoot for an obd2 usdm 2jzgte ecu.
I will break it down for the different kinds though, but that will require the least amount of work for you.

If you are going single turbo, I would just use the harness that is in the car it will plug up to all the stuff on your block and dash harness obviously.

slap the 1jz head on there, you will have to use the cam sensors on the head, and for the crank sensor 96 and 97 ge has a crank sensor on the crank (lucky you), but it has the wrong timing gear, you have to remove the one that is on there and run a 2jzgte non-vvti crank timing gear, and then your crank signal will be done but it goes to a different pin on the odb2 ecu than the 2jzge distributor crank signal (same pin as 2jzgte crank signal), so you will have to move that pin at the ecu for crank signal 2 to the spot for crank signal 1 for the distributor.

Wire up your 2 new cam sensors signal wires to the distributor plug wires (which has 2 cam wires, 1 crank wires and a shared ground). Tie both the cam grounds together and run it to distributor ground wire, wire up the respective cam wires to the signal wires. leave this crank wire on the distributor plug alone since we have decided to use the sensor that is on the actual crank one move it's wire to the pin where the distributor crank wire used to go, so this crank wire on the distributor plug is not used anymore.

Then you need to add in the wires for the ignitor and coilpacks, and map/maf sensor depending on if you use a jdm or usdm ecu, injectors to match the ecu (550 for us or 440 for jdm), basically from this point on it is the exact same as the odb1 tt ecu mod. you can use vvti coils on the 1jz head but its a tight fit.
you can use the 1jz harness to take the coilpack and ignitor wiring from, extend it and add it in to your current harness at the ecu plug, there are only like 7 or 8 wires for all the ignition once you separate it. you could also build it from scratch like I have, but if you have the harness to take it from, and especially if you are using tt coils which have alot more wires, its easier to take the harness apart and combine the 2.