DIY: How to install HEADERS V8. Rush headers long tube
08-19-13, 10:36 PM
#1
DIY: How to install HEADERS V8. Rush headers long tube
couldnt find much pictures of headers being installed for a 1uz. this is a small write up.
FIRST my transmission was out so it might have been a little easier for me to install. im installing them from the floor on jack stands. IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO PUT YOUR CAR ON JACK STANDS PROPERLY DONT EVEN ATTEMPT THIS. YOU WILL CRUSH YOURSELF.
FLEX HEAD Wrench 14mm will help lots. i had 4 different 14mm wrench. a regular one, ratching one, short/stubby ratching and, the flex head.
swivel socket 14mm
Remove your mid-pipe (y-pipe) no pictures since i removed it when i dropped my transmission. watch for RUSTED bolts/nuts. air tools will help greatly!
driver side mid pipe off. 14mm bolts and buts
remove cats. ( this is the driver side ) Rusted nuts. i broke like 3 studs total from the 2 cats just with hand tools.
remove O2 sensor. 22mm wrench or o2 sensor socket. would make it easier on you. i left mines on since i like to make my life harder and to see if it can be done without remove the senor.
remove the steering shaft connected to the rack. 12mm bolts you can mark it so you can put it back in the same position later then reinstalling.
remove oem heat shield 3* 12mm bolts.
remove the 8* 14mm nuts on the header. this is where its kind of tricky. i used lots of different 14mm wrenches to get the right angle to remove the nuts. you can remove some of the nuts from the bay and some you will have to go under the car to remove. i also used swivel and long 14mm sockets for this. SMALL hands will help. LOL my hands arent that small so i had lots of cuts from being against the header and frame.
off the car compared to the rush header.
installing driver side. i had to drop the sub frame a bit. 3* 19mm bolts. i used a pry bar to pull the frame down a bit to put the rush header in.
HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE RUSH. had to open up 2 holes on the flange since it didnt bolt onto the block correctly. new gaskets and o2 sensors. bolt everything back up is easier then removing. bolt back the steering shaft, steering shaft to the column has only one position to bolt on correctly.
DRIVER SIDE should be done.
PASSENGER SIDE is a lot easier then the driver.
have some pictures but dont remember which was which, but pretty straight forward like the driver side.
Remove cat 3*14mm nuts. o2 sensor (i left mines on). heat shield 3*12mm bolts. remove header 8*14mm nuts.
you also need to remove the egr pipe. goes from header to back in intake manifold. 2*12mm nuts
back of block egr pipe 12mm
back on intake manifold 2* 12mm bolts YOU WILL NEED A BLOCK OFF PLATE. i made my own gasket with sheet metal and i cut the egr to use as a plate.
i did not have to drop the sub frame on the passenger side to REMOVE AND INSTALL the new header. i had to open up some of the hole on the flange on this side also. since it didnt bolt to the block.
headers installed. sexy
FIRST my transmission was out so it might have been a little easier for me to install. im installing them from the floor on jack stands. IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO PUT YOUR CAR ON JACK STANDS PROPERLY DONT EVEN ATTEMPT THIS. YOU WILL CRUSH YOURSELF.
FLEX HEAD Wrench 14mm will help lots. i had 4 different 14mm wrench. a regular one, ratching one, short/stubby ratching and, the flex head.
swivel socket 14mm
Remove your mid-pipe (y-pipe) no pictures since i removed it when i dropped my transmission. watch for RUSTED bolts/nuts. air tools will help greatly!
driver side mid pipe off. 14mm bolts and buts
remove cats. ( this is the driver side ) Rusted nuts. i broke like 3 studs total from the 2 cats just with hand tools.
remove O2 sensor. 22mm wrench or o2 sensor socket. would make it easier on you. i left mines on since i like to make my life harder and to see if it can be done without remove the senor.
remove the steering shaft connected to the rack. 12mm bolts you can mark it so you can put it back in the same position later then reinstalling.
remove oem heat shield 3* 12mm bolts.
remove the 8* 14mm nuts on the header. this is where its kind of tricky. i used lots of different 14mm wrenches to get the right angle to remove the nuts. you can remove some of the nuts from the bay and some you will have to go under the car to remove. i also used swivel and long 14mm sockets for this. SMALL hands will help. LOL my hands arent that small so i had lots of cuts from being against the header and frame.
off the car compared to the rush header.
installing driver side. i had to drop the sub frame a bit. 3* 19mm bolts. i used a pry bar to pull the frame down a bit to put the rush header in.
HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE RUSH. had to open up 2 holes on the flange since it didnt bolt onto the block correctly. new gaskets and o2 sensors. bolt everything back up is easier then removing. bolt back the steering shaft, steering shaft to the column has only one position to bolt on correctly.
DRIVER SIDE should be done.
PASSENGER SIDE is a lot easier then the driver.
have some pictures but dont remember which was which, but pretty straight forward like the driver side.
Remove cat 3*14mm nuts. o2 sensor (i left mines on). heat shield 3*12mm bolts. remove header 8*14mm nuts.
you also need to remove the egr pipe. goes from header to back in intake manifold. 2*12mm nuts
back of block egr pipe 12mm
back on intake manifold 2* 12mm bolts YOU WILL NEED A BLOCK OFF PLATE. i made my own gasket with sheet metal and i cut the egr to use as a plate.
i did not have to drop the sub frame on the passenger side to REMOVE AND INSTALL the new header. i had to open up some of the hole on the flange on this side also. since it didnt bolt to the block.
headers installed. sexy
Last edited by k7q; 08-19-13 at 10:44 PM.
08-19-13, 11:49 PM
#2
Great write up, but what a pain in the a$$ this looks like. Luckily I bought my SC with my PPE's already installed. I'd say worth the effort in the end; headers with a proper exhaust really allow the 1UZ to come alive. You'll have a lot of fun 
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