washed my engine, now guess what........
07-09-13, 03:09 PM
#31
well all the fuses were good when i checked them. i checked just the normal fuses. not any of the sealed closed fuses. but dealer said the wiring inside the junction box was bad. they gave me the part number and the part number is the whole box. now obviously the dealer isnt gonna wanna sit down and fix a couple of wires by taking it out and taking it apart. so i'd want to see if i can repair it myself. if not then i will buy the box and have the dealer install. but i know its not gonna be the fuses or relays.
07-10-13, 08:45 AM
#32
still sounds like the relay to me, are any of the other stuff in your car not working, the junction box basically powers all your electronics and most everything you can turn on or off on the interior of the car. If all your radio's are working and everything else is, then it would have to just be that 1 EFI circuit. I just don't see why it would fry the wires in the box instead of blowing the fuse, but look into it maybe you can figure it out. I would still replaced the relay and fuse for peace of mind.
08-17-13, 06:51 PM
#33
back from the dead cause i still dont have a car and now i'm just getting upset.
yeah its not a relay ali. idk. theyre weird. so i talked to toyota and they told me what fuse was getting power but not sending power out. so i gave them a seperate fuse box out of a sc400 obd2. the tech put it in and it didnt work. it actually got worse. no crank, lost my check engine light on when they turned the key. and something else that i cant remember. so i bought another one from the junkyard from a 94 sc300. as i took the third fuse box to toyota, i took the very first one home. i asked the tech what fuse it was and he specified it as the 7.5amp fuse under the airbag connector. (i'll take a picture of everything and post it up later.) anyways, when i took it home and took it apart, it all seemed perfect. not a single wire is out of place or burnt. so i just got a jumper cable, connected it to each end of the fuse. then got a volt meter, and with a voltmeter i checked for voltage at each tab that was connected to that specific fuse. (again, i'll post pictures later.) by that time i got a call from toyota and they said the third fusebox wasnt gonna work either. well everything was perfect. so i just took the fuse box back to toyota and miraculously it worked again. :/ no changed fuses nothing different.but now i got a different problem. its cranking again, but still no spark. anyways, now the tech said that i'm getting power out of the fusebox, and its going into the ecu. but no power coming out of the ecu.
so i need a new ecu. :/ anybody know what i could do for a new ecu? thanks.
yeah its not a relay ali. idk. theyre weird. so i talked to toyota and they told me what fuse was getting power but not sending power out. so i gave them a seperate fuse box out of a sc400 obd2. the tech put it in and it didnt work. it actually got worse. no crank, lost my check engine light on when they turned the key. and something else that i cant remember. so i bought another one from the junkyard from a 94 sc300. as i took the third fuse box to toyota, i took the very first one home. i asked the tech what fuse it was and he specified it as the 7.5amp fuse under the airbag connector. (i'll take a picture of everything and post it up later.) anyways, when i took it home and took it apart, it all seemed perfect. not a single wire is out of place or burnt. so i just got a jumper cable, connected it to each end of the fuse. then got a volt meter, and with a voltmeter i checked for voltage at each tab that was connected to that specific fuse. (again, i'll post pictures later.) by that time i got a call from toyota and they said the third fusebox wasnt gonna work either. well everything was perfect. so i just took the fuse box back to toyota and miraculously it worked again. :/ no changed fuses nothing different.but now i got a different problem. its cranking again, but still no spark. anyways, now the tech said that i'm getting power out of the fusebox, and its going into the ecu. but no power coming out of the ecu.
so i need a new ecu. :/ anybody know what i could do for a new ecu? thanks.
10-14-13, 07:28 PM
#34
i'm really sorry for such a long story but i havent started my baby in 3 months. i'm givin gas much details as i can and asking for everybody's help cause at this point i'm completely and utterly stumped.
so here's where i stand.
toyota said bad computer. i got it repaired at foreignecurepair.com. i cant really say anything bad or good because idk. when i sent my ecu out, my check engine light didnt turn on when i turned the key for the self check. i got it back and he replaced the caps on it. also, he replaced the main efi transistor.
***Off subject but reason he changed that transistor inside the computer is because i wired my electric fan set up to the main efi fuse. whice is wired to that transistor. my guess is that the transistor was working so had to keep fuel up to par while sending power to the fan relays as well. i knew something was up when he called and said he had to change a certain transistor on mine that he had never seen go bad before. im stupid for that i know. i guess i just didnt read the efi part. but i disconnected the fan set up completely now.***
so when i got my ecu back, he highlighted the pin that was wired to that transistor, it ended up being for the efi main fuse. i looked at the computer pin out diagram that i got from toyota and it said it was the efi main fuse so thats when i disconnected it.
after that, i plugged the computer back in, turned the key on, (still no check engine light showing up,) and cranked the car. was doing the exact same thing as before. cranking but not starting.
recently, i bought a used ecu from this forum. i got it in the mail, plugged it in, and bam the check engine light turns on. but still no start. :/ the car was doing the exact same thing. cranking but no start. i have replaced distributor, computer, i had the igniter tested 3 different times at 2 different autozones and still no start.
***when i bought the ecu, i made sure it had the exact same numbers on it as mine. so as far as that goes, same ecu. maybe i got a partially bad ecu or idk but the guy said it worked before he sent it to me.***
anyways, since i plugged in the new ecu, i havent checked if im getting spark or fuel yet, so for now im gonna check that. but till then anything else i should check for?
i talked to foreignecurepair.com and the guy said he would repair the one i just bought for free but i dont want to send it in till i get my car working.
my whole thing is i think i have a sensor shorting out and not letting the computer get the voltage signal/signal's its supposed to. i understand these cars dont use crank sensors. so camshaft and maf sensor is all it should really need to get it started right? or can something else make it not start?
so here's where i stand.
toyota said bad computer. i got it repaired at foreignecurepair.com. i cant really say anything bad or good because idk. when i sent my ecu out, my check engine light didnt turn on when i turned the key for the self check. i got it back and he replaced the caps on it. also, he replaced the main efi transistor.
***Off subject but reason he changed that transistor inside the computer is because i wired my electric fan set up to the main efi fuse. whice is wired to that transistor. my guess is that the transistor was working so had to keep fuel up to par while sending power to the fan relays as well. i knew something was up when he called and said he had to change a certain transistor on mine that he had never seen go bad before. im stupid for that i know. i guess i just didnt read the efi part. but i disconnected the fan set up completely now.***
so when i got my ecu back, he highlighted the pin that was wired to that transistor, it ended up being for the efi main fuse. i looked at the computer pin out diagram that i got from toyota and it said it was the efi main fuse so thats when i disconnected it.
after that, i plugged the computer back in, turned the key on, (still no check engine light showing up,) and cranked the car. was doing the exact same thing as before. cranking but not starting.
recently, i bought a used ecu from this forum. i got it in the mail, plugged it in, and bam the check engine light turns on. but still no start. :/ the car was doing the exact same thing. cranking but no start. i have replaced distributor, computer, i had the igniter tested 3 different times at 2 different autozones and still no start.
***when i bought the ecu, i made sure it had the exact same numbers on it as mine. so as far as that goes, same ecu. maybe i got a partially bad ecu or idk but the guy said it worked before he sent it to me.***
anyways, since i plugged in the new ecu, i havent checked if im getting spark or fuel yet, so for now im gonna check that. but till then anything else i should check for?
i talked to foreignecurepair.com and the guy said he would repair the one i just bought for free but i dont want to send it in till i get my car working.
my whole thing is i think i have a sensor shorting out and not letting the computer get the voltage signal/signal's its supposed to. i understand these cars dont use crank sensors. so camshaft and maf sensor is all it should really need to get it started right? or can something else make it not start?
10-15-13, 08:13 AM
#35
there is a crank sensor, 1 crank sensor and 2 cam sensors If I remember right but its the cam sensor wire that gets chewed up by the belt alot on the 400, want to say drivers side.
If your new ecu is making the check engine light come on, jump the diagnostic connector now and see if you can pull some codes that would help narrow it down again possibly.
If your new ecu is making the check engine light come on, jump the diagnostic connector now and see if you can pull some codes that would help narrow it down again possibly.
10-15-13, 11:15 AM
#36
there is a crank sensor, 1 crank sensor and 2 cam sensors If I remember right but its the cam sensor wire that gets chewed up by the belt alot on the 400, want to say drivers side.
If your new ecu is making the check engine light come on, jump the diagnostic connector now and see if you can pull some codes that would help narrow it down again possibly.
If your new ecu is making the check engine light come on, jump the diagnostic connector now and see if you can pull some codes that would help narrow it down again possibly.
but i just did some more test. no spark. no more check engine light turning on when i flip the key. i have a short that's frying my computers so no matter what computer i have, its gonna fry it. :/ idk how to find it. where to even start.
10-15-13, 12:26 PM
#37
so what does it do exactly when you turn the key, the starter motor just keeps turning and no spark?
you aren't getting the check engine light at all which is very suspect of the ecu. Ill try to think of what else it could be.
you do have 1 crank and 2 cam sensors they are just inside the distributor on the sc300.
you should be able to start it with the distributor in and the ignition and fuel hooked up, even with bad sensors, it should start and then die out if something is wrong generally.
almost seems like the ecu is not getting power or not turning on. There is an efi or fuel or similarly named fuse in the kick panel that could someone reported knocking out the ignition before, I would start there.
pull them all out and check them if you have to. its by your left foot when sitting in the car and not fun to access.
if you did any other wiring, it would be wise to undo any splices that may have been done.
never wire anything to the ecu's 5v circuit, it is regulated by the ecu and there is no fuse, its normally used for sensors. once you blow it it has to be repaired. there are also sensors running off of 12v, however these are generally relayed and fused in the box somewhere.
It is possible you also blew something else if you blow the ecu main efi transistor, do you remember the pin number or location? It could be the main efi relay as well as the ecu that was damaged, and a blown main efi relay would cause many issues.
the proper way to do the fan is a seperate relay, and you use one of the switched power signals from lets say the ignition (black/red) in the bay to turn on the relay. never wire a fan directly into the efi circuit as I am sure you now know =)
you aren't getting the check engine light at all which is very suspect of the ecu. Ill try to think of what else it could be.
you do have 1 crank and 2 cam sensors they are just inside the distributor on the sc300.
you should be able to start it with the distributor in and the ignition and fuel hooked up, even with bad sensors, it should start and then die out if something is wrong generally.
almost seems like the ecu is not getting power or not turning on. There is an efi or fuel or similarly named fuse in the kick panel that could someone reported knocking out the ignition before, I would start there.
pull them all out and check them if you have to. its by your left foot when sitting in the car and not fun to access.
if you did any other wiring, it would be wise to undo any splices that may have been done.
never wire anything to the ecu's 5v circuit, it is regulated by the ecu and there is no fuse, its normally used for sensors. once you blow it it has to be repaired. there are also sensors running off of 12v, however these are generally relayed and fused in the box somewhere.
It is possible you also blew something else if you blow the ecu main efi transistor, do you remember the pin number or location? It could be the main efi relay as well as the ecu that was damaged, and a blown main efi relay would cause many issues.
the proper way to do the fan is a seperate relay, and you use one of the switched power signals from lets say the ignition (black/red) in the bay to turn on the relay. never wire a fan directly into the efi circuit as I am sure you now know =)
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-15-13 at 12:30 PM.
10-16-13, 12:14 AM
#38
so what does it do exactly when you turn the key, the starter motor just keeps turning and no spark?
you aren't getting the check engine light at all which is very suspect of the ecu. Ill try to think of what else it could be.
you do have 1 crank and 2 cam sensors they are just inside the distributor on the sc300.
you should be able to start it with the distributor in and the ignition and fuel hooked up, even with bad sensors, it should start and then die out if something is wrong generally.
almost seems like the ecu is not getting power or not turning on. There is an efi or fuel or similarly named fuse in the kick panel that could someone reported knocking out the ignition before, I would start there.
pull them all out and check them if you have to. its by your left foot when sitting in the car and not fun to access.
if you did any other wiring, it would be wise to undo any splices that may have been done.
never wire anything to the ecu's 5v circuit, it is regulated by the ecu and there is no fuse, its normally used for sensors. once you blow it it has to be repaired. there are also sensors running off of 12v, however these are generally relayed and fused in the box somewhere.
It is possible you also blew something else if you blow the ecu main efi transistor, do you remember the pin number or location? It could be the main efi relay as well as the ecu that was damaged, and a blown main efi relay would cause many issues.
the proper way to do the fan is a seperate relay, and you use one of the switched power signals from lets say the ignition (black/red) in the bay to turn on the relay. never wire a fan directly into the efi circuit as I am sure you now know =)
you aren't getting the check engine light at all which is very suspect of the ecu. Ill try to think of what else it could be.
you do have 1 crank and 2 cam sensors they are just inside the distributor on the sc300.
you should be able to start it with the distributor in and the ignition and fuel hooked up, even with bad sensors, it should start and then die out if something is wrong generally.
almost seems like the ecu is not getting power or not turning on. There is an efi or fuel or similarly named fuse in the kick panel that could someone reported knocking out the ignition before, I would start there.
pull them all out and check them if you have to. its by your left foot when sitting in the car and not fun to access.
if you did any other wiring, it would be wise to undo any splices that may have been done.
never wire anything to the ecu's 5v circuit, it is regulated by the ecu and there is no fuse, its normally used for sensors. once you blow it it has to be repaired. there are also sensors running off of 12v, however these are generally relayed and fused in the box somewhere.
It is possible you also blew something else if you blow the ecu main efi transistor, do you remember the pin number or location? It could be the main efi relay as well as the ecu that was damaged, and a blown main efi relay would cause many issues.
the proper way to do the fan is a seperate relay, and you use one of the switched power signals from lets say the ignition (black/red) in the bay to turn on the relay. never wire a fan directly into the efi circuit as I am sure you now know =)
Let me answer all of this.
1) when i turn the key, i have everything plugged in. i put the key in, turn the swith, and it just cranks. it'll crank all day, but not a single split of wanting to actually turn the engine on. i take out the wire from the coil to the dizzy to see if the coil makes spark but it doesnt make spark. i havent checked for fuel cause there is no spark.
2) no check engine anymore. as i said before. when i first had this problem, took my car to toyota, they diagnosed it as bad ecu. i got a different ecu and the check engine light did turn on. but now it wont turn on at all. so i feel something shorted out and fried my ecu. :/ thus eliminating ecu being the base problem.
3) i thought so too. as long as it gets spark air and fuel it should start. but i remember in my advanced auto electronics class from college that when you touch two wires on a random sensor that feed the computer, it could turn the car off immediately. (each vehicle and sensor is different) so my guess is that if two wires are touching, it just wont let the car turn on. not externally but shorted out inside the sensor/connector from when i wet the engine bay. but i dont see any water damage so i'd guess sensor itself. but i dont see how that can fry the computer instead of just turning the car off like it did in my auto class. then again, every car is different.
4) idk if any of my fuses have issues. not to sound like a **** but i've had many different people say fuses, fuses, fuses. but in all honesty when toyota had my car, they first said all my fuses were good, but my fuse box wasnt getting power, so my computer wasnt getting power. i gave them 2 different fuse boxes and neither worked. if anything they made the car worse. (no crank)
anyways, they put the original fuse box back after the second fuse box and mysteriously it worked again. computer was getting power now. but it wasnt sending power out. toyota never told me the exact problem with my ecu though. but thats when i just figured get a new ecu. and then back to square 1.
5) i did get a relay for each fan. its a derale programmable fan switch with relay. dont remember the number. but anyways, i wired the main ecu relay to power the fan on only because i didnt see it was for fuel. i was just in such a rush to get my fans working and blah blah. i had been up all freakin weekend. anyways i didnt know so thats where i ****ed up. lol. but i did learn my lesson. i have the whole fan disconnected now. the pin on the computer was pin number 24 on the side with no screw on the connector. if you look at the diagram its for efi main relay black and orange wire. so if you pull out the fuse box and look under efi relay, its black and orange as well.
there's another relay inside the fuse box that looks and operates exactly the same as efi main relay. so i just switched the two eliminating the possibility of it being the relay.
10-16-13, 02:01 AM
#39
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You can ohm out relay. 85 and 86 should have around 80ish ohms and you can just keep your finger on the relay when its hooked and feel for the click that is moving those arms from 87 to 87a or vise verse.
I recently ran into no start no spark issue too on my car, but that was a 1J. If you think its something in your efi causing this. See what all circuits the EFI runs ( wiring diagram). Then go to your ecu do voltage drop on the pinouts that go from your efi to ecu. I saw in your other video where you said voltage drop and saying 5-6 volts and saying its okay. THAT IS TOO MUCH VOLTAGE DROP THAT IS DEFINITELY A PROBLEM . 12 volt system anything over 0.2- 0.5 Volts dropping in a circuit is too much and there is a problem there. Voltage drop is + TO + OR - TO - of circuit, i'm sure they taught you that in your auto class.
Put your Key in ON position and test everything on your ecu ( voltage drops) and use T Pins to back probe them because when you shuv those big test leads from your DVOM into your connectors you spread them out making it a possible high resistance circuits because the connectors are too big now to contact properly.So if there wasnt a problem you just created a problem yourself by doing that. If something isn't getting to your ecu then you can go check on that circuit. voltage drop every god damm thing out. Its your ECU you have to sit in one place. See all grounds on ecu pinouts Hook up a wire from negative battery post and do voltage drops on every ground. then do the Positive one with the wire on the positive side of battery. You will find your problem for sure.
If you want to do this the hard way you can t pin anything and ohm out the wire that goes to the ecu by back probing ecu plugs. Example: Crank sensor you can t pin one wire on the sensor and t pin the wire that goes on the ecu plug and ohm them out.
When you check everything at ecu you make it fail safe. What i mean to say is when you check at your ecu and it works like it should you know everything is good in the wires under the hood. But when you do the same thing under the hood and check it good, you dont know if your ecu is seeing that too.
i'm only asking you to do all this is so that you find the problem, i read you threw an ecu at it already and seems like it fried again. You can throw another ecu and same thing will keep on happening until you find the problem and fix it.
I did all of this on my car before i opened my ecu to check for bad caps. It wont take you a whole day or 2 to find this problem.
I am sorry if i sounded rude, but i just wanted to get the message conveyed.
Note: dont go to your ecu with a test light unless its an LED test light, or else you can give your ecu goodbye kisses all day. Even if your ecu is fried you will still get all singals everything going into your ecu.
Goodluck,
-L0kz
I recently ran into no start no spark issue too on my car, but that was a 1J. If you think its something in your efi causing this. See what all circuits the EFI runs ( wiring diagram). Then go to your ecu do voltage drop on the pinouts that go from your efi to ecu. I saw in your other video where you said voltage drop and saying 5-6 volts and saying its okay. THAT IS TOO MUCH VOLTAGE DROP THAT IS DEFINITELY A PROBLEM . 12 volt system anything over 0.2- 0.5 Volts dropping in a circuit is too much and there is a problem there. Voltage drop is + TO + OR - TO - of circuit, i'm sure they taught you that in your auto class.
Put your Key in ON position and test everything on your ecu ( voltage drops) and use T Pins to back probe them because when you shuv those big test leads from your DVOM into your connectors you spread them out making it a possible high resistance circuits because the connectors are too big now to contact properly.So if there wasnt a problem you just created a problem yourself by doing that. If something isn't getting to your ecu then you can go check on that circuit. voltage drop every god damm thing out. Its your ECU you have to sit in one place. See all grounds on ecu pinouts Hook up a wire from negative battery post and do voltage drops on every ground. then do the Positive one with the wire on the positive side of battery. You will find your problem for sure.
If you want to do this the hard way you can t pin anything and ohm out the wire that goes to the ecu by back probing ecu plugs. Example: Crank sensor you can t pin one wire on the sensor and t pin the wire that goes on the ecu plug and ohm them out.
When you check everything at ecu you make it fail safe. What i mean to say is when you check at your ecu and it works like it should you know everything is good in the wires under the hood. But when you do the same thing under the hood and check it good, you dont know if your ecu is seeing that too.
i'm only asking you to do all this is so that you find the problem, i read you threw an ecu at it already and seems like it fried again. You can throw another ecu and same thing will keep on happening until you find the problem and fix it.
I did all of this on my car before i opened my ecu to check for bad caps. It wont take you a whole day or 2 to find this problem.
I am sorry if i sounded rude, but i just wanted to get the message conveyed.
Note: dont go to your ecu with a test light unless its an LED test light, or else you can give your ecu goodbye kisses all day. Even if your ecu is fried you will still get all singals everything going into your ecu.
Goodluck,
-L0kz
Last edited by Lokz; 10-16-13 at 03:39 AM.
10-16-13, 10:26 AM
#40
yeah i know i'm not gonna be buying another ecu until i find the short. cause if i get another it'll fry it. i also know the test light thing that fries ecu's. lol. they did teach me that in school.
the voltage drop that you said is to much on the video, i actually just caught that myself. i dont see why there's that much resistance. i did a continuity test not really a voltage drop test. a voltage drop is with it connected. anyways, i'll have to check that again and if it's that high im gonna check it out. thanks.
as far as voltage drop testing the whole ecu, i feel like ohm testing each wire would be more accurate considering my computer is fried. i'd take the computer out and make sure each wire has a certain amount of ohms. am i right or wrong? but i did know positive to positive and negative to negative for the voltage drop. thanks though. haha.
the voltage drop that you said is to much on the video, i actually just caught that myself. i dont see why there's that much resistance. i did a continuity test not really a voltage drop test. a voltage drop is with it connected. anyways, i'll have to check that again and if it's that high im gonna check it out. thanks.
as far as voltage drop testing the whole ecu, i feel like ohm testing each wire would be more accurate considering my computer is fried. i'd take the computer out and make sure each wire has a certain amount of ohms. am i right or wrong? but i did know positive to positive and negative to negative for the voltage drop.
thanks though. haha.
10-16-13, 01:31 PM
#41
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I only say do voltage drop first is because its the easiest to do. It wont take you more than 30 mins to do the check the whole thing. Look at all the things that send power to ecu ( the +ive side). Then you just run a wire from +ive of the battery to your dvom and other end T pinning each wire that is +ve on ecu and your key in On position with your ECU hooked up to your car. Then do the same with the negative side, T pin and test one at a time, and places where you find the problem leave your T pin in there and check for next. Once you are done with all of them, see the wires you left your T pin at and then look into that circuit. Its fairly easy.
Where as when you go to Ohm it all out, you will need to run to sensors to ECU, its not hard but time consuming.
You get a box of T pins at walmart for 2 bux or something. I always carry a box around cus i like to **** around with my car too much even when nothing is wrong with it. Your DVOM will have that beeping thing too for checking ohms so everytime you hear a beep you know there is continuity, that way you dont have to look at your ohm meter for everything you do. Thats how i check my fuses, aint nobody got time to look back and forth at dvom, beep beep all day lol.
I would also agree with AliSC3 go check your crank sensor and cam sensors too. You just T pin both wires of your sensor, hook up an oscilloscope and go crank your car and see what graphs it shows. I know those things are expensive but see if you can rent one or borrow from your auto school or something. Someone should be able to help you with this.
Note: When T pinning dont T pin into the wire, T pin into the connector that way you are not ****ing up your wires when you do this
let us know what happens
Gl
-L0kz
Where as when you go to Ohm it all out, you will need to run to sensors to ECU, its not hard but time consuming.
You get a box of T pins at walmart for 2 bux or something. I always carry a box around cus i like to **** around with my car too much even when nothing is wrong with it. Your DVOM will have that beeping thing too for checking ohms so everytime you hear a beep you know there is continuity, that way you dont have to look at your ohm meter for everything you do. Thats how i check my fuses, aint nobody got time to look back and forth at dvom, beep beep all day lol.
I would also agree with AliSC3 go check your crank sensor and cam sensors too. You just T pin both wires of your sensor, hook up an oscilloscope and go crank your car and see what graphs it shows. I know those things are expensive but see if you can rent one or borrow from your auto school or something. Someone should be able to help you with this.
Note: When T pinning dont T pin into the wire, T pin into the connector that way you are not ****ing up your wires when you do this
let us know what happens
Gl
-L0kz
10-19-13, 04:41 PM
#43
holy crap i got more problems. lol.
anyways, i went to do a voltage drop test on my ecu. got a couple videos. but anyways, my dad was walking by as i was playing with the wires and he kept hearing relays making and breaking contact. the more i moved the wires, the more they clicked.
also noticed now that the check engine light is back on. so... loose contact on the wires to ecu. that sucks for me but i'll find them. anyways i justed the te1 and e1 and the check engine light and o/d light just kept flashing. i'll show a video of that too.
anyways, i went to do a voltage drop test on my ecu. got a couple videos. but anyways, my dad was walking by as i was playing with the wires and he kept hearing relays making and breaking contact. the more i moved the wires, the more they clicked.
also noticed now that the check engine light is back on. so... loose contact on the wires to ecu. that sucks for me but i'll find them. anyways i justed the te1 and e1 and the check engine light and o/d light just kept flashing. i'll show a video of that too.
10-19-13, 08:17 PM
#45
MY CAR IS RUNNING!!! I GOT IT TO RUN!!!. yeahhhhhh!!!! connector for ecu isn't making full contact. and with that, the fuel pump runs when i wiggle the connector. same as the check engine light. but it has to be just right, otherwise the check engine light will be on but the fuel pump wont turn on. so it has to be just right.