grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

heres the new video of me putting everything back in the way its supposed to be. still no start.

PseudoK

well if your not getting spark your not getting spark, you have to follow the trail from the spark plugs to the battery.

I would like to think that if he put the distributor in wrong it would still spark. and he would get some kind of fire in the cylinders. having the spark plug out and against the block, when turning it over you should see the spark.

if the fusible link was broken then he wouldnt get any electrical response.

if you have replaced the plugs wire distro and cap, tested the igniter and coil, then whats left is the wiring harness and ECU

Joey-E

iTrader: (1)

You getting fuel?

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

just got a call from Toyota. they said they've never seen this before. but yeah they said its either gonna be the wiring or the ecu. they are ordering a second ecu to check. if it is then they're gonna have to sell me a ecu. but i honestly doubt it'll be the ecu. Considering the ecu is inside the cabin. i don't think water would've gotten it damaged from the water. but who knows. hopefully its just wiring.

PseudoK

if its either part your probably going to want to buy it secondhand, because through the dealer, its going to be insane..

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

did you try giving it some throttle when starting, it sounds like its trying to start. It could even just be the maf seeing as its right on top and doesn't like to get wet. are you getting any codes on the dash after cranking.
tell tale sign for a bad ecu is not getting the proper check engine light sequence.

with the key in and moved over one click all the lights should come on for a second or 2 including the CEL, If it does not illuminate that is not a good sign either the ecu or bad bulb.
after it illuminates for a second or 2, it should go away or stay solid.
at that point you jumper the pins regardless of whether its lit or not lit, and when you jump it it will light up, and then blink slowly if there are no codes, and faster if there are codes.
If at this point the CEL is not blinking at all and is just solid or doesn't change, or not illuminated at all, that means there is a possible issue with the ecu as the ecu is not responding properly.

I would also check the fuses in the kick panel by the driver side foot, its possible you blew an important one when washing and people always check the ones in the engine bay and forget about the fuses inside the car.

also make sure they check the timing.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

ali sc3, i did check all the fuses in the kick panel. at least the simple fuses that you can just put a test light to.
Toyota just called and they said that the ignition fuse is not getting any power. they said it connects to the ecu and the ignition switch. but they don't know why its not getting power. so they're charging me an extra 125 from the initial 125 for more diagnosis as to why it's not getting power.

estomax

iTrader: (2)

ill bet its one of the fusible links. hope toyota finds out soon.. i would think they have the wiring diagrams to figure this out fairly easily.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

would it be unwise or just not smart to take out the fusible link and put a in line fuse in place of the link?

estomax

iTrader: (2)

you just have to replace the fusible link. i was helping a friend with his ae86 who had a similar problem, car wouldnt start after changing stereo (he didn't unhook battery when doing it). no fuel and no spark.. took me a while too because fusible links appear ok but can be burnt out usually, they dont pop like fuses do. gotta take a multimeter to them. they cost 4$ or so.

sc300max

iTrader: (3)

If you didn't have power ( (+) assuming that dizzy uses positive and negative .. i think it does) at the distributor.. why didn't you try giving it positive and seeing if it cranks.. If the dizzy has a blue and red wire ( i think its that one) it should have positive if it doesn't just test it out. If it cranks follow the wire to the inside of the car and give it ignition power with a fusible link.

Just an idea.

Joey-E

iTrader: (1)

I bet this is something small your overlooking. Never power wash your engine with a SC. Degreaser and a rag should be enough.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm. Who knows? Cause a lot of my connectors if not all of them are broken. They'll stay in place, but there is nothing to secure them in place. They just pull off. So maybe when I washed my engine with the water hose, not pressure washer joey-e, one of the connectors came off. But my guess is it would be towards the rear of the engine. I didn't see anything up front. Or maybe somehow a short was caused that could the fusible link to melt. I don't know. But I did learn my lesson. No more water to the engine.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

alright guys. this is where i really really need help. i got a call back from toyota and they said its the ignition relay on the kicker panel that isnt getting power. i got a part number and priced for 280.00 for the part. maybe, just maybe, can somebody check out a spare junction block and take it apart and see if it is repairable inside. or am i screwed and have to buy a new one. the thing that scares me is buying a new one, installing it, and having the junction block go out again because something had to have caused the ignition relay to not get power. but so far toyota said they found everything to be ok. they said all the wires looked good and nothing LOOKED shorted. but that water couldve potentially shorted a wire and caused that to happen.
part number is 8267024080.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

unwise and the fuse isn't the issue if its not blown, then the problem is that there is no power to the fuse.

this is the correct thing to do is to replace it.

a very bad idea, there is no positive or negative on the distributor, this is a sure fire way to destroy a good distributor. the distributor has 3 magnets inside them, and a wheel that looks like a gear with teeth. the magnets act as variable reluctors, and when a conductive metal passes by it (the teeth on the gear), it creates a disturbance in the magnetic field around the magnet, and this in turn creates current the the ecu can sense on a very small signal level.
so there are 3 sensors, each one has one output, and the 4th wire is actually a ground.
There is no power in, and appyling battery voltage to any one of the sensors is a very very bad idea. they do not require a power input to generate their signals, aren't magnets neat?

a member just had this problem not too long ago I think they were doing ignition work or something and it shorted out, and go you just change the relay and fuse out, it shouldn't cost very much. probably don't have to replace the entire junction box, and I think the relay is in the engine bay and the fuse is in the kicker panel, but I could have it backwards. It's either the fuse or the relay is bad generally speaking. what happens is the water touched something on the ignition circuit and shorted one of them out. now that the water is gone is shouldn't happen again when you fix it unless you decide to wash it again or the water is still there. as to whether you want to get it back and try and fix it yourself or let them just replace stuff, thats gonna be your call. I thought you checked for 12v at the coil and ignitor. If the ignition circuit is not getting power there shouldn't be power there but who really knows whats going on sometimes even the dealers don't call the parts by the right name.