low idle and no ac, 1jz vvti
#1
Pole Position
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low idle and no ac, 1jz vvti
OK so I have 2 issues one my ac use to work, as soon as I did the swap it stopped working, but as of right now I have it on a toggle switch sending 12v from the battery to the blue wire on the compressor. Both the cold and hot side are at the correct psi. I've read as soon as you do a 1jz swap that this would occur. The motor is a 1jz vvti out of a late model soarer.
My second issue is that when its hot outside my car tends to have a low idle after driving for a few min, and randomly stalls out. My only guess could be the solder from my 12v mod not holding up, maf sensor is going bad, IAC or iacv is starting to go bad, I don't know.
Any help would be appreciated, I just got my windows tinted today and don't want to go under the hood to flip a switch to get my ac to come on thanks guys
My second issue is that when its hot outside my car tends to have a low idle after driving for a few min, and randomly stalls out. My only guess could be the solder from my 12v mod not holding up, maf sensor is going bad, IAC or iacv is starting to go bad, I don't know.
Any help would be appreciated, I just got my windows tinted today and don't want to go under the hood to flip a switch to get my ac to come on thanks guys
#2
1JZ Single SC400
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What management system are you using?
If you are on the AEM V1 or V2, lmk I can post on what to do exactly.
I say your issue is the IACV, or TPS sensor needs to be adjusted. Also clean the filter inside the IACV. Start small then go big.
If you are on the AEM V1 or V2, lmk I can post on what to do exactly.
I say your issue is the IACV, or TPS sensor needs to be adjusted. Also clean the filter inside the IACV. Start small then go big.
#5
Lexus Test Driver
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What engine did your car come out of? If the a/c is wired just like stock to the new ecu, try using a little relay like folks do with aristo swaps and see if that works. That's what I'd do if I had no diagrams.
I've personally had those same idle symptoms, but not corresponding with temp, but boost. Unplugged the IACV, runs perfect. But since you say it only happens when it's hot outside, I would check out the MAF since the IAT is inside it, and it reads close to ambient temp at all time based on what I've seen through logs. Another thing is the ecu coolant temp sensor, the two wire one, on the water neck. It also modifies trims with temp. Since your problem corresponds with temp, I'd start with the temp modifiers.
I've personally had those same idle symptoms, but not corresponding with temp, but boost. Unplugged the IACV, runs perfect. But since you say it only happens when it's hot outside, I would check out the MAF since the IAT is inside it, and it reads close to ambient temp at all time based on what I've seen through logs. Another thing is the ecu coolant temp sensor, the two wire one, on the water neck. It also modifies trims with temp. Since your problem corresponds with temp, I'd start with the temp modifiers.
Last edited by Vrank; 05-18-13 at 07:27 AM.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
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Yes, these engines for the most part don't need the iacv whatsoever. Maybe in cold climates you might have to manually use your foot to fire it, but yeah, runs fine. Iacv is for idle not driving. So have you tried the aristo swap a/c relay thing? I'm gonna have to rebuild my a/c system in my daily in the next month and figured if it didn't work by wiring it in correctly nthat the relay trick would take care of it. Should have put my multimeter on the soarer ecu and compared it with my jzx100 one when I had it.
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