R154 Slave bleeding problems
R154 Slave bleeding problems
I'm really needing some help here you guys, maybe someone can offer a little insight on something I hope i'm just blatantly missing.
My 1JZ swap is all but complete. Last night I started bleeding the clutch system so I could get this thing on the road and ran into issues. It took forever to get fluid down to the slave cylinder, but once we got it, it didn't take long to have the air out of the system. The problem is that is only actuating about 1mm. I've bled tons of hydraulic systems before, but i'm not sure if there is a different proceedure for a pull type. The slave still works the same way, so i cant see why this would matter.
Any suggestions? Do you guys think my slave cylinder is bad?
My 1JZ swap is all but complete. Last night I started bleeding the clutch system so I could get this thing on the road and ran into issues. It took forever to get fluid down to the slave cylinder, but once we got it, it didn't take long to have the air out of the system. The problem is that is only actuating about 1mm. I've bled tons of hydraulic systems before, but i'm not sure if there is a different proceedure for a pull type. The slave still works the same way, so i cant see why this would matter.
Any suggestions? Do you guys think my slave cylinder is bad?
The car was always a manual transmission, I just went from W58 to R154.
I think I have a lot of it figured out now. I replaced the master cylinder and it built pressure a lot better. What i'm about to say is KEY for a lot of people that may be having similar pedal return issues.
There is a plastic bushing that goes on the pedal that sits between the pedal and the master cylinder rod. if you've been having squeak problems, some lubricants will irritate and destroy this plastic. When doing a Clutch master cylinder replacement, REPLACE THE FOLLOWING PARTS.
90468-16142 CLIP
90386-08010 BUSHING
90206-08001 WASHER
31353-14010 PIN
These are cheap - as in less than $10 cheap. All parts should be easily attainable from Lexus or Toyota. I got them from Toyota. This is the pin that holds the master to the pedal, its wave washer that you will probably lose when you pull it, the bushing, and a replacement clip that holds it all together. I don't have these parts here yet, but I can say with confidence after looking at it all and paying close attention to how the pedal physically moves, replacing these parts will firm up your pedal and quiet it down.
hope this helps anyone looking for some help.
I think I have a lot of it figured out now. I replaced the master cylinder and it built pressure a lot better. What i'm about to say is KEY for a lot of people that may be having similar pedal return issues.
There is a plastic bushing that goes on the pedal that sits between the pedal and the master cylinder rod. if you've been having squeak problems, some lubricants will irritate and destroy this plastic. When doing a Clutch master cylinder replacement, REPLACE THE FOLLOWING PARTS.
90468-16142 CLIP
90386-08010 BUSHING
90206-08001 WASHER
31353-14010 PIN
These are cheap - as in less than $10 cheap. All parts should be easily attainable from Lexus or Toyota. I got them from Toyota. This is the pin that holds the master to the pedal, its wave washer that you will probably lose when you pull it, the bushing, and a replacement clip that holds it all together. I don't have these parts here yet, but I can say with confidence after looking at it all and paying close attention to how the pedal physically moves, replacing these parts will firm up your pedal and quiet it down.
hope this helps anyone looking for some help.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ummagawd
SC - 1st Gen (1992-2000)
29
Jan 9, 2006 04:39 PM
