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downpipe question

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Old 04-11-12, 04:24 PM
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INTIMAZY
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In NY there is only a "visual" inspection for OBD1 cars up to 95. This rule applies as of January 1st, 2011.
Meaning, no cats needed. Modders rejoice.

OBD2 are still plug in scan so you can get away with running catless if you simulate a cat or run non-foulers.
Old 04-11-12, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by INTIMAZY
OBD2 are still plug in scan so you can get away with running catless if you simulate a cat or run non-foulers.
since i have a 97.. how do you do this?

and if i still have the front cat, why do i need the second one?

Last edited by hihopes; 04-11-12 at 11:07 PM.
Old 04-12-12, 05:48 AM
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You don't REALLY need either cat. You just need to fool your OBD2 car into thinking you do have cats.
Easiest way (and the way that's worked for me) is using drilled out spark plug non-foulers. Google it.

The more expensive and more time consuming option is an O2 simulator like this.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oxy...sor_simulator/
Ones similar to this can be found online for ~$30-$50.
Old 04-12-12, 10:52 AM
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ehh idk if i wanna put together a non fouler or o2 simulator.

so if the first cat is still in tact with o2 sensors working correctly, can the second one be deleted without problems inspection-wise and without a CEL?
Old 04-12-12, 12:39 PM
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Like I said, visual-inspection-wise having NO cats wouldn't cause a problem in the lazy state of NY. I have 3 cars currently catless (2 of which are OBD2 cars). Because no shop actually has taken the time to look, I have never failed inspection.

I don't remember which cat has the O2 sensors surrounding it. If the lower cat is the one with an O2 before and and O2 after it, then you will not pass unless you use a non-fouler.

The general principle is this; the downstream sensor needs to "see" less emissions than the first in order to not throw a code. If you do this via non-fouler, simulator, or putting a cat in does not matter.

As a warning, depending on the hiflow cat, you can still fail inspection. I had a pair of highflow Carsound (Magnaflow 49 state legal) cats a few years back that did not fail on my 350Z. No CEL at any point. A few months ago I sold my setup to a friend with a G35 and he needed to put non-foulers downstream of his cats to pass emissions. For whatever reason, what my ECU allowed to pass, ended up as a CEL on his car.

The only foolproof 100% way to pass is OEM cats. Everything besides that has some level of risk related to it.
Old 04-12-12, 05:45 PM
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alright so im thinking my best choice right now is to just get a hi flow cat and just get a custom made 3" midpipe. so i wont have to run non foulers or simulators.
being as i plan on going turbo in the future, is this a logical plan, where i wouldnt have to change anything in the future, when i do turbo my car?
Old 04-12-12, 08:17 PM
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Ideally, turbo cars spool faster and make more power overall with a full straight through exhaust.

That being said, a modern high flow cat really won't limit you unless you are dying to squeeze every last horsepower out of the turbo. On modern cars even OEM cats only hold back a couple of horsepower.
Old 04-12-12, 08:34 PM
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Yeah im not stressed on trying to make my car the fastest out there as im dailying it and not tracking it or anything like that.

Thanks, i just ordered a cat, gunna wait for that and my catback to get here.
What do you think is a reasonable price for a shop to make that 3" midpipe? Just so i know how much is too much.
Old 04-13-12, 06:03 AM
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i would say 300 or 400$ tops since they will provide the piping.. it sucks... if i were you, id look for a guy who welds on the side and has some skills to do it (local forum or friends)
Old 04-13-12, 06:12 AM
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Wow that is a lot. But yeah ill keep a look out for people to help me out with that.
Thanks a lot guys
Old 04-13-12, 06:23 AM
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yeah, when i got quoted, they told me the bolts are super rusted and it would require x amount of hours to remove alone, and when a removal takes hours, they charge like crazy. i got a guy i know to do my whole setup from the headers to the tips custom 3in ss piping
Old 04-13-12, 06:43 AM
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Yeah they try to get you every way possible. Especially when youre just some kid to them
Old 04-13-12, 10:33 AM
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Removal should consist of about 15 minutes of sawzall action. The two bolts that would have to be removed at the midpipe/header junction could be torched off in about 30 seconds if they are rusted too badly. The midpipe is a very simple build and should take no more than an hour plus piping. If anyone charges you more than $200 start to finish you are getting ripped.
Old 04-13-12, 11:47 AM
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Sweet, im liking $200 better than 3 or 4 haha.

Thanks a bunch!
Old 04-13-12, 04:33 PM
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Keep in mind what type of steel you want to use. Mild is a much cheaper starting material. Depending on how fancy the shop is, they could have a few choices of stainless to choose from. I wouldn't be shocked if you got quoted $600 for a really nice setup.

As someone mentioned, getting a welder to do it on the side for you is easily the cheapest option.


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