2jznosht

threw a rod on a bone stock 2jzge...Long story short the car ran like a dream as of thursday last week and all weekend up till it was time to drive 700 miles. Then on the freeway, kablam, my nice smooth quiet ride is now turbulent and it sounds like someone rattling screws in a folgers can in my engine bay. No leaking fluids so im guessing the block is the actual indestructible part.

Anyway, tomorrow its time to see just how much carnage is inside. I thing at this point I may as well make it a project because keeping it stock is expensive and fairly unreliable and knowing my luck the motor (which locked up) is likely toast. Now I need advice.

Is there any dis advantage to to going na-t as opposed to 1jz or 2jz gte swapping for someone who just wants 300-350rwhp? I mean it makes the most sense since the block crank and rods are the same in both 2j's?

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I would go NA-T if I was you. But do not skimp out on the engine management system. It does however come down to your preference and budget in the end.

trufanatic

the funny thing is, when i read the title of the thread this was the first thing that went thru my mind. all a 2j needs is oil, doesnt even have to be good oil and it will almost run forever.

Go NA-T and do an AEM EMS, no piggy backs and slowly build and climb in power.

g4ebguy90

Wow.... Did you check your oil lol before you went on this trip. Spun bearings happen for a reason. A engine can even run with no oil for a bit cause the oil still lubricates the bearings. But man.

2jznosht

Yeah the oil was the first thing I thought of...I figured since I changed it before the trip I might have left thr drain plug loose of something. Oil was full and still clean.

Also aside from price(less than a 2jz-gte) what other perks are there for going 1jz?

2jznosht

Couple more things...is there anyone currently making a supercharger for the 2jz and would porting and polishing the head yield decent gain?

trufanatic

a 1jz vs a NA-T, lol there are no perks, 2j all the way. The NA Head flows amazingly more than the jz engines. You can pick up a good 2j na block in a junk yard for 200-300, get a TT head gaskets, throw some GTE pistons in but its really not needed and you have a long block that will smile at 600whp and ask for more. Also keep in mind that a 2j makes the power sooner and makes more torque vs a 1j.

supercharging a 2j is an absolute waste of money.

poorsupra

iTrader: (11)

no on the supercharger GE <3's turbo. and def the motor was probably starved of oil. and lastely i would get a stock ge bottom end. i know of 3 at my local yard RIGHT now! TT HG and youre golden.

g4ebguy90

Maybe it was one of things like one in a million, I don't even hear of boosted Sc300's spinning bearings. But the bottem end is a simple 2 bolt main design. Which I thought was odd, but hey it works.

2jznosht

Im guessing it was oil starved and weakend by the previous owners...at any rate I found today I spun a bearing. How hard is re-doing the bottom end of a car? Iv'e never done it and for the price of someone else doing it at a shop I could buy another sc

Dms3603

I dont want to sound anti na-t but the conclusion i came to in the end was that the amount of money you would spend to properly na-t a car you could do a stock 1j or gte swap. now granted you would still be limited to bhp you would still have a properly running gte. not to mention no distributor problems, gte internals, and no over head intake. ranted you can rid yourself of all these problems but thats more money= more headaches. Just my input. Na-t is not worth it in my opinion because its only cheap when its not done properly.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I have to disagree with the benefits of having the 2jz over the 1jz. I am almost finished with my 1jz swap and i did alot of research. They both are great motors and both have the potential to reach huge power goals, if done correctly.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Here's the deal.

You blew up a 2jz, congrats by the way.

Since it's blown, and I'm a GTE advocate personally, put a good un-ground crank back in it, stock rods, some 8.5:1 pistons, and do the NA-T.

The experience, and knowledge of building an engine from the ground up will be useful in any car.

Plus, if anything ever goes wrong you know just how to get to the problem with 100% confidence.

I somehow vote, Mild Built NA-T, who knew!?

2jznosht

Block does need machine work...time to source a ge short block, or a boosted motor

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Follow the OEM rebuild procedure exactly:

SC300 FSM

https://rapidshare.com/#!download|38...|83438|R~0|0|0

Then whatever piston you choose, follow their recommendation on ring gap, make the second ring .002" tighter, and assemble after checking bearing clearance with plasti-guage with a good Torque wrench.

It's not hard at all, the Machine shop does most of the work.

Don't grind your crank down and use oversized bearings if its wrecked. The crank is hardened from the factory and grinding will make it weaker.

Use a stock crank, and standard size bearings.

Don't be scared!