WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

It is not official yet but it seems likely I will be replacing the head gasket on our 1993 SC300 (182,000 miles to date). What else should be done as long as I have her torn apart?

On the third radiator, third timing belt, second water pump. To the best of my knowledge, I have kept up with all repairs and preventive maintenance.

Kind regards,
Wade

TougeSC3

iTrader: (2)

Valve cover gaskets and washer seals, cam seals, check the oil pump, and front main seal.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I'd be interested to hear this out too. My HG is on it's last legs and I need to replace it ASAP. The timing belt and water pump were done at 88,000. It has 140 now.

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

I bought the Eristic brand 93 to 97 3.0 L TOYOTA DOHC HEAD GASKET SET for the 2JZGE. It contains:
•Steel head gasket
•Intake manifold gasket
•Exhaust manifold gasket
•Valve cover gasket
•Viton valve stem seals
•Camshaft front seals and other small gaskets, seals, and O-rings.

I anticipate using all of the contents. I know there is tremendous debate about whether to use only OEM head gaskets and don't mean to reignite that discussion.

I did a front seal when I did the latest timing belt but I will have to determine whether that was the front main seal or not.

The oil pump is a GREAT suggestion. Thank you.

Anything else?

nismo2trd

new head bolts

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

ISFFUN, I did the timing belt for the first time a lot later in life, maybe 140k, but I replaced it at 160k because I had to go in to replace the water pump (someone did not read the forum posts, took the car to a mechanic, and never read or heard it would be a good idea to do the front main seal and water pump any time one does the timing belt, and vice versa.)

It turms out it was probably something that rhymes with rapidity rather than a blown head gasket. In any case, I ordered a full set of gaskets and o-rings, etc. but decided to test the oil pressure with an inline gauge before committing to a new oil pump. The Lexus SC300's oil pumps seem to last a very long time. You could do this before starting the disassembly for the Head Gasket.

As long as I was at it, I cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner, cleaned the throttle body with Gumout TB cleaner, serviced the K&N filter, tested the ignition wires, cleaned the distributor cap and rotor, replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil, replaced the lower radiator hose, replaced the distributor o-ring and generally made a day of it.

nismo2trd - I read the new head bolts were not much of a priority if one is naturally aspirated. Do you think it is just a good idea since these are the originals? Where would you source them?

nismo2trd

well in my case, my HG blew because i overheated the engine (2jz-GE motor), i decked the head and slapped it back together and used the same "head bolts." The next day i drove it out to the drift event. my head "bolts" backed out. so all im suggesting just a set of ARP head studs wouldn't hurt.

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

The ARP 203-4702 head stud kit seems to be the way to go. Summit seemed as good as anyone and I trust them. (For the cheaper head stud alternatives, I considered Mizumo at $40, Fel Pro at $60 and Beck/Arnley at $71.)

I am trying to close either of a couple of deals for a rebuilt head rather than shipping mine out for work. Otherwise, I need a trusted rebuilder in So. Cal. I would prefer someone in San Diego. Do you have any suggestions?

Also, oil pumps seem to come in a $100 aftermarket flavor and a $200 OEM supreme flavor. Any less expensive alternatives? What do you think about a used pump off a 99k motor?

Thanks again for your comments and suggestions.

sj408

iTrader: (6)

Oil pump is something i wouldnt skimp on, headstuds the lowest i would personally go is fel-pro

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Why not ARP 203-5405 ?

Are the factory ones head BOLTS or STUDS?

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Does anything need to be done to release the fuel rail pressure?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Factory is head bolts.

remove the gas cap it will help alot.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Hmm, I think I saw another P/N on ARPs site for the head stud/bolt things. In their catalog there's no P/N in the bolt section for the 2JZ- only the 7MGE.

Can anyone who's put ARP anything in the engine chime in? What P/N did you use?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

arp are heads studs but the factory bone srock engine comes with headbolts.

lfrers

iTrader: (9)

If you EVER plan on going NAT do a GTE HG and ARP now. Lot of work to do again later.
And yea front oil seals, timing belt tensioner, distrib O-Ring, water pump, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, valve cover seal kit, etc
And put on a new radiator cap if yours looks the least bit old.