What clutch for NA-T W58?
08-25-11, 02:25 PM
#16
Since I have been building 4g63's for around a decade before this, I would say I have a pretty good experience with crankwalk. And if you've owned a DSM You know, this is a huge understatement.
The fact of the matter is this:
-Yes push, or pull a super heavy pressure plate can cause stress on the thrust bearing.
-The 7-bolt(Most likely to CW)4g63's inherent thrust-bearing/ main cap design is what causes it to fail, but extremely stiff (2600-3200lbs) pressure plates can agitate this and speed up the process.
-The 4g63 has 5 Main caps.
-The JZ inline 6 has 7 Main Caps, it's going to take a lot more than 2600lbs which is considered fairly "Xtreme" from ACT to make them move.
-Most good DSM clutches use a 2600lbs PP, and a sprung organic disk. This combination has gone 9's/10's in Street/Race cars.
-The JZ crowd seems to do the opposite. Pucked disks with stockish pressure plates.
This is the best recommendation in here. Which is similar to my own.
Pucked disk/Soft Pressure Plate < Organic sprung Disk/Medium Pressure Plate.
The fact of the matter is this:
-Yes push, or pull a super heavy pressure plate can cause stress on the thrust bearing.
-The 7-bolt(Most likely to CW)4g63's inherent thrust-bearing/ main cap design is what causes it to fail, but extremely stiff (2600-3200lbs) pressure plates can agitate this and speed up the process.
-The 4g63 has 5 Main caps.
-The JZ inline 6 has 7 Main Caps, it's going to take a lot more than 2600lbs which is considered fairly "Xtreme" from ACT to make them move.
-Most good DSM clutches use a 2600lbs PP, and a sprung organic disk. This combination has gone 9's/10's in Street/Race cars.
-The JZ crowd seems to do the opposite. Pucked disks with stockish pressure plates.
Originally Posted by TURBO819 View Post
In an attempt to stay in the limits of the W58. I chose to use the RPS Max Clutch with the OEM disc for the W58
Taken from MVP Motorsports.com
"This package includes the RPS Max Pressure Plate and the RPS Street Disc. It is a full face organic disc that is extremely slippable and the most friendly disc you could ever put in your Supra.
This clutch kit can hold up to 440 foot pounds of torque & is 60% stiffer than stock. This clutch is the most streetable clutch you can buy and will hold 400+ RWHP."
In an attempt to stay in the limits of the W58. I chose to use the RPS Max Clutch with the OEM disc for the W58
Taken from MVP Motorsports.com
"This package includes the RPS Max Pressure Plate and the RPS Street Disc. It is a full face organic disc that is extremely slippable and the most friendly disc you could ever put in your Supra.
This clutch kit can hold up to 440 foot pounds of torque & is 60% stiffer than stock. This clutch is the most streetable clutch you can buy and will hold 400+ RWHP."
Pucked disk/Soft Pressure Plate < Organic sprung Disk/Medium Pressure Plate.
08-25-11, 02:59 PM
#17
Yes, medium PP is fine. HD PP with a street disk is what a few of us recommend. RPS blue or "Xtreme" COULD be bad, depending on some variables like driving style, shift RPM, oil viscosity, bearing clearance, oil pressure, etc. Most, if not all crankwalk victims were running either an Xtreme PP or RPS Blue.
08-26-11, 04:11 AM
#21
It's not that one thrust bearing that keeps the whole crank in place, is it?
The more bearing surface, and in this case the more crank length then a 4-cyl, the more clamping force you have on the crank. This alone makes it less likely to move, then troublesome 4g63's with less caps, and less crank surface area.
If it was going to move with all that surface area, you can bet your *** that a pucked clutch will shock the crank enough on engagement to where it will want to.
How did the DSMers overcome crankwalk?
Main bearing cap alignment dowels (To keep them from side-loading and moving in general), precise machining and assembly, and twin disk clutches with sprung organic disks.
Believe me, when you mess with a problematic engine like a 4g63 that constantly CW's, you (The community) learn real quick how to fix it.
JZ's simply do not have such a design flaw, and as such I am completely blaming the Pucked setups for any CW they got.
I think I'm pretty much finished in here. Can't stop a bandwagon!
08-27-11, 09:33 AM
#27
LOL! Man, as long as you have had that clutch, I think it would probably already have walked if its gonna. I think it needs to be the perfect storm to crankwalk. Like low oil pressure, incorrect bearing clearances, high RPM shifts, heavy PP etc. Obviously JZs aren't crankwalking left and right, so though there is a chance, it is not highly likely. I am just saying that if you can support the power you make with less clutch, why overkill it?
I don't believe for one second that puck disks cause crankwalk. 95% of manual JZs run puck clutches. The ones that walk are always running heavy PPs, and a certain percentage of those were still using a clutch switch.
I don't believe for one second that puck disks cause crankwalk. 95% of manual JZs run puck clutches. The ones that walk are always running heavy PPs, and a certain percentage of those were still using a clutch switch.
09-13-13, 09:59 PM
#28
Lexus Test Driver
bringing back an old thread!
So, I have my turbo kit for my 97 5spd, and need the best clutch and flywheel. I'm shooting for about 330 whp.
I'm thinking of getting this combo: SPEC stage 2+ clutch kit and SPEC aluminum flywheel. Good or no good, what do you guys say? I can get both brand new shipped to me for $660
Details: "The SPEC Stage 2 PLUS Clutch Kit features a multi-friction disc in a full faced configuration with carbon semi-metallic on one side and Kevlar on the other. Bridging the gap between stage 2 and stage 3, the 2+ offers drivability and engagement quality characteristic of the stage 2, but with a 15-20% higher torque capacity. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, autocross, road racing, pulling, rallye and drift."
So, I have my turbo kit for my 97 5spd, and need the best clutch and flywheel. I'm shooting for about 330 whp.
I'm thinking of getting this combo: SPEC stage 2+ clutch kit and SPEC aluminum flywheel. Good or no good, what do you guys say? I can get both brand new shipped to me for $660
Details: "The SPEC Stage 2 PLUS Clutch Kit features a multi-friction disc in a full faced configuration with carbon semi-metallic on one side and Kevlar on the other. Bridging the gap between stage 2 and stage 3, the 2+ offers drivability and engagement quality characteristic of the stage 2, but with a 15-20% higher torque capacity. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, autocross, road racing, pulling, rallye and drift."
09-14-13, 04:30 PM
#30
I would not recommend a spec clutch at all. These days, a lot of people are running stock modified southbend clutches. You can use a street style disk and keep the pp light while still supporting lots of power. I would look into a southbend first and go from there.