new cams dont require new springs?
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new cams dont require new springs?
Hey I need this cleared up. Drift motion sells Brian crower cams for the ge but in their ad description they say new valve springs are not required although I have read differently on here.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-bc0311.php
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-bc0312.php
I have also read that only exhaust cam gears can be used on ge engines because of the distributor. Or maybe it was intake cam. But drift motion sells both intake and exhaust?
Someone set me straight on this please.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-bc0311.php
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-bc0312.php
I have also read that only exhaust cam gears can be used on ge engines because of the distributor. Or maybe it was intake cam. But drift motion sells both intake and exhaust?
Someone set me straight on this please.
#2
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the cams that bc sells is for vvti motor.. ttc used to market a cam made by web cams which r custom regrinds which is what i have at 268 duration high lift as far as springs it IS recc to change oem springs for aftermarket as to realize full benefit of cams you should be on standalone so you can move rev limit up between 7600-8000 rpm ( im at 8k) as cams will shift power curve to the right..you dont want to risk valve float with aged stock springs . some will say not to worry but its your $$$ and engine and i prefer to err on the side of caution and prevention
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Thanks for the reply. So if I went with ttc cams but didn't want to increase rev limited stock springs would be ok right? Would I have better low end power or does " as cams shift power curve to the right" means better top end.
Also what would you say are the required supporting upgrades? Just springs or springs, retainers and valves?
Also what would you say are the required supporting upgrades? Just springs or springs, retainers and valves?
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using cams without increasing revv limit is kinda pointless imo.. you dont realize gains down low but gains start (operative word is START) to come on mid to upper 5k to low 6k (depending on turbo and tune) but real full realized gains is in upper rpm bands as my dyno sheet shows ( which even my tuner said was uncommon for a 2j) that at 7800 my hp kept climbing as opposed to falling
springs and retainers are imo recc and should be used to protect against valve float and is a perfect time to change valve stem seals ( i used the ferrara viton based seals that offer better heat resis as compared to oem) as well as get the valves themselves as well as stems cleaned of carbon and your seats recut for back to factory sealing..trust me makes a huge difference
bottom line power is made in the head not block , block supports power made in head....give the cams the air it needs and fuel to support the air and you got good clean power
springs and retainers are imo recc and should be used to protect against valve float and is a perfect time to change valve stem seals ( i used the ferrara viton based seals that offer better heat resis as compared to oem) as well as get the valves themselves as well as stems cleaned of carbon and your seats recut for back to factory sealing..trust me makes a huge difference
bottom line power is made in the head not block , block supports power made in head....give the cams the air it needs and fuel to support the air and you got good clean power
#5
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using cams without increasing revv limit is kinda pointless imo.. you dont realize gains down low but gains start (operative word is START) to come on mid to upper 5k to low 6k (depending on turbo and tune) but real full realized gains is in upper rpm bands as my dyno sheet shows ( which even my tuner said was uncommon for a 2j) that at 7800 my hp kept climbing as opposed to falling
springs and retainers are imo recc and should be used to protect against valve float and is a perfect time to change valve stem seals ( i used the ferrara viton based seals that offer better heat resis as compared to oem) as well as get the valves themselves as well as stems cleaned of carbon and your seats recut for back to factory sealing..trust me makes a huge difference
bottom line power is made in the head not block , block supports power made in head....give the cams the air it needs and fuel to support the air and you got good clean power
springs and retainers are imo recc and should be used to protect against valve float and is a perfect time to change valve stem seals ( i used the ferrara viton based seals that offer better heat resis as compared to oem) as well as get the valves themselves as well as stems cleaned of carbon and your seats recut for back to factory sealing..trust me makes a huge difference
bottom line power is made in the head not block , block supports power made in head....give the cams the air it needs and fuel to support the air and you got good clean power
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I believe they do.
Thanks for the clear up. I'm going turbo and I'm putting a turbo with pte6265 and I'm going to put a 1.3mm hg.
My goals right now is only 400rwhp and I was thinking my boost will hit low 4k and was looking for an upgrade for lower end power.
I was thinking for the time being is a hg really necessary for 400rwhp or oh think I can reach that safely without?
Thanks for the clear up. I'm going turbo and I'm putting a turbo with pte6265 and I'm going to put a 1.3mm hg.
My goals right now is only 400rwhp and I was thinking my boost will hit low 4k and was looking for an upgrade for lower end power.
I was thinking for the time being is a hg really necessary for 400rwhp or oh think I can reach that safely without?
#7
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I believe they do.
Thanks for the clear up. I'm going turbo and I'm putting a turbo with pte6265 and I'm going to put a 1.3mm hg.
My goals right now is only 400rwhp and I was thinking my boost will hit low 4k and was looking for an upgrade for lower end power.
I was thinking for the time being is a hg really necessary for 400rwhp or oh think I can reach that safely without?
Thanks for the clear up. I'm going turbo and I'm putting a turbo with pte6265 and I'm going to put a 1.3mm hg.
My goals right now is only 400rwhp and I was thinking my boost will hit low 4k and was looking for an upgrade for lower end power.
I was thinking for the time being is a hg really necessary for 400rwhp or oh think I can reach that safely without?
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using cams without increasing revv limit is inda pointless imo.. you dont realize gains down low but gains start (operative word is START) to come on mid to upper 5k to low 6k (depending on turbo and tune) but real full realized gains is in upper rpm bands as my dyno sheet shows ( which even my tuner said was uncommon for a 2j) that at 7800 my hp kept climbing as opposed to falling
springs and retainers are imo recc and should be used to protect against valve float and is a perfect time to change valve stem seals ( i used the ferrara viton based seals that offer better heat resis as compared to oem) as well as get the valves themselves as well as stems cleaned of carbon and your seats recut for back to factory sealing..trust me makes a huge difference
bottom line power is made in the head not block , block supports power made in head....give the cams the air it needs and fuel to support the air and you got good clean power
springs and retainers are imo recc and should be used to protect against valve float and is a perfect time to change valve stem seals ( i used the ferrara viton based seals that offer better heat resis as compared to oem) as well as get the valves themselves as well as stems cleaned of carbon and your seats recut for back to factory sealing..trust me makes a huge difference
bottom line power is made in the head not block , block supports power made in head....give the cams the air it needs and fuel to support the air and you got good clean power
http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/ttc-performance-2jzge-268-2268.html
Link to tc cams
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Tuning is key with the stock HG compression ratio. You'll have to make sure your intercooler will suppress heat properly, and keep knock down. The stocker should support 400whp but tuning might be more of a challenge and is definitely more crucial. The TT HG will allow for a a larger margin of error in the tune and allow for more boost to be used as well but probably isn't absolutely necessary for 400whp.
#10
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Bottom line power is made in the head but you just said that with upgraded cams power is seen top end. Did you mix up the last sentence?
http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/tt...-268-2268.html
Link to tc cams
http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/tt...-268-2268.html
Link to tc cams
#11
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im at about 9:5:1 ish compression and at 600 rwhp @19psi pure 93 oct saw zero knock.. my next fresh ge bottomend will be a semi built ( only for more longevity) will be close to 10:0:1 compression...i have a friend who had been on a unopened ge setup for well over 5 yrs on a t66 and @ 15ish psi made 440 rwhp easily but uses a full aem like myself
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400 rwhp heck even 500rwhp can be achieved safely on stock compression and a full standalone .. please re think using emanage or any other piggyback for stock ge ecu has no look up maps for positive pressure for proper fueling and timing ..save the money from hg swap and use that and go aem or haltech and get a a+++ tuner to tune you
im at about 9:5:1 ish compression and at 600 rwhp @19psi pure 93 oct saw zero knock.. my next fresh ge bottomend will be a semi built ( only for more longevity) will be close to 10:0:1 compression...i have a friend who had been on a unopened ge setup for well over 5 yrs on a t66 and @ 15ish psi made 440 rwhp easily but uses a full aem like myself
im at about 9:5:1 ish compression and at 600 rwhp @19psi pure 93 oct saw zero knock.. my next fresh ge bottomend will be a semi built ( only for more longevity) will be close to 10:0:1 compression...i have a friend who had been on a unopened ge setup for well over 5 yrs on a t66 and @ 15ish psi made 440 rwhp easily but uses a full aem like myself
Awesome. So I re read info on stock compression and HP limits and I will take your advice on not using a hg. although I don't.think funds will allow for Aem right now. If I have to wait an extra month or two I think I may.
#13
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lexforlife is 100% correct, if you wanna push the stock compression that far you need a standalone. it can be done, and it is quite a street machine. If you arent on standalone, forget about it and get the the TT headgasket. my advice grab an aem now, the difference in price between a emanage and aem is about the cost of changing your headgasket. you have to replace so many seals and normally do the waterpump and timing belt while you are in there so its not really cheap to change the headgasket either. spend the money on the ecu now, and do the headgasket later once 400hp seems boring to you (it will happen). the car will drive much better overall.
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Thanks Ali. I've been reading about the ultimate on clubna-t and yea I've decided to save up for Aem. I did however already buy a headgasket kit which comes with all the engine seals and o rings. From what I have been reading on club after the headgasket swap you really don't notice to lost of power with a 1.3mm hg. I may still throw it on just so when I am ready for more power it already in.
I will be getting a standalone no matter what though.
I will be getting a standalone no matter what though.
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