User1321989

iTrader: (1)

I wonder how many people who have changed their filter are hitting themselves in the head...LOL

aka paco

iTrader: (15)

I agree, on most cars those two things do help, but the location of our fuel filter is definetly not ideal for changing..

booga

iTrader: (1)

I am planning to follow this DIY.

Another thread in this forum was talking about this one and mentioned not finding the line to be crimped. Do you have another picture that might have a better angle to show where this is?

Is there risk of cracking that rubber hose?

sc4doubleO

I've changed 4 filters on the sc's years 92,94,95,96 They all have the rubber portion from factory. The other guy was looking for the hose in the wrong spot.

Intrazel

iTrader: (1)

This is a great DIY guide for all those people who burn themselves and dont understand why the fuel keeps flowing (tanks up high in the trunk, line and filter is down low).

I changed my fuel filter today, I believe it was the original filter (Denso) and the lines were almost seized. The trick to only loose a few drops is to pinch the line in two places both the lower line where you marked in the picture but also the other lower line on the drivers side, I pinched both lines and even with a full tank of gas only lost a few drops from the filter !!

I got a WIX filter from Oreillys $25 bucks !

mam

This is a good thread.

I too pinched the fuel outlet from the fuel tank, stopped the flow insta-matically.

The biggest issue is with the tube nuts, they would turn a few turns and then seize. I decided to take a risk and use brute force. I extended the flare wrench with a lever and kept the threads well oiled. I also used a large wrench of the fuel filter to keep it from twisting. It is easier if you keep the filter mounted on the vehicle, do not remove the M6 bolts until the tube nuts have been removed. You need that filter assembly to be as sturdy as possible while you work the tube nuts off.

The filter media was very dirty, fuel was filthy. I re-threaded the tube nuts and added anti-seize, new filter mounted easily.

over40driv

MAM, what size is that thread tap?

mam

over40driv, the DIE is a M14x1.5

and i just realized after careful thought and observation, that TOYOTA (denso?) had made a mistake in the manufacturing of these filter housings. take a look at the above filters and you will notice a difference in the machining for the threads. the NEW (current) filters are threaded all the way to the bottom, while the older filters are only partially threaded. So, in order to achieve a proper seal installers would have had to tighten the tube nuts into the unthreaded section, thereby stripping the bottom of the tube nut in order for it to seal onto the inverted flare.

Seriously, some good info in this thread... todays discovery should be added into the archives. Here are the detailed photos that prove this:

SEIDO

iTrader: (1)

How often should you change the fuel filter, and how do you know if you have to or not?
Is there a rule of thumb like oil e.g. (every 3k mi.)?

Intrazel

iTrader: (1)

It's not in the maintenance section of the manual but based on alot of experience with many cars, 50k intervals are safe, 80k if you wanna get cheap and lazy, and 100k if you like to push the limits.

SEIDO

iTrader: (1)

Is there any noticeable gain, once its done?

mam

yeah....

your car runs right

Dream36

Bought my car one month ago. It started with a stutter at driving speeds and more like a hiccup. When the weather got colder here, it started to bounce on the rpm's it red lights. So much it tossed the at around a bit, so I shift to neutral and wait. It goes from 1200-1800 when at peak of bounce and always below 500 on the down stroke. Sometimes it will slow te motor enough that it pauses the crank completely but only a second before it fires back up. Well first I changed the plug wires skipped plugs till I can get mod cash (didn't expect wires so much). Still an issue

So today I took on the fuel since it feels fuel related. I was 19* out today but I was in complete sunlight where there was no snow so yeah.

I unplugged fuel pump and cranked it over a few times. Kept the motor turning over while off a bit thanks to a heavy overrated battery. Then I found the rubber line and clamped it. I kept the bracket in place to help keep it straight during the intihhtening portions. Fluid got on me right away, yeah my right hand became worthless for about 20 minutes at some point. Anyway, I switched into a new one and got it all back together and poof she purrs.

Take for a ride and problem is back I will continue to search this gremlin

Dream36

I meant to say I lost about a cup of fuel maybe 2 cups at most.

Thanks for the write up

booga

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar problem with my car, and even worst my car would stall. Going downhill while the car was in neutral free wheeling and idle, the car would stall. But since the fuel filter and fuel pump was just replaced, the problem was not there.

I found the problem was with the idle control valve. I bought one far an SC300 that was being parted out, and swapped it. The problem was still there. I cleaned out the throttle body and the area where the idle control valve sits - the problem is gone.

The area where the idle control valve sits was very dirty, i suspect that the problem was there.

Be careful with the screws for the idle control valve, the metal used is very soft, and the angle to the screw head will cause it to strip.