6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

I will be performing a fuel pressure test soon because I feel Im lacking fuel when I accelerate full throttle. The car runs fine when its cold but as soon as it warms up, it starts to sputter when I gas it.

My question is, would it be OK to hook up the fuel pressure tester on the fuel regulator side(front of the fuel rail where the regulator is)? Would it be safe to perform it on that side?

The fitting for the tester would not fit on the fuel banjo bolt behind the fuel rail, it hits the firewall.

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

You have to do it before the regulator. That's the pressure you want to monitor. After the regulator is unused fuel being returned to the tank, there's no pressure on that side

As long as you put the gauge somewhere between the fuel pump and before the regulator you'll be fine

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

We were looking at it today and my nephew suggested that maybe we should test it at the regulator.

I dont see any way to test it unless I get another kit with a 90 degree bend fitting so it wont hit the firewall.

Have u ever performed a fuel pressure test on your 1JZ before?

frankdms

iTrader: (1)

Have you pulled a plug to see what is going on in the cyl?
Above is right. You need to check pressure at the rail inlet side.
If you "google" how to do a fuel pressure test you will find info on how to test your sys.

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

Follow that fuel line at the back of the fuel rail down to the bottom of the driver side firewall. There is a connection down there where the soft line turns into hard line coming from the fuel tank. Try to put your adapter in that fitting

frankdms

iTrader: (1)

If you have a Hyd repair shop near by you can get a 0-60psi gauge and with a "t" fitting as well as some barbed fittings you can make your own fp tester. If you have no luck figuring it out pm me your number and I will help you.

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

I borrowed a Master Fuel Pressure Kit from my nephew. It has almost every fitting possible for most makes and model vehicles.

Its just that the area where I have to apply the tester is IMPOSSIBLE, theres no space there. I'll take some pics tomorrow to show you all what Im talking bout.

Someone mentioned that I should "T" into the line(after fuel dampner to fuel rail) but its made out of steel.

I know fuel pressure from the tank to dampner is good because when I had the GE engine in I had no issues with FP, it ran fine. After I dropped the 1JZ in, this stuttering issue occured. Im questioning FP from the Dampner to the fuel rail.

Its either a FP problem or a ECU problem. I had the ECU recapped but it did not help, maybe its just a BAD ECU. Im just trying to eliminate some things out, starting with the least expensive.

addisonblc

iTrader: (4)

I say this to everybody with a shudder but try lookin at your coil packs to make sure they aren't cracked. Also before you did the swap did you do a tune up to it?

meangreen1

iTrader: (13)

If there is any section of rubber hose on the rail you can pull it off and replace it with a longer one. With that longer hose you can fit a "T" in there just for testing reasons.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Pull the rubber boots off the coils too as they crack there towards the tip real bad.

4 our of 6 of mine are cracked right now and the car is running like total crap....so I bought Superspark coils in hopes that will bring it back to life!