Lexus_SC4

Hey everyone, I will try to make this as short a possible..
I've searched and can't really find a similar situation to mine.

The Root of the Problem
Keys locked in running car, I called a friend, they suggested I pull the EFI (round) fuse to shut it down. I did so, and it worked. The next day I was able to get in with a coat hanger but it did cause some damage to the rubber but at that point I didn't care as it almost turned into a parts car the night before (I tried the coat hanger that night too.).

Now since then, when I start it, it has rough idle, bogging and the tail pipes are being coated with carbon. I took it to the gas station, put some fresh fuel in, gave it a bit of a run. When you get it out of the bogging stage, it runs a lot smoother (say 3000-5000+ rpm), as soon as the rpms go back down/idle it starts the rough idle/bogging and you have to feather the throttle because it sounds like its going to stall. Starting from a stopped position, it has a bogging/Harley sound and it seems like it could conk out until you get it to the higher rpms (especially if you punch it which I only tried a couple of times as I don't want to completely destroy the car..).

Plugs were recently replaced before this issue. Never had problems before pulling the EFI fuse.

Ideas
Wondering.. could the plugs be fouled? Would fouled plugs cause rough idle but perform better at higher rpm. I would think a fouled plug(s) is fouled at any rpms.

Could the ECU rom (rom not ram) have been re-written so now its referring back to incorrect data (I don't know much about the ECU/electronics.). I've removed the battery and reattached it many times since that night and it has been disconnected for various lengths of time (ie. 5 min. - 5 days.), so the ECU would have been reset.

Timing thrown off maybe?

Anyways, just a couple of thoughts.


Any ideas?

Also, Yes, I know I'm an idiot for putting off fixing the driver's door. Yes I already had a cracked windshield which needs to be replaced anyways and towards the end of that night I had a hammer in my pocket and almost used it twice! Yes I want to take it out on the road and keep the throttle floored to see if it 'fixes it' or gives me a new challenge and yes I like the car and decided I should give it another chance even though it has high mileage, its a really great car as I'm sure all/most of you would agree.

The Full Story..
During a winter rain/snow storm (at night), I accidentally 'locked' my keys in the car while it was running. Locked as in, driver's door has the broken rod problem and does not open from the outside, the passenger side door decided to experience the 'broken clip' problem when I tried to open it. Luckily the hood was open as the car was parked for some work I was doing on it.

Now I know there are probably a number of ways to go at this but it was to the point where patience had been lost, I was outside with a soaked hooded jacketed trying to do the coat hanger thing which just made me more frustrated, during a storm and the car had already been running for about 45 minutes. I was just waiting for the cops to roll by thinking I was messing with the car at the end of a dark driveway in the middle of the night. Should they have stopped by I really didn't want to discuss it with them at that time. I just wanted the car turned off.

Lexus_SC4

46 Views and no reply.. guess I'm not the only one that's stumped on this one.

I miss my SC.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

when you reset the ecu it has to rewrite all the correction factors.

If between the time you last reset your ecu and this time, something on your car is not reading correctly, you typically don't notice cause the car had already "learnt" the right way to run (assuming it was all working the last time it was reset), and it can kind of ignore the faulty sensor, like a bad maf or o2 sensor. if you had not reset it you would not have found out probably. most people realize they have a bad maf or similar problem right after a reset, cause the car will use the faulty sensor to learn its correction this time around, it has no previous data to know something is wrong now. My advice is to reset it and try driving it around again to give it another chance. otherwise it sounds like you have a faulty sensor or something similar. i would look at and test all the electronic components with an ohm meter and see what doesnt match up to the book.

the only other thing it sounds like is if you are missing on a couple cylinders (most noticeable at idle on the v8), you could have lost a coil, or have a really worn rotor. I noticed you only said you changed the plugs. I would test the maf, both coils, and inspect rotors for damage at the least. good luck.

Lexus_SC4

Thank you very much for your reply Ali SC3, this will set me in the right direction.
I appreciate your input.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

also check out your fuses and relays. Ive never pulled the EFI fuse while the engine was running. not really sure if it normally does any damage or not. hopefully it didnt affect the ecu.

Lexus_SC4

THANK YOU Ali SC3!!

It was the coil by the exhaust.

Still need to do a good road test, but I'm sure that was the culprit.

Thanks!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I had a feeling, good luck and go and enjoy it now!!
you may want to replace the other coil if you haven't, its just a matter of time if one has gone out already, or wait and if it starts acting up again check the other coil.

mikevandam

iTrader: (3)

if only the trunk was open and you could of pulled the fuel pump and it'll cut off. As far as the rough idle, check your coils like Ali SC3 said. One of my ignition coil blew and i was running on just 4 cylinders; sounded like a Honda haha.