1jzgte motor died while driving, cranks but wont start now
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1jzgte motor died while driving, cranks but wont start now
after a few weeks of driving the car on and off and having issues with the alternator i finally found a mix of things i needed to correct to have my 1jzgte running smooth.
today i just swapped out my alternator plugs so i could have my charging system back, started it up and ran perfect! idled for a little while till warm then rev'd it up a little. 0 issues! got in my car and decided to head to a local car meet. i plugged in my laptop just incase i found any pockets in my fuel map that i needed to adjust. i was going around 30 mph and the motor just cut out dead. all my electronics stayed on, but the rpms dropped and i didnt hear any poping, cracking or exploding nosies. just motor off.
i tried cranking the car over and nothing, i thought it was fuel so i got a friend to bring me some fuel (i was on my way to get gas, thought maybe my sending unit was bad) put that in. nothing.
i tried reuploading my map to my mapecu, nothing. i tried to check all of my wiring, still nothing.
here are my ideas:
ignition switch - maybe it broke? idk
turbo timer - this ties into the ignition switch, maybe the wiring came off
ecu capacitor blown
today i just swapped out my alternator plugs so i could have my charging system back, started it up and ran perfect! idled for a little while till warm then rev'd it up a little. 0 issues! got in my car and decided to head to a local car meet. i plugged in my laptop just incase i found any pockets in my fuel map that i needed to adjust. i was going around 30 mph and the motor just cut out dead. all my electronics stayed on, but the rpms dropped and i didnt hear any poping, cracking or exploding nosies. just motor off.
i tried cranking the car over and nothing, i thought it was fuel so i got a friend to bring me some fuel (i was on my way to get gas, thought maybe my sending unit was bad) put that in. nothing.
i tried reuploading my map to my mapecu, nothing. i tried to check all of my wiring, still nothing.
here are my ideas:
ignition switch - maybe it broke? idk
turbo timer - this ties into the ignition switch, maybe the wiring came off
ecu capacitor blown
#2
what condition is your wiring harness in? Try checking the wires to the igniter. If the igf wire is broken, it will cut the signal for the ecu to send fuel.
just a thought. Good luck....
just a thought. Good luck....
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harness i believe is in decent condition.
i just dont think thats the problem, the way it cut out.. it seemed like the fuel just stopped but you can hear it trying to prime. i guess the igf wire would interupt the flow of fuel. im sorta thinking its my fuel filter. the car sat for a lonnng time, and iv recently started to drive it. maybe there was something i sucked up (even though the walbro has a sock)
tomorrow ill check:
the igf wire
spark plugs to see if there fouled (i know they are because of the tuning process, ran a little rich a few times)
i just dont think thats the problem, the way it cut out.. it seemed like the fuel just stopped but you can hear it trying to prime. i guess the igf wire would interupt the flow of fuel. im sorta thinking its my fuel filter. the car sat for a lonnng time, and iv recently started to drive it. maybe there was something i sucked up (even though the walbro has a sock)
tomorrow ill check:
the igf wire
spark plugs to see if there fouled (i know they are because of the tuning process, ran a little rich a few times)
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ill do that aswell. i know ill have to put new plugs in. i think itd still run on fouled plugs, really ****tly but itd turn over instead of just cranking and cranking and cranking.
#6
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what about the cam shaft position sensor?
edit:
im starting to think of the changes i did since i last drove it..
i rewired the alt. plug so i could charge, i know thats fine. did my power steering bleed, and then i cleaned the inside.
i also put the passanger side plastic ecu cover/ foot rest back in which was a pretty tight fit. im starting to think i need to cut the center brace thing out because im almost positive i broke a ecu wire putting it in. i guess it could have jiggled loose by the time i started to drive it. i also noticed my afr's were on the rich side? when i had the car tuned to a 10.7+ at idle. and 11.4 while slowly driving.. it was reading random 9's.
when the car is trying to turn over my wideband is reading in the 7's so maybe i cut my o2 wire or something. i thought i pinched my mapecu's vac line but i didnt.
edit:
im starting to think of the changes i did since i last drove it..
i rewired the alt. plug so i could charge, i know thats fine. did my power steering bleed, and then i cleaned the inside.
i also put the passanger side plastic ecu cover/ foot rest back in which was a pretty tight fit. im starting to think i need to cut the center brace thing out because im almost positive i broke a ecu wire putting it in. i guess it could have jiggled loose by the time i started to drive it. i also noticed my afr's were on the rich side? when i had the car tuned to a 10.7+ at idle. and 11.4 while slowly driving.. it was reading random 9's.
when the car is trying to turn over my wideband is reading in the 7's so maybe i cut my o2 wire or something. i thought i pinched my mapecu's vac line but i didnt.
Last edited by bryan767; 05-11-11 at 07:12 AM.
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changed the plugs, checked my wiring. starting to think its my igniter pack.
iv had alot of issues with my battery. it shorted out awhile ago (grounded a positive.. opps) and havnt had my alt hooked up correctly so its always ran on 10v and below. now that i have the full 14v i believe i fried the igniter because i noticed my afr's slowly creeping lower then they usually are. which would be the igniter pulse dying out and then finally giving up.
in my head its logical but idk if its actually it. ill have to go through and multimeter everything
iv had alot of issues with my battery. it shorted out awhile ago (grounded a positive.. opps) and havnt had my alt hooked up correctly so its always ran on 10v and below. now that i have the full 14v i believe i fried the igniter because i noticed my afr's slowly creeping lower then they usually are. which would be the igniter pulse dying out and then finally giving up.
in my head its logical but idk if its actually it. ill have to go through and multimeter everything
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#11
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yeah bro with my ecu cover I just took some channel locks and broke off all the plastic crap cause I have a mapecu2 setup myself. I hate to ask something obvious but did you listen to see if your fuel pump is coming on? my factory fuel pump wiring started failing awhile ago on me and I had to replace it. Not to insult you but have you checked the fuses?
ok nevermind you already checked the fuel hmmm list down some more specifics
ok nevermind you already checked the fuel hmmm list down some more specifics
Last edited by shonuff53; 05-13-11 at 12:36 PM. Reason: fuel
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I actually put the stock alternator back one once I discovered I had. To swap plugs in the 95 shell.. its in tight. I didn't use my new alternator because I needed to swap pullys and I didn't feel like goin through all that.
Checked the timing belt, its in great shape, checked the main fuses but I havmt gone through every single one which I could check. I have a walbro 255 and u can hear it pumping, and smell gas out the exhaust when im cranking. So I know I have fuel. I even pulled the efi relay and cranked for a second to make sure I wasn't flooded. The sparkplugs weren't too fouled. And they didn't seem to be flooded either.
It comes down to the igniter and cam/crank sensors. Im leaning toward the igniter because for some reason I had the car tuned to 11afr at idle. After I fixed my issue with my alternator my aft was at 9. Im thinking that when I was driving I must have fried the ignitor because I did have a issue with grounded pistivies not to long ago and I could have messed something up there. However evn when I was subtracting fuel when I was crusing at 30 mph it still wouldn't come up to a 11 or 12 aft. It bounced from 9-10. Which makes sense if the igniter wasn't putting enough current out to ignite the fuel.
Thankfully I have a few 2jzgte friends and the nonvvti igniter is the same so ill be testing mine in there cars to see if it works
Checked the timing belt, its in great shape, checked the main fuses but I havmt gone through every single one which I could check. I have a walbro 255 and u can hear it pumping, and smell gas out the exhaust when im cranking. So I know I have fuel. I even pulled the efi relay and cranked for a second to make sure I wasn't flooded. The sparkplugs weren't too fouled. And they didn't seem to be flooded either.
It comes down to the igniter and cam/crank sensors. Im leaning toward the igniter because for some reason I had the car tuned to 11afr at idle. After I fixed my issue with my alternator my aft was at 9. Im thinking that when I was driving I must have fried the ignitor because I did have a issue with grounded pistivies not to long ago and I could have messed something up there. However evn when I was subtracting fuel when I was crusing at 30 mph it still wouldn't come up to a 11 or 12 aft. It bounced from 9-10. Which makes sense if the igniter wasn't putting enough current out to ignite the fuel.
Thankfully I have a few 2jzgte friends and the nonvvti igniter is the same so ill be testing mine in there cars to see if it works
Last edited by bryan767; 05-13-11 at 01:36 PM.
#13
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GTE igniters are the weakpoint of it's ignition system- they're kind of sensitive and a lot of supra guys that have ignition issues have eventually diagnosed it to be an igniter issue. You can of course test it, but if you have spare you can use that's an easy way to rule it out and it's a super easy change out
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so i went back to what i was doing the other night. checked out my alternator and i remembered i moved a wire going behind the alternator.. well its the crank shaft position wire. i had actually ended up pinching the wire goin to the sensor between the block and the alternator.
so i cut the ends, soldered the 3 wires, heat shrinked and taped it up. good as new, started right up
so i cut the ends, soldered the 3 wires, heat shrinked and taped it up. good as new, started right up