FireCode

iTrader: (1)

If you want, I can mail you my used cap and rotors. They worked when I replaced them about 4 months ago. It would be cheaper than buying new ones.

willhickey

iTrader: (1)

new ones are cheap man....., check that timing mine did that when it jumped how many miles are on it?, hows the maintenance etc on it? , hes right take it to a mechanic before you go on a search and destroy mission and cost yourself more money than it would just to have somebody fix it right! trust me ive done plenty of those missions like when our ls did that (jumped timing) i replaced the plugs , wire, roters, caps, both ignition coils, and some other stuff. then finally somebody convinced me to check timing... if it wasnt for the guy that helped me (hes on this forum) id probably still be throwing money at it. the good news is even if you replace all that stuff (minus the coils) then its tuneup stuff anyways so its not a waste..

gifford546

I had the exact same problem and I had traced it to the coils so I replaced them. But it still was running just like your symptoms. Turns out it was the cap and rotor on the passenger side. It only cost like 15 bucks to replace. But being on the passenger side a lot of stuff had to come out of the way and it was a big PITA to fix. But it did fix it. I hope that helps. Good luck!

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Just an update. I called an EX-Lexus mechanic from Nashville, TN. He came by and diagnosed the motor crappiness this afternoon. He listened to the exhaust, jumped a few things at the diagnostic port under the hood, listened with my doctor ears, and then he said, " its not firing on this side- driver side". He then checked the wires, and one plug, and then the injectors. The injectors needed to read 13.4-14.2. All of mine read 14.2, but the second one did not supply any fuel for some reason. He figured it was just clogged or something. I tore the fuel rail out and I am awaiting his return tonight with an injector out of his 7MGTE or 7MGE Supra. They are very close. I hope this fixing the problem. Everything else seemed to be doing the correct ohm resistance and job.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

thats great ----glad hes helping you with your problem.

keep us posted

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I have read several, several threads about the driver side coil going bad, but not hardly anything on injectors. I was shocked that was it, or hopefully that is it. He just called. Time to figure this thing out. Will keep everyone posted. Thanks 1Willy1!

FatBrian81

iTrader: (2)

I'm surprised that one cylinder would make it run so poorly. Usually you can lose one on a v8 and barely notice it.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Rechecked the fuel injectors, all good readings and supplying adequate fuel. Checked the pulse against each other on the driver side after a compression check. The compression check was 190 on cylinder number 4. Number one cylinder is being supplied at 21 volts according to meter, cylinder number 4 is putting out 34, which I think is too high. Can someone clarify whats going on? We have ruled out injectors, now thinking ECU. Please someone help with this..

CSSC400STL

Sorry to hear ur problem still going my first guess was a coil but u seem to replace them. Try checking your cats they could be clogged. I had that problem with mine. But if that's not it. Go futher into fuel pump and look into that

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I have no cats, all deleted, just straight pipe. Another mechanic has suggested the fuel pump not supplying enough or too much. Anything else I can check? I need this running right.

CSSC400STL

I'm sure that really loud lol. I just hollowed out mine nd deleted the resonators. Yeah check the fuel pump could be another problem mine is jerking at full throttle and I narrowed it down to the fuel pump

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I have checked the codes and resistance to the IAC, MAF, and the throttle body. They ALL are within specs according to the PDF file that I have. It runs better now since I have cleaned everything, but still has a check engine light, code 31. Now one of the injector is leaking, I guess from pulling it out and in. I have ordered a new seal kit for all of them. Keep everyone posted. The IAC valve was real dirty and corroded with black sut and build up. This has become a nightmare. Makes me want to burn it and start over. Now the TRAC is staying on. Anyone know where I can look next?

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

im sorry you havent had any luck yet but be assured you will eventually find the problem.


have u tried swapping the ecu?

the best thing to do is buy a used ecu from a scrap yard or company that deals in used parts but make sure thye have a 30 day warranty----swap the ecu and see what ahppens --if it doesn work just give the company back the part for your money back and your not out any money

brad11140

iTrader: (3)

Code 31 is air flow meter which you will get if you have had it disconnected while running. So just to clarify. The check engine light is on continuously. And when you pull codes 31 is the only one you get. I would double check your connections to the afm. In your cleaning did you also clean the afm. They are pretty delicate and some solvents will fry them. So check your connections, pull the efi fuse to clear all codes than start her up and see if the same code returns. As far as the ecu is concerned. When you turn the key to the acc position does your cel come on. I have heard this is the simplest test to see if our ecu is ok. I am trying to recall but I think when you pull the arm connector and run the engine you will have the cel and the trac light.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

brad ive had a long standing issue with me engine cel---------when i turn the acc on of course all the lights fire up---and than all the lights turn off---except my engine light-------it stays on indefinitely---but when i start the car the enging light turns off-------------does this mean the ecu is acting up?please elbarate if you can thanks