GTE wont start after engine build. No Spark, help please
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: FL
GTE wont start after engine build. No Spark, help please
any ideas why im not getting any spark at the plugs? i have fuel at the rail and the engine turns over but im not getting any spark. Nothing's been changed to the harness, the engine was taken out for a rebuild and placed back in but no joy. any idea?
Rookie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: canada
try this and let me know if you have other problem
have you pulled a plug and coil, grounded it to the engine, and cranked the car to visually check there is no spark?
make sure it cranks for a good 5 seconds, when i was visually testing spark on my 1jz i didnt get any spark for the first 2-3 seconds of cranking
double check your timing
test your crank and cam sensors
if you know someone else with a GTE, swap out the ignitor and see if that gets it going
Check your voltage at the coils like verticalsn said, IIRC you should be getting 12v on BOTH sides of the plug with the key ON
make sure it cranks for a good 5 seconds, when i was visually testing spark on my 1jz i didnt get any spark for the first 2-3 seconds of cranking
double check your timing
test your crank and cam sensors
if you know someone else with a GTE, swap out the ignitor and see if that gets it going
Check your voltage at the coils like verticalsn said, IIRC you should be getting 12v on BOTH sides of the plug with the key ON
Last edited by 93MSB; Jan 3, 2011 at 05:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: FL
i did pull the back two coils and pulled a plug out. i check both coils and i wasnt getting any spark for 2-3 cranks. the motor hasnt been out a month so i couldnt imagine that much going wrong in such a short period of time. ONLY change, is that i painted the intake manifold, will the paint cause a problem with the two grounds that go on the back of the intake manifold, thats the only thing i could think of at the moment. In the morning i'll try scratching off the paint on those two spots and checking all fuses but if it was the engine fuse the motor shouldnt even crank.
i was **** about timing and looked at it for two days to make sure cams and crank were lined up accurately.
i'll take a volt meter to all the coils tomorrow and see if im getting power at the coils. if not im assuming my igniter went bad? i dont see what else it could be after that
i was **** about timing and looked at it for two days to make sure cams and crank were lined up accurately.
i'll take a volt meter to all the coils tomorrow and see if im getting power at the coils. if not im assuming my igniter went bad? i dont see what else it could be after that
yes absolutely the paint could be causing your issue. the main grounds for the ecu are on the intake manifold. the coils get 12v to both pins at key on, the ecu grounds the circuit to fire the coil. so if you don't have a good grounding connection on the intake manifold then your ecu can't ground what it needs to.
also check to make sure you got all the grounding wires on the intake manifold. you should have atleast two ring terminals with grounding wires attached
also check to make sure you got all the grounding wires on the intake manifold. you should have atleast two ring terminals with grounding wires attached
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Yes that could be your issue the 2jz are really funny about grounds, I had a ground issue where my car wouldn't start after 2 weeks of diagnostic.
There is (2) ground that goes to the manifold make sure the spot is clean no paint no rust.
There is (1) that goes to the firewall , it comes from the cylinder head.
You have another one that goes to the block around the driver side motor mount.
Then the one that goes to the 14mm bolt that bolts the engine to the Bellhousing, it come from the frame rightright around the fuel line on the driver side frame rail.
Make sure the ignitor is grounded too .
There is (2) ground that goes to the manifold make sure the spot is clean no paint no rust.
There is (1) that goes to the firewall , it comes from the cylinder head.
You have another one that goes to the block around the driver side motor mount.
Then the one that goes to the 14mm bolt that bolts the engine to the Bellhousing, it come from the frame rightright around the fuel line on the driver side frame rail.
Make sure the ignitor is grounded too .
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: FL
Yes that could be your issue the 2jz are really funny about grounds, I had a ground issue where my car wouldn't start after 2 weeks of diagnostic.
There is (2) ground that goes to the manifold make sure the spot is clean no paint no rust.
There is (1) that goes to the firewall , it comes from the cylinder head.
You have another one that goes to the block around the driver side motor mount.
Then the one that goes to the 14mm bolt that bolts the engine to the Bellhousing, it come from the frame rightright around the fuel line on the driver side frame rail.
Make sure the ignitor is grounded too .
There is (2) ground that goes to the manifold make sure the spot is clean no paint no rust.
There is (1) that goes to the firewall , it comes from the cylinder head.
You have another one that goes to the block around the driver side motor mount.
Then the one that goes to the 14mm bolt that bolts the engine to the Bellhousing, it come from the frame rightright around the fuel line on the driver side frame rail.
Make sure the ignitor is grounded too .
I am missing one ground wire and i think its the one that goes to the back of the bell housing, it might have broken off but i dont remember seeing it, everything else checks out.
I did find one thing odd, i checked continuity on the CPS and i was getting feedback on BOTH wires. isnt it suppose to be just one? Does this mean the crank position sensor is bad? it bolts to one spot so i assume it cant be adjusted?
thanks again
ok so you didn't mess with any wiring right
jump e1 and t1 to get a cell and go from there.
cam sensor 1 signal is 26b,and ground is 6b cam sensor 2 signal is 25b and ground is 5b
crank signal is 27b and ground is 7b.
make sure the sensor is plugged in.
is the ignitor itself bolted down?
jump e1 and t1 to get a cell and go from there.
cam sensor 1 signal is 26b,and ground is 6b cam sensor 2 signal is 25b and ground is 5b
crank signal is 27b and ground is 7b.
make sure the sensor is plugged in.
is the ignitor itself bolted down?
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: FL
ok so you didn't mess with any wiring right
jump e1 and t1 to get a cell and go from there.
cam sensor 1 signal is 26b,and ground is 6b cam sensor 2 signal is 25b and ground is 5b
crank signal is 27b and ground is 7b.
make sure the sensor is plugged in.
is the ignitor itself bolted down?
jump e1 and t1 to get a cell and go from there.
cam sensor 1 signal is 26b,and ground is 6b cam sensor 2 signal is 25b and ground is 5b
crank signal is 27b and ground is 7b.
make sure the sensor is plugged in.
is the ignitor itself bolted down?
I'll see if i can pull a cel and get back.
again when i did a continuity test on the wires coming from the crank position sensor i got solid continutiy on both wires. shouldnt it be just one wire showing a ground and the signal wire should be dead with the ignition off?
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: FL
getting code 12. Crank or cam position sensors
aside from being just screwed into the oil pump housing is there any special means of reinstallation once timing is set. I did made sure the marker on the crank gear lined up to the mark on the oil pump and that both cam were lined up with the notches so im pretty sure timing is good but that still wouldnt stop me from getting spark. from there i just bolted the crank sensor to the oil pump
aside from being just screwed into the oil pump housing is there any special means of reinstallation once timing is set. I did made sure the marker on the crank gear lined up to the mark on the oil pump and that both cam were lined up with the notches so im pretty sure timing is good but that still wouldnt stop me from getting spark. from there i just bolted the crank sensor to the oil pump