How to: Trunk Lift Support w/ pics...
#332
Driver School Candidate
Heat
I didn't count. Too busy with out of towners. But I believe the more accurate count is 49.
Thanks PerryinLA. Yours Truly, Gatemouth PS. Going to get a torch now.
Thanks PerryinLA. Yours Truly, Gatemouth PS. Going to get a torch now.
#333
Driver School Candidate
I didn't count. Too busy with out of towners. But I believe the more accurate count is 49.
Thanks PerryinLA. Yours Truly, Gatemouth PS. Going to get a torch now.
Thanks PerryinLA. Yours Truly, Gatemouth PS. Going to get a torch now.
#334
Racer
Thanks for the nerd-check. It was 49 because I mentioned it twice in my latest post.
Let me show you how it works: Heat. Now the count is up to 50.
If you had spent more time reading instead of trying to correct me, that bolt would have been off by now.
Let me show you how it works: Heat. Now the count is up to 50.
If you had spent more time reading instead of trying to correct me, that bolt would have been off by now.
#335
Driver School Candidate
Your Welcome, Perry. Got the Propane torch and got the right side bolt off.
Left tomorrow. Takes about three cycles of heating/cooling. Put a little spot of WALMART generic caladryl lotion
on the bolt using a Q-TIP, thus allowing a visual queue indicating if the bolt was turning or being stripped. WOW. I MEAN WOW. Exciting to see that spot rotating out of view. Something Freudian for sure. Well All right. Thanks for your help. GATE..
Left tomorrow. Takes about three cycles of heating/cooling. Put a little spot of WALMART generic caladryl lotion
on the bolt using a Q-TIP, thus allowing a visual queue indicating if the bolt was turning or being stripped. WOW. I MEAN WOW. Exciting to see that spot rotating out of view. Something Freudian for sure. Well All right. Thanks for your help. GATE..
#336
Driver School Candidate
Another question. Other WINDOW ( Passenger) struggles to go up, especially after a rain.
Inspecting ( PANEL REMOVED, but W.REG not removed) All I could find was the WINDOW is extremely difficult to push up manually ( WINDOW DISCONNECTED FROM W. REG.)
The W.REG assembly motors up and down beautifully (WINDOW unattached and pushed all the way closed position).
Should a window be so difficult to push up manually. If so, these motors/window regulator cables must be beau coup
strong and rugged. Thank You for your time and courtesy, GATEMOUTH
Inspecting ( PANEL REMOVED, but W.REG not removed) All I could find was the WINDOW is extremely difficult to push up manually ( WINDOW DISCONNECTED FROM W. REG.)
The W.REG assembly motors up and down beautifully (WINDOW unattached and pushed all the way closed position).
Should a window be so difficult to push up manually. If so, these motors/window regulator cables must be beau coup
strong and rugged. Thank You for your time and courtesy, GATEMOUTH
#338
Driver School Candidate
Response to t2d2
t2d2
Thanks . I already used a propane to remove. I see your point.
What I noticed is the torch flame extends much further ( even on low) past the bolt.
If it hits anything flammable, it will catch fire.
I used a heavy duty pot lid , Circa. 1930s, to backstop the flame.
The next problem I encountered was the retainer clips on the
eyehole attachment. I forced one on as best I could
and on the other just said ,forget it, and left the retainer clip off
the other side. Works fine.
I think these retainer clips are meant to be bent OPEN before
attaching the eyehole over the bolt and then using needle nose pliers to bend back into
the original shape. The clips don't really carry any force, just precautionary.
The retainer clip on the keyhole attachment is much different. No problem with those.
Anyway, learning a lot.
Thanks for your reply.
Any thoughts on my other observation about my passenger window located
in the same thread.
Sincerely, Gatemouth
Thanks . I already used a propane to remove. I see your point.
What I noticed is the torch flame extends much further ( even on low) past the bolt.
If it hits anything flammable, it will catch fire.
I used a heavy duty pot lid , Circa. 1930s, to backstop the flame.
The next problem I encountered was the retainer clips on the
eyehole attachment. I forced one on as best I could
and on the other just said ,forget it, and left the retainer clip off
the other side. Works fine.
I think these retainer clips are meant to be bent OPEN before
attaching the eyehole over the bolt and then using needle nose pliers to bend back into
the original shape. The clips don't really carry any force, just precautionary.
The retainer clip on the keyhole attachment is much different. No problem with those.
Anyway, learning a lot.
Thanks for your reply.
Any thoughts on my other observation about my passenger window located
in the same thread.
Sincerely, Gatemouth
Last edited by Gatemouth; 03-05-18 at 12:48 PM. Reason: Improve the description of the action
#343
Driver School Candidate
Rock auto sent the w/spoiler struts here to Canada in about a week for my 95 sc300.
Put em in in ten minutes. Have to wait til it warms up to see if lid will pop all the way up. Holds it open fine. Good info here. Heat your nuts before removing old strut.
Put em in in ten minutes. Have to wait til it warms up to see if lid will pop all the way up. Holds it open fine. Good info here. Heat your nuts before removing old strut.
#344
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: CA
Posts: 2
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I live in Oceanside, CA and found a Strut manufacturer in Carlsbad, CA that has excellent prices and I got them for my hood and Trunk for my 98 SC300.
They work great!
Lift Supports Depot
866-969-5438
They work great!
Lift Supports Depot
866-969-5438
#345
Driver School Candidate
Just ordered the strongarm 4508 from Amazon. God I love these old threads. Will post an update once I get them on as my trunk is heavier than most (got the factory backup camera that came on the uzz31)