HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know the correct coil phasing setting for AEM V2 with VVTi Coils w/ 7mGTE CPS for 1A-3B is? Can you copy over what the 1130 7m Cal file has for these settings? Just trying to troubleshoot my current setup to make sure it's 100%.

My settings replicate this:

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I wouldn't touch the 7m map, you need to take these values from the 2jz map. these are in the basemap already.
you may want to consider starting from the aem v2 2jzgte basemap and modifying the ignition stuff to match yours, and scaling the injectors as necessary.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

I needs some help trouble shooting this mod on my newly NA-T daily. This is what I got for my setup.
93 2jzge 120k miles 5spd
AEM V1 with broda805 tuned running map with the same exact setup and also checked the settings that need to be changed for this mod and all match up.
7mgte cps VVTI coils
DH61 igniter and also have a Camry DS62 tested both
Rx7 550cc injectors
62mm Garrett

Yesterday was the first of actually trying to start the car after doing na-t and using a tuned map from broda805 to get it running for now. Timing all checked cams/crank/cps all at zero along with the AEM set to zero. Cranked her over fired up for a second than it back fired real bad and woke up all the neighbors lol than I shut it off to make sure everything still look ok. looks fine from what I can tell. Hope this didn’t damage anything like blow HG or something? Then I decided to wait for my buddy to show up with a timing light just to make sure everything is good and if it idles I can matches it with the AEM. I go back to fire her up and now I get nothing?!? WTF?

Troubleshooting I’ve done so far.
Checked for spark and sure enough no spark? Must have gotten spark for it to back fire?
Igniter and coils or getting 12v
CPS checked out on the ohms test at about 175 ohms. Factory is between 150 - 180 I think. Also when cranking Stat Sync turns on which tells me it’s getting signal from the cps. Correct?
Checked wiring and I am certain everything is correct.

After reading through the dizzy delete thread.

I found something that might be causing me some issues
In the diagram I helped create with Ali states the coil 2 and coil 3 go to pin b53 and b54. Reading through the thread, I found on post #42 from quicksc4 stated that the “two extra wires” go to pin 55b and 56b. If b53 and b54 are correct what else should I check? I’m at halt and not really sure what to test next.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Look coil #2 goes to pin 53b and coil #3 goes to 54B but you already have one coil from the factory which is at pin 57b , so all you do is move that wire to pin 52b and you that as coil#1.
If it back fires in the intake then the timing is OFF

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Thats how I have the coils setup Coil #1 = 52b Coil #2 = 53b Coil #3 = 54b. Still not able to get spark from the coils? I put in a spare spark plug in Coil #1 grounded to the head and I get no spark?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Ok cool do you have the ground on the ignitor hooked up? are you getting 12v at the ignitor? is the coil wiring from the coils to the ignitor correct?

Send me a pm with your cell number i can help you with that!

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Yes, to the ground on the ignitor which is grounded to the chasis.
Yes, I am getting 12v at the ignitor along with 12v at the coil plugs.
Yes, as far as I can tell the coil wiring is correct. Over looked it and double checked my wiring 2,3,4 times.

and PM sent thanks

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Then you need a correct map to start the car, i can get my car to start on stock tt map on aem ems.

Ok so where is coil #1 located? where is #2 located? and where is #3 located ? meaning what what coil is where?
If you know what i am saying. Call me i'll help you figure it out!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

go under the page where you set the cam /crank sensitivity, and see when you are cranking if the timing error box is increasing or if you are getting stat synced. If you do not get stat synced, then it will not fire anything. normally this happens from the cps being bad, loose wires inside cps, or even if the battery dips below 12v. you need to make sure you are getting stat synced before doing anything else. Also see if you are getting timing errors and let me know the outcome on both stat synced and timing errors.

If its not the battery (try jumping it off a running car) then normally when you had spark before and you don't have it anymore I would suspect the CPS, let me know if those numbers are going up, if they are you may have it wired wrong or it may be junk.
swap back to the stock distributor and see if it works. remember you need to change the cam/crank sensitivity when you swap, its like 6000 and 6000 for the 7m cps, and like 1200 or 1300 for the stock distributor.

you can use either 52-54 or 55-57, pins 52 and 57 are connected in the ems, just like pins 53 and 56, and 54 and 55. thats why v1 is wastespark.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

I will check to see if the crank secitivity is increasing during cranking when I get to the shop later today. I will switch back to the dizzy even tho I think the CPS is fine becuase Stat Sync is turning on during cranking which leads me to believe the wiring is correct and the aem is getting the signal from the cps.

I used a map from broda805 that was tuned at church performance and is the same exact setup with rx7 550cc injectors cps vvti coilpacks aem map, aem iat all he had was a bigger turbo (s366) so i assume that map should be ok to start with. The only thing i had to change was the map sensor. He had a 3bar aem map sensor and I got a 5bar aem map sensor that I had laying around which I also changed in the aem to 5bar instead of 3bar and all the parameters where correct for cop setup.

I think i have the coils likes this but will have to confirm, going off the top of my head on this.
Coil #1 is at cylinder 6 and spark wire going to cylinder 1 (thought this would make things easier for timing light and checking for spark)
Coil #2 is at cylinder 2 spark wire going to cylinder 5
Coil #3 is at cylinder 4 spark wire going to cylinder 3 or vise versa

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Well if you were on the stock gte ecu , it would have been a pita to diagnos, since your on ems try what Ali suggested on the post above and do you have a reading on the map sensor?
it sounds like you got everything down pack but there is something wrong in the setup, because if it was running on his car i don't see why it wouldn't run on yours if everything is working properly..

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

I will give that a shot but I still think the CPS and wiring is correct becuase for stat sync to turn doesnt the cps/distributor send the signal to the aem for it to start syncing? Also how can I check to see if the map sensor is getting a reading on the aem? Didnt think about checking that.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

definately check the map sensor reading, it should be 0 psi with the engine off. if you have the reading in kpa just change it to psi. on the v1 its not as simple as just selecting the new map sensor in the wizard, you have to also manually change the load table as well to match the new map sensor.

keep an eye on the timing errors, stat sync is only the first step showing that its getting inputs, doesn't mean that these inputs are always correct. I assume you changed the cam/crank sensitivity to 6000rpms for the cps?

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

yes the cam/crank sensitivity are all set to 6000rpms and the last two are 1300 and 1200. Now that im thinking about this, the map sensor might be whats causing one of the hick ups. After all this map was tuned with a 3bar map sensor.

and also I think I remeber seeing the "engine load" parameter maxed out with the car off but I might be wrong. Although it would defidently make sense. Now about manually changing the load table to match the the new map....
How do you go about doing this in aempro? Or if one of you guys know how to do the fix could I send the map to one of you?

But that still doesn solve the no spark issue....

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

You might have to tackle one issue at a time, if the map is maxed out the ecu does wierd things.
it will always read wierd a few seconds after you turn the key to off, that is normal.
But when the key is set to on and the engine off, and it should read 0 psi after a few seconds (the EMS is a bit slow to start).

AEM EMS 30-1101 installation instructions (do a google search)
start by reading the instructions, particularly the bottom of page 4.

The AEM map sensor wizard is sort of a joke, it does about 80% of the work for you, leaving you to manually do the boost fuel correct table..
triple check every setting, its the only way to get it to work properly.