Ali so full of knowledge and thorough responses! Appreciate having you apart of the lexus/supra group!

I was curious if you could look over my ideas for a motor build and see if it all looks kosher, maybe recommend some things?

I'm going to rebuild my 2jzge motor (aftermarket rods and pistons) and head (stock valve sizes w/ 264 weld+regrinded cams)
TT intake manifold with the head flange cut and rewelded to fit the GE head
7m CPS
megasquirt MS3 pro
IS300 coils w/ camry igniter OR LQ9 coils (would the megasquirt require an IGF signal from the coils/igniter?)
T4 tubular manifold w/ BW S364 FMW or S372 (not sure which would be less harsh on my R154 trans).. I wanted to run 500-600rwhp on pump gas/E85 with the potential to do a 750rwhp "high boost" setup.

I plan on running the TT valve covers and coil cover, and have thought about using the distributor base but I do like the compactness of the 7mgte electronics, and from what I read the megasquirt can recognize it fine, even though the TT ecu doesn't quite like its sensors. I was wondering if the IS300 coils would be sufficient for my setup and power goals or if the LQ9 setup would truly be worth the upgrade in spark because the kit seems to be about 500 dollars more over brand new IS300 coils.

All of this is my build ideas instead of going 2jzgte with a jdm motor and unknown quality of bearings, seals, wiring so I would love some advice!

You're idea sounds very similar to my current setup. My setup is 2jzge, 268 regrind cams, divided T4 BW S300sx (61mm), MS3x, IS300 ignition, e85, goal of 600hp on medium boost, 700hp on high boost. You can see a couple pages back how I wired the IS300 setup for MS3x.

An S372 is much larger than you'd need for that power on e85.

Thanks for the reply ali

Have any clue how to wire an msd 3 bar map sensor into the aem??

I'm using low imp injectors and AEM injector driver.

I've discovered the problem, before when using a resistor pack, injector 5 was sticky when cold and the now peak and hold signal doesn't pack the same punch as resistor pack and it wouldn't fire at all.

The fitted new Precision 550cc injectors have subsequently been flow checked and found there's a 24% spread.

Now grounded until I find some replacement injectors.

Couple pics of the distributor cap I got from Hsokhi installed on my car. This is an ebay manifold with a BW S300sx, lots of clearance for an intake now.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-halonbay3.jpg


https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-halonbay1.jpg

I have been having a lot of people asking me where I got my distributor cover, so once again I got it from HSOKHI. If you want a similar one just contact
HSOKHI
or
DAWHORL

thx for the hookup on cap , got one coming as well

ali, i have read thru these pages several times , if doing the vvti cop , theres no need for the crank sensor to be in the mix , that comes into play when doing the gte cop route , am i correct or did i miss something ...

can you on 1 page illustrate exactly what needs to be done wiring wise and exactly what settings in aem v1 needs to be changed

i ask for the info seems abit confusing with bits and pieces here and there , so please can you place the info in one post thats accurate , i would really appreciate it

The distributor and the 7m cps, both have a crank sensor and 2 cam sensors built in. so as long as you keep one of those with the aem then you are good, doesn't matter the type of coilpacks or even single coil it needs those 3 signals to run.

As long as you keep the dizzy or the 7m CPS which this mod does, you don't need the gte crank sensor which goes on the oil pump/crank. only if you want to run no 7mCPS or distributor at all, do you need to have the sensor on the crank, and the 2 gte cam sensor on the side of the head which usually requires machining and welding on a GE head.

This is the wiring you need to do, and at the bottom it mentions the settings. I will try and get another picture up of the AEM software which shows the settings, but they are at the bottom on this picture.

You will be adding wires B53 and B54 and running them from AEM to the new DS62 ignitor.
Then the 4 wires going from ignitor to the coilpacks (3 signals and a shared 12V wire). To make this part easier you can get and modify a mk3 coilpack harness.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...COPDiagram.png

so ali i noticed in your illustraton that it says for aem settings to set spark teeth to 12 , but may not work with ge oem dizzy , so what value do i use

yeah I don't know how that got in there it does work with the distributor.
I need to redo the diagram I will get around to it soon, thanks for reminding me.
only difference between running the distributor base as a sensor vs 7m cps it the sensitivities under advanced cam/crank setup.

I have them listed here:
Stock Dizzy
falling edge on both cam and crank (will require resync of timing).
crank H sens below: 2000 rpm
crank L sens above: 1900 rpm
cam high sens below: 2000 rpm
cam low sens above: 1900 rpm
speed sensor you can leave same 1300/1200

7M CPS
falling edge on both cam and crank (will require resync of timing).
crank H sens below: 6000 rpm
crank L sens above: 6000 rpm
cam high sens below: 6000 rpm
cam low sens above: 6000 rpm
speed sensor you can leave same 1300/1200
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-settings.html

For spark teeth the correct thing to do is turn on coils 1-3 and 6-8 in the software and set spark teeth to 24.
Since aem v1 is wasted spark, you can also just turn on coils 1-3 and then set spark teeth to 12. confusing right?

I say go ahead and set it up properly and set spark teeth to 24 and turn on all 6 coils even though its wasted spark. the reason being is that you can can tune 6 individual cylinders still with spark teeth at 24, but you can only tune pairs with spark teeth set to 12 (cause it only looks at coils 1-3 and doubles it).

Normally most people do not do individual cylinder trims/tuning, but its just a couple extra check boxes and I set mine up with all 6 on and spark teeth on 24. This is how you would set up an aem v2 as it is not restricted to wasted spark. For the aem v2 I posted all the settings in a thread somewhere even with a picture.

So spark teeth = 12 is the easier way to set it up (coils 1-3 should be on at least)
and spark teeth = 24 is the actual way you should set it up (coils 1-3 on and 6-8 on).

WHEN SWAPPING TO COILS CHANGE IGNITION PHASING FOR COIL 1 to 21.53 and RESYNNC TIMING OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR MOTOR IN A NON REPAIRABLE FASIHON AKA CYLINDER 1 or 6 SHOOTING OUT THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK

put this together
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...20settings.jpg

I now have mine up and running. :)

I found that to get 1 & 6 to fire, the original ignitor wire must be relocated from pin B57 to B52 on the ECU.

Video of engine running and our middle of the field resistor pack to bypass the suspect injector driver.

that is only if you have an AEM version 2. If you have aem v1, you do not have to move the pin.

Someone must have forgotten to tell that to my Series 1.

not sure whats going on with your v1, but aem ems v1:
pins 52 and 57 are internally connected
pins 53 and 56 are internally connected
pins 54 and 55 are internally connected

this is because v1 only runs wasted spark, so cylinders 1+6, 2+5, and 3+4 fire together.
so for coil 1 you can use either 52 or 57 (stock its in 57 already)
coil 2 you can use 53 or 56
coil 3 you can use 54 or 55.

So not sure why you had an issue on the v1. On the v2 its completely different.