documentation of a bad ecu
12-13-11, 06:34 PM
#19
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Another update, the car dropped out of O/D again, after swapping the ECU back out it was back in so I pulled apart the ECU.
The rest of the capacitors are now leaking and have been replaced as well (which I should have did in the first place).
All is well, again. Hopefully for good.
The rest of the capacitors are now leaking and have been replaced as well (which I should have did in the first place).
All is well, again. Hopefully for good.
12-13-11, 06:59 PM
#20
Damn dude, that's some bad luck. I was going to get my extra one out of the trunk the other day but the damn thing wouldn't open lol. Since my trunk struts are shot, I have to open it the old fashion way but the key sometimes gets a little squirrelly. I'll give it a try tomorrow and open it up to take a look.
12-13-11, 07:47 PM
#21
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Get some graphite lube for the keyhole, it'll work like new. It's dry and looks like metal shavings.
I pulled the 92-94 apart, and the other one I have. So, 3/3 ECU's have leaking capacitors.
Go industrial espionage!
I only have two left to replace, one of which I know is gooping out the bottom but I ran out of caps.
I pulled the 92-94 apart, and the other one I have. So, 3/3 ECU's have leaking capacitors.
Go industrial espionage!
I only have two left to replace, one of which I know is gooping out the bottom but I ran out of caps.
12-13-11, 08:49 PM
#22
I opened mine today just to see but I was looking more for bulging caps like on a motherboard. Looks like these all leak at the leads. I didn't see any damage to the board but I had the ECU out anyway so I thought I'd look.
12-13-11, 08:54 PM
#23
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These don't bulge like the usual capacitors and that was my issue.
From the top, visually they looked fine. It wasn't until I started tilting them over did I notice they were leaking or had blown out the bottom.
I think what has happened is the rubber used to seal at the bottom dries up and/or shrinks leaking and I'm sure the vibrations added in don't help either.
From the top, visually they looked fine. It wasn't until I started tilting them over did I notice they were leaking or had blown out the bottom.
I think what has happened is the rubber used to seal at the bottom dries up and/or shrinks leaking and I'm sure the vibrations added in don't help either.
12-16-11, 07:25 AM
#24
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The capacitors are still holding, but I noticed one of them I must have moved a little too much because it leaked a little (that or the ripple current is screwing it up).
Either way I just received all of my panasonic capacitors in today from digikey. Time to get dizzy again!
OH
I took out the anti-theft module, and the steering wheel motor (telescopic, etc) module and both had capacitors that are known to go bad quickly, so I don't know why they've held up but the others have not. I need to get a capacitor meter so I can check them all one day, visually they look ok but that's only half the battle.
Either way I just received all of my panasonic capacitors in today from digikey. Time to get dizzy again!
OH
I took out the anti-theft module, and the steering wheel motor (telescopic, etc) module and both had capacitors that are known to go bad quickly, so I don't know why they've held up but the others have not. I need to get a capacitor meter so I can check them all one day, visually they look ok but that's only half the battle.
12-16-11, 03:51 PM
#25
Opened my ECU again today and there it was -- a leaking cap on the board that's connected by ribbon cable. It looks just like the others in this thread, with enough corrosion to sever one lead completely and the other is mostly gone.
I think I'll go the reman ecu route since I don't possess the soldiering skills to do it myself.
I think I'll go the reman ecu route since I don't possess the soldiering skills to do it myself.
12-16-11, 05:41 PM
#26
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Opened my ECU again today and there it was -- a leaking cap on the board that's connected by ribbon cable. It looks just like the others in this thread, with enough corrosion to sever one lead completely and the other is mostly gone.
I think I'll go the reman ecu route since I don't possess the soldiering skills to do it myself.
I think I'll go the reman ecu route since I don't possess the soldiering skills to do it myself.
Digikey has all the capacitors, just order a few extra of each before hand (just in case).
You need a decent 35W+ soldering iron, a solder vacuum and/or braid, and some flux.
All you do is de-solder each post of the capacitor, let it fall out. Put the new one in there making sure to match the polarity, bend the leads like the original, cut them close to the board, put some flux on and heat the lead and feed solder into the actual hole (NOT the tip of the iron).
If anyone wants to send me an ECU that has leaking capacitors and has a spare to run around with I'll be more than happy to take a look at it and pop some new capacitors in to see if it's fixed [mine is] however...number one, I have a IT Consulting business to run so it wouldn't be snappy snappy - number two, I can't guarantee it'll fix it, or even work (CYOA type of thing).
12-17-11, 10:13 AM
#28
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That's what mine was doing, it would run great sometimes, then others it felt like it was pouring out fuel.
I even had someone tell me that my car was smoking at WOT it was so rich - not anymore
I even had someone tell me that my car was smoking at WOT it was so rich - not anymore
12-18-11, 01:50 PM
#29
Ok, so I opened up my spare '95 ECU today and decided to take a look. I swapped mine out last year because I thought it might have been my "morning smoke" issue. So my original ECU looks perfectly fine. It's amazing how much different yours and mine looks when opened up. Your automatic ECU looks completely different. I did however find the capacitor which is located around the same area, but mine looks perfectly fine. I checked everything else while I was in there and I didn't see any issues. I might swap this one back in and replace my valve seals because I believe that has been the mysterious oil burning culprit all along.
12-18-11, 08:42 PM
#30
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I really need to map them all out, but I can tell you right off the top of my head that one was the VSS which effects O/D. I mapped two more before my ADDDDDDHD kicked in but didn't write it down.
I'd definitely say valve seals, usually the culprit when letting off smoke on a fresh start from leaking down.
Did you take any pictures? The 5 spd shouldn't be that much different
I'd definitely say valve seals, usually the culprit when letting off smoke on a fresh start from leaking down.
Did you take any pictures? The 5 spd shouldn't be that much different