Is there any way of checking the injectors to see if they are stuck open without pulling them? I have been having an issue with my 2jzgte swap. It idles fine for a while, bogs down, and eventually stalls. When i give it gas it sputters. I pulled the first plug (brand new) and it was black (sign of running rich). Any input would be appreciated.

 

I don't think it would idle fine at all with a stuck open injector. Do you have a wideband?
Sounds like you have a closed loop issue. pull the o2 sensor connector, reset ecu and see if it happens again (ignore the obvious check engine light).

 

a leaking pcv valve can do that too, especially if its compensating.

 

Well i finally came back to my house for school to work on it a while. I put in a different
o2 sensor and it idles perfectly fine, but it breaks up when i rev it fast or if i slowly rev it up to a certain rpm it starts to break up. My tach doesnt work so i dont know which rpm. I took a vid on my phone which i will post up later.

No i dont have a wideband. I also have codes 42 and 78

 

Code 42 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
Code 72 Fuel cut solenoid signal fault

the reason its breaking up is because of code 72, you need to find out why there is no signal or your fuel cut wont work right = not good for mpg or driveability

 

Well my fuel pump ecu doesnt work so what i had to do was hook it up to a 12v to be able to get it started. Can that be the problem? Sorry im clueless when it comes to wiring.

 

you will have both of those. Don't worry about the 78 code, if you want to get rid of the 42 you can run a input to E9 pin 2 from the cluster spd output in the dash connector next to the ECU. But you will need a speed cut defender or you won't go past 108mph Sad

This is what i got from Sean @ myjzswap.com he did my wiring.

 

He also told me that it can be my alternator not recharging, or my coils can be cracked. How do i pull the rubber off the coils to check for cracks?? Im just being cautious, dont want to rip anything.

 

any clue on this problem i have it with my ge?

 

I don't know if this is the right place.[newbe] I'm trying to find out what would keep the the ECU from signaling the #4 injecter to fire? I did a 2jz ge swap from a Lexus 300sc into my MK3. I got it runing but #4 isn't firing. I checked spark good,no signal from ECU. Number 4 only. I can't imagine why it would drop one cylinder. I have 12volts to hot side and continuity from ECU to other side. But no signal?????????? I'm sure Iv'e made a stupid mistake, please help.

 

to check for cracks under the boot, just pull the boot off slowly from one side and it will pop off its just squeezed on there.

If number 4 isnt injecting, you either have a burnt out driver in the ecu, the ecu has 1 or more leaky capacitors that tent to show up as injections problems, a bad injector, or the ECU isn't getting IGF spark confirmation on that cylinder for some reason and shutting down injection.

I would rule the last one out if you are getting good spark on that cylinder because if you get spark there and the engine is still running the IGF should be working because there is only 1 IGF line for all 6 cylinders.
I would just go ahead and change the rotor and cap also to rule those out if they are old/worn on the inside.
how did you determine no signal from ECU, the ecu should ground that wire to fire the injector.

 

My Injectors Are stuck open i changed efi relay and ecu also any way to solve it?

 

I hooked the ground clip of my test light to positive side of batt then probed the side of injecter that gets signal from ecu. You should get a flashing light when running or cranking. Mine is steady on on #4. The funny thing[at least to me] is when I open up the throttle it smooths out. In fact it will bark the tires on the 1-2 shift under WOT. I don't beleave it would/could do that on only five cylinders. Anouther important thing is I have three ecu's. One obd1 and two obd2's. And it misses w/ all of them at low speeds. One more thing, I have the 2JZ-GE fuel pump running on 12 volts all the time. I think that is at least part of my problem. When I cycle the toggle for fuel pump at or near idle it runs better.

 

do you mean steady as in always on and not a flashing. that would mean its always on, the wire may be grounded out causing the injector to be full open, which explains bad idle and smoothing up when you go wot where the gas gets a chance to get used instead of washing out the spark.

 

No the wire on the front of the injecter is always hot with key in crank or run, the other wire should flash in crank or run. Five of mine do. With the test light backwards you are reading grounds instead of hots. The reason it runs so rich [I think] is because the 12 volts to fuel pump all the time., but thats another issue. I need to get the MK3 fuel regulation back on line, or get a 2JZ fuel ECU.......[I think]