also the outlets on the INTERCOOLER are 3" so i think thats a real problem.
and i most deff am single turbo.



didnt have a tape measure because i broke it by pulling the tongue out and letting it retract

i can't find out what turbo it is because the same picture comes under 4 different turbos but i had a freaking light bulb turn on and something told me to take the tap off the outlet and there it was PT300-6076 which means it's a sc60 precisions turbo. the SC60 comes with T31 wheel with either a 2.559" inducer and 2.229" exducer (76 trim) or 2.559" inducer and 2.121" exducer (69 trim) Each turbo comes with a 360-degree race bearing center section and a T04E compressor cover with a 3-inch inlet and 2-inch outlet. The SC60 has a 59mm compressor wheel that has a 2.320" inducer and 3.000" exducer (60 trim). Supports up to 580-hp at the flywheel with proper tuning.

 

i see boost logic sells it but i cant find out if it comes with the gasket and the 2 little screw that hold the flange up and if i have to tap the little holes so that i can actually make the screw work. just my luck!!
I'M ABOUT TO GO CRAZY!!

 

i don't think those parts were originally for an sc.
you should really get a measuring tape and measure the outlet of the turbo. it looks a little small for a 2j, but hopefully you will get quicker spool out of it. also make sure it fits onto the manifold fine.

i buy all my turbo stuff from atpturbo. they sell the gaskets and everything seperately, unless it says it comes with it it usually doesn't.
are you saying the flange on your turbo doesnt have the screws on either side, and if thats the case does the big hole in the center have grooves like its been tapped for a fitting. if thats the case you don't need the flange, you can just get the right fitting and screw it into the turbo with the proper thread sealant.

 

yea i got played on this setup but for the most part the turbo sits on the manifold and fits fine...lol
and i was talking about the flange to the oil pan.

 

is this the one?
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant..._Code=ATP-FTG1

 

thats the flange for the turbo in the link.
the flange for the oil pan i'm not really sure where you get it (boostlogic maybe, mine came with the kit). you have 3 options:
1) drill out the big hole, tap the 2 screws on the side and use the flange + fitting.
2) drill and tap the big hole in the middle for a large return fitting. no flange needed.
3) remove oil pan, get flange or a fitting welded to the pan.

I went with 1 because you can get small metric taps at your local auto store and I had a flange. 2 seems the easiest but you need a huge tap, probably have to order online.

 

Try kiko engineering in Pompano, he's done work to alot of CLFL members and he's good at it. PM for his number

 

what type of work exactly has he done. because this is the first time hearing about him and i'm usually at almost every meet?

yea i figured they would be the best place to get them. and did you have to tap your 2 little screw holes?

 

oh yes, I will never forget that day. luckily the holes are already drilled out, they just need to be tapped. I bought a small tap set for like 10 bucks and went at it. the handle for the taps was really not strong enough to get the job done (at least for me) because you have to reach down there at a funny angle.
Luckily I bought that 90 degree drill extension for drilling out the center hole.

So I attatched the tap to the end of a 90 degree drill thing (where the drill bit normally goes), and Instead of using the drill on it I used a ratchet with an extension to turn the 90 degree thing slowly while keeping it all aligned (maybe you can just use the drill but I didn't want to go too fast and risk stripping anything). after you get the first couple threads in its pretty easy from there.

 

wow... that sounds like a real hassle
i'm just going to take the easy way out and send it to a shop so they will be responsible for any *** ups

 

I have heard removing the oil pan is a huge pain. plus when they lift the motor your mounts could be toast, it can get expensive. the tap and the drill thing costed me around 30 bucks and it only took a few hours and a 6 pack of beer to drill the center and tap the sides with a buddy helping out. I went slowly and used alot of grease, not something you want to rush or mess up.

 

bumping this old thread mecheng10 was asking me if I had more pics of the same side piping.
I then remembered I took some pics when I had my bumper off doing my first FFIM like a 1-2 years ago. this is the old setup same side I used to run.

The top pipe curls down to get under the frame as you can see, then it curls around in the fender and under the frame again where it pops right into the engine bay.
From there it goes up and to a 90 on the turbo (not shown).
Most people run their charge pipe this way cause then the pipe does not sit below the cross member, so you wont hit it if you bottom out.
If your intercooler piping is hanging lower than the crossmember, then something has gone wrong.


more of an overview of the whole piping.
The bottom pipe goes through the OEM hole on side of engine bay as you can see.
To fit the washer bottle I just bend the tabs back a little towards the radiator.
I never remove it I like the factory one in the factory spot so it stays there.