Got my 1JZ in and Driveshaft finally mounted and ever since,you can't even run through the gears.

Shaft is supposedly a MKIII front with SC300 rear section.
1JZ with R154 trans.
I replaced the Center support bearing due to the seller that sold it to me advised, obviously due to the bearing was torn up.
Everything for the most part with a little Love installed.tight fit but Figured its how they are Supposed to mount.

Wasn't sure you could really "Cram" the Yoke in there "too far" but is that whats happning?
Whats next?
I haven't tried removing it to see if its very well what it is but Makes since.

 

so wait you have no foward motion at all. In gear it just revs the engine?

 

Well,..engine dosen't Run just yet.
Finishing Up a few things before I crank it...but Use to Sit in it and make sure the shifter and all that was in the right place and just shift through the gears because its actually in a really comfortable position and It won't Shift at all.

I released the ebrake and looked through the old Auto shifter hole while rolling backward and the drifshaft spins fine while mounted,...but Won't allow it to go in gear.

 

If your shifter doesnt shift it has nothing to do with your driveshaft. Check your shift linkage and see if is put on right.

 

Shift linkage meaning..the shifter lever itself?
drops down into the housing Notches & Bolts in at the top (inside the car) with the 4 small bolts?? Only Goes in 1 way RIGHT from what I can tell you.otherwise the angle of the Shifter would be the wrong direction.
You talking Auto shifter linkage?

trans Shifted fine with the leftover Cut driveshaft Yoke in that came on the motor set (left in so it wouldn't drip in my driveway) while I waited to get my Driveshaft Bolts to put it in.
Granted everythings not Fully Tightened Up and torqued down to Max Spec but I can't imagine its gonna move or Sinch up much more.

I will say The Big Rubber isolator at the end of the Shaft that Connects to the Diff is Very Smushed.like its too long - I'm wondering if I'll have to get a Custom isolator thats a tad Skinnier or something??

Still shouldn't really change how far the Yoke Goes into the Back of the transmission.
Car is 5spd in case R154 wasn't seen in the title.

 

Did you have a tight sqeeze with your shaft? Did you by chance remove the transmission case to extend the shifter if you had one of those tranny that requires extension?

Here is my experience. I did a 1jz+r154 on mine too.

Front shaft from R154, Rear shaft from original sc300. It was about 1/2 inch too long (if I remember it right) when both shaft combined. I could have sqeezed it until it fit but I didn't, instead I had a shop cut it down to my measurement and rebalance the shaft. The shaft had to be install in the same position as balance otherwise there will be lots of vibration when driving.

 

Easiest thing is to remove the driveshaft to see if it'll shift. Once you put the car on the ground the driveshaft will shift position and it's meant to have a little back and forth play so that it doesn't bind.

 

have u bled the clutch since the swap? sounds to me like the clutch isn't disengaging

 

bleed the clutch, and please tell me your using the sc300 drive shaft bearing and not the mk3 one. you have o put the sc300 drive shaft bearing on the mk3 front half. um i dono how this happens.. try and "power shift" it into like4th or 2nd or something and see if it still doesnt shift. if the car isnt on or moving you dont REALLY need to push the clutch in...

 

Ok ok ok...lemme Clarify some stuff.
My car doesn't run.
My CMaster cylinder has no fluid yet and I haven't even Pressed the clutch pedal in yet since the trans installed.
Basically: Doing the same thing with no Dshaft,will not work with the d-shaft.You shouldn't have to depress the Clutch to move through gears with car off and Ebrake up.

Before all this I would move through the gears and it would go in fine.Now I don't even wanna force it its so hard.
I work at lexus and bought a brand new SC300 support bearing because the one on it was torn....I knew that much.the Bolt holes Lined right up when installed.
the Real Soarer R154 transmissions (non-remote shifters) you do NOT have to extend the Shifter housing.Only the Supra R154.My Shifter sits in the Perfect position and its Fine.it dosen't match the auto Trans shifter hole but they are No supposed to.
Its Way to far back because the Auto Shifter is So Gay and goes straight forward and back.


I guess I'm gonna either need to get a Custom Rear (Billet Allum or something) Diff bushing made thats thinner, to replace the one on the end of the Driveshaft,or have a 1/2 inch removed from the shaft.It must have no room inside the Trans to Pop into gear.

 

Your right, you will not need to disengage anything if it's not running. You should be able to shift into any gear at anytime if the motor is off.

Toyota/Lexus does not have a damper shaft like domestic. Meaning that you will not have any forgiveness when your transmission bounces around when driving which will cause your drivetrain to tear up quickly.

Toyota fixed the problem by allowing about 1/4"-1-2" shorter than exactly the length from transmission shaft to your damper. So when your transmission is bouncing around, the driveshaft is actually sliding back and forth on your transmisison shaft.

Have you remove the drive shaft as RyanV mention? Try doing that first before you get deep into the problem.

I whipped up this drawing for you.

 

I just recommend the 1pc driveshaft through driftmotion.com for the 1j/R154 its what i did

 

Awesome thanks guys.very informative.

Asked the guy I got the Shaft from today and he said he had it in his car."Tight fit but it worked" he said.Mine does have some romm to improve if i tightened it Up ALL the way,..but not enough to insure No issues.

Bought the shaft for $120 shipped and only needed a new Carrier Bushing ($80) - Now another $50-$80 for cutting/balancing and Still will be under what I didn't want to have to buy anayway. (1peice Alum shaft)

 

Remember you still need at least 1/4" off the exact measurement to ensure that when your tranny is bouncing around , it will not stressed out other componenets.

 

Well turns out after letting a drive shady shop look at it they immead said they couldn't do anything with it due to the machine joints/weld. After tellng him I only needed like 3/4" off it he then got to looking towards to end near the yoke and saying he might be able to take off what was about 3/4 from that side and hopefully get it "true".

Not sure if anyone else has ever shortened a Lexus/Toyota drive shaft but sounds like it's not that easy,....or atleast this place didn't think it was going to be.they are gonna call me later and tell me if it worked or not.