i want to build my motor...i have an extra 2jzge..should i build it?
12-09-09, 06:03 PM
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i want to build my motor...i have an extra 2jzge..should i build it?
i have a na 2jzge from a 92 sc300 and in my car currently i have a 93 and up supra na motor (dont know if there the same). anyways i can just buy a 2jzgte...but does'nt the na head flow better? the blocks are the same except for things here and there. anyways i can slap on some je pisotns...rods, gte bearings, no oil squirters, gte oil pump....come on give me some feedback and if u know of a thread let me know., thanks and any comments welcome.
12-09-09, 06:20 PM
#2
no, the na head does not flow better. You can go with a 2jzgte head or a 1jz head, which is rumored to flow better but no solid proof anywhere. I would look on supraforums for a 1jz head and go from there, unless you want to go na-t and just bulid the motor as is, just get yourself a manifold, a turbo, etc and be on your way
12-09-09, 06:31 PM
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i dont want to just boost it and be on my way, i want to do internals and match the gte shot for shot....what i mean is any little feature that the gte has that the ge doesnt, i want to add. except things i dont need. i have heard so many ge vs gte debates....but what i want to know is if the eingines are the same except for the obvious differences we all know about....can it be done? can a ge be built to do 10-9 seconds in the quarter mile? im very very new to this, i come from the dsm and s2000 side of things and we all know about the dsms, s2000's also can be made super fast with minor mods...but what i want to know is as i drive my sc, i have a ge sitting in the garage....can i build it to same exat specs as a gte? we need to get to the bottom of this debate once and for all...if theres a thread already out there illl kill this one.
12-09-09, 06:41 PM
#4
It's my understanding the the GE and GTE blocks are the same, both share the same forged crank and rods, the pistons are made of the same material but are half a compression point away from each other (the gte's headgasket making up the rest of the compression difference between the 2 engines) The ge block is not machined for piston squirter's, but they can be added if someone wanted to pay for it.
I've also heard that the ge head outflows the gte head stock, but swapping heads opens the aftermarket door for a wide assortment of upgraded parts, stock FFIM makes serviceing the plugs easier, and the COP ignition system allows for greater degree of tune-ability...
I believe some of the big guns in the supra drag world are running ge blocks because they're readily available and just as strong as the gte's..
I've also heard that the ge head outflows the gte head stock, but swapping heads opens the aftermarket door for a wide assortment of upgraded parts, stock FFIM makes serviceing the plugs easier, and the COP ignition system allows for greater degree of tune-ability...
I believe some of the big guns in the supra drag world are running ge blocks because they're readily available and just as strong as the gte's..
12-09-09, 07:19 PM
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If thats the case than do a complete swap. It's more efficient and more cost effective.
i dont want to just boost it and be on my way, i
want to do internals and match the gte shot for shot....what i mean is any little feature that the gte has that the ge doesnt, i want to add. except things i dont need. i have heard so many ge vs gte debates....but what i want to know is if the eingines are the same except for the obvious differences we all know about....can it be done? can a ge be built to do 10-9 seconds in the quarter mile? im very very new to this, i come from the dsm and s2000 side of things and we all know about the dsms, s2000's also can be made super fast with minor mods...but what i want to know is as i drive my sc, i have a ge sitting in the garage....can i build it to same exat specs as a gte? we need to get to the bottom of this debate once and for all...if theres a thread already out there illl kill this one.
want to do internals and match the gte shot for shot....what i mean is any little feature that the gte has that the ge doesnt, i want to add. except things i dont need. i have heard so many ge vs gte debates....but what i want to know is if the eingines are the same except for the obvious differences we all know about....can it be done? can a ge be built to do 10-9 seconds in the quarter mile? im very very new to this, i come from the dsm and s2000 side of things and we all know about the dsms, s2000's also can be made super fast with minor mods...but what i want to know is as i drive my sc, i have a ge sitting in the garage....can i build it to same exat specs as a gte? we need to get to the bottom of this debate once and for all...if theres a thread already out there illl kill this one.
12-10-09, 04:31 AM
#6
tisk tisk sooo much mis info here 
ge and gte rods are not forged they are pressure cast and are durable up to around 800rwhp depending on how aggressive your tune is
cop does not introduce more tuneablility in fact the cop are proving to be a real pain in the a$$ with coil packs going out/melting and clips within the harness get brittle real quick with the high heat introduced by higher boost and they break and make bad connections
in the high hp drag world most still use te good ole realiable dizzy
na head design does outflow gte head , the design of the ge head was designed more agreesively to extract as much hp out of it in na form
in fact in you do some reading going back 2+ yrs and read how many gte setups compared to na-t setups that have blown up you would be shocked ( and please compare apples to apples meaning both on a standalone for a na-t cannot run eff and safely without full standalone)
the ideal setup is to take your ge block and get some toyota gte pistons , send them out get the domes thermal barrier coated , get the skirts on them teflon coated to ward off friction , get some new acl black coated bearings that resist heat and wear throw them in your ge block slap on a gte headgasket and be done with already
i am on a 2.5mm hg on full na-t setup running on full aem and put down alittle over 500ish and have been running 22psi for over 2yrs strong, when i am ready for a fresh bottomend i am going with toyota stuff period , just gte pistons acl bearings on a freshly honed block and have the crank micro polished and fully balanced and call it a day
too many sad stories and people having issues with assembling aftermarket pistons and rods and tolerances being alittle off from manufactuers and motors going up in smoke after spending 4-6k on builds
unless you are shooting for 1000 hp stay with proven toyota stuff but with the added insurance of coating the pistons and bearings
ge and gte rods are not forged they are pressure cast and are durable up to around 800rwhp depending on how aggressive your tune is
cop does not introduce more tuneablility in fact the cop are proving to be a real pain in the a$$ with coil packs going out/melting and clips within the harness get brittle real quick with the high heat introduced by higher boost and they break and make bad connections
in the high hp drag world most still use te good ole realiable dizzy
na head design does outflow gte head , the design of the ge head was designed more agreesively to extract as much hp out of it in na form
in fact in you do some reading going back 2+ yrs and read how many gte setups compared to na-t setups that have blown up you would be shocked ( and please compare apples to apples meaning both on a standalone for a na-t cannot run eff and safely without full standalone)
the ideal setup is to take your ge block and get some toyota gte pistons , send them out get the domes thermal barrier coated , get the skirts on them teflon coated to ward off friction , get some new acl black coated bearings that resist heat and wear throw them in your ge block slap on a gte headgasket and be done with already
i am on a 2.5mm hg on full na-t setup running on full aem and put down alittle over 500ish and have been running 22psi for over 2yrs strong, when i am ready for a fresh bottomend i am going with toyota stuff period , just gte pistons acl bearings on a freshly honed block and have the crank micro polished and fully balanced and call it a day
too many sad stories and people having issues with assembling aftermarket pistons and rods and tolerances being alittle off from manufactuers and motors going up in smoke after spending 4-6k on builds
unless you are shooting for 1000 hp stay with proven toyota stuff but with the added insurance of coating the pistons and bearings
12-10-09, 04:37 AM
#7
with the garbage jdm aristo gte's now coming out of japan and man do i see alot of this here in florida its better to just do a ge block with gte internals fresh and that way you know what you got
a full gte swap with all the essentials and wiring and headaches will run you in the 6k+ range depending on whos doing the labor and you are still on stock twins jdm twins at that for half that price give or take you can do a na-t setup and make more hp with more headroom to grow
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12-10-09, 05:58 AM
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thats what i wanted to hear.....say no more. good look gspec and lexforlife, i do agree on the coil on plug i have seen them melt on top before on some talons. now my last question to u lexforlife....with accomodating mods.....can gte pistons on ge block get me into the 10's? that was the only reason i wanted to go with je or wiseco...to make sure i get there without major failure...and as for standalone im leaning toward microtechefi. anyways man let me know...my goal is low 11's high 10's in my sc300.
12-10-09, 10:15 AM
#10
thats what i wanted to hear.....say no more. good look gspec and lexforlife, i do agree on the coil on plug i have seen them melt on top before on some talons. now my last question to u lexforlife....with accomodating mods.....can gte pistons on ge block get me into the 10's? that was the only reason i wanted to go with je or wiseco...to make sure i get there without major failure...and as for standalone im leaning toward microtechefi. anyways man let me know...my goal is low 11's high 10's in my sc300.
right clutch , right tranny , right wheels and drag radials , right launch , right turbo combo setup , there are many variables here that have nothing to do with stock gte pistons or aftermarket
you dont need 800hp to get into the 10's just the right combo of parts and outstanding track skills
12-10-09, 10:18 AM
#11
cop or dizzy has little to no diff in tuneability but from all the eng failures i have seen on a full gte setup its either #6 and #5 pistons running lean because of manny design at high sustained boost or motor gets shot to hell because of failed coil pack and/or clips melting off i have personally been at dyno's time and time again and seen problem after problem with coils , now i am not saying cop is not good but if you are na-t my point is no need to rush on out and swap over to cop other than for looks
12-10-09, 10:39 AM
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tisk tisk sooo much mis info here
ge and gte rods are not forged they are pressure cast and are durable up to around 800rwhp depending on how aggressive your tune is
cop does not introduce more tuneablility in fact the cop are proving to be a real pain in the a$$ with coil packs going out/melting and clips within the harness get brittle real quick with the high heat introduced by higher boost and they break and make bad connections
in the high hp drag world most still use te good ole realiable dizzy
na head design does outflow gte head , the design of the ge head was designed more agreesively to extract as much hp out of it in na form
in fact in you do some reading going back 2+ yrs and read how many gte setups compared to na-t setups that have blown up you would be shocked ( and please compare apples to apples meaning both on a standalone for a na-t cannot run eff and safely without full standalone)
the ideal setup is to take your ge block and get some toyota gte pistons , send them out get the domes thermal barrier coated , get the skirts on them teflon coated to ward off friction , get some new acl black coated bearings that resist heat and wear throw them in your ge block slap on a gte headgasket and be done with already
i am on a 2.5mm hg on full na-t setup running on full aem and put down alittle over 500ish and have been running 22psi for over 2yrs strong, when i am ready for a fresh bottomend i am going with toyota stuff period , just gte pistons acl bearings on a freshly honed block and have the crank micro polished and fully balanced and call it a day
too many sad stories and people having issues with assembling aftermarket pistons and rods and tolerances being alittle off from manufactuers and motors going up in smoke after spending 4-6k on builds
unless you are shooting for 1000 hp stay with proven toyota stuff but with the added insurance of coating the pistons and bearings
ge and gte rods are not forged they are pressure cast and are durable up to around 800rwhp depending on how aggressive your tune is
cop does not introduce more tuneablility in fact the cop are proving to be a real pain in the a$$ with coil packs going out/melting and clips within the harness get brittle real quick with the high heat introduced by higher boost and they break and make bad connections
in the high hp drag world most still use te good ole realiable dizzy
na head design does outflow gte head , the design of the ge head was designed more agreesively to extract as much hp out of it in na form
in fact in you do some reading going back 2+ yrs and read how many gte setups compared to na-t setups that have blown up you would be shocked ( and please compare apples to apples meaning both on a standalone for a na-t cannot run eff and safely without full standalone)
the ideal setup is to take your ge block and get some toyota gte pistons , send them out get the domes thermal barrier coated , get the skirts on them teflon coated to ward off friction , get some new acl black coated bearings that resist heat and wear throw them in your ge block slap on a gte headgasket and be done with already
i am on a 2.5mm hg on full na-t setup running on full aem and put down alittle over 500ish and have been running 22psi for over 2yrs strong, when i am ready for a fresh bottomend i am going with toyota stuff period , just gte pistons acl bearings on a freshly honed block and have the crank micro polished and fully balanced and call it a day
too many sad stories and people having issues with assembling aftermarket pistons and rods and tolerances being alittle off from manufactuers and motors going up in smoke after spending 4-6k on builds
unless you are shooting for 1000 hp stay with proven toyota stuff but with the added insurance of coating the pistons and bearings
but are u being bias for the na-t cause u have one(not trying to offend u in any way)
cause i was planning to do a gte swap down the road....but your statement brings me back of should i just go BACK down the road of na-t....i mean if u can just swap internals from the gte to the GE and both motors are bout the same thing i would do NA-T!!!
12-10-09, 12:17 PM
#13
i understand that the NA-T is a better option if ur on a budget...
but are u being bias for the na-t cause u have one(not trying to offend u in any way)
cause i was planning to do a gte swap down the road....but your statement brings me back of should i just go BACK down the road of na-t....i mean if u can just swap internals from the gte to the GE and both motors are bout the same thing i would do NA-T!!!
but are u being bias for the na-t cause u have one(not trying to offend u in any way)
cause i was planning to do a gte swap down the road....but your statement brings me back of should i just go BACK down the road of na-t....i mean if u can just swap internals from the gte to the GE and both motors are bout the same thing i would do NA-T!!!
and yes either buy a gte shortblock or just swap in gte internals or at a min just add thicker headgasket although gte internals with gte headgasket is a more reliable and efficient setup by far
12-10-09, 12:23 PM
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no sir not bias for me doing my own work and having the resources avail i can /could go either way i just find a na-t setup to be more then sufficient for my needs
and yes either buy a gte shortblock or just swap in gte internals or at a min just add thicker headgasket although gte internals with gte headgasket is a more reliable and efficient setup by far
and yes either buy a gte shortblock or just swap in gte internals or at a min just add thicker headgasket although gte internals with gte headgasket is a more reliable and efficient setup by far
