VSV Bypassing...Heating blows cold...
11-12-12, 05:55 PM
#1
VSV Bypassing...Heating blows cold...
Hey Guys, I followed the DIY thread on this site to bypass the VSV. (Unplug vacuum line from VSV than plug different hose into mechanism), and I haven't tried to see if that did the trick...but I would like some suggestions...(Everybody's situation is different!) So the deal is when we drove the SC400 for an hour and a half, the heat worked, for 1 hour of that 1 1/2 hours. Basically, it's intermittent. The fan blows, all controls work, but the air that is blown is cold, even when the temp of the car is up to temp, is just regular temp air. I know there were some threads on this stuff, but I just want some ideas from fellow Clublexers. So if the air blows warm after I bypass the VSV, that means the VSV is bad.
Yep...even NM get's cold...any ideas and suggestions would be great. Just throwing this out there. Thanks
Yep...even NM get's cold...any ideas and suggestions would be great. Just throwing this out there. Thanks
11-12-12, 06:01 PM
#2
1JZ Single SC400
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That would be my guess. There is a DIY in here by OLT that fixes the problem for around 25 bucks for a part off of Ebay, if my memory serves me correctly. Mine did the same thing and I just switched the vacuum line around, forgot which one, and it has worked ever since. Thats all the problems I ever had with mine....
11-14-12, 07:32 PM
#5
1JZ Single SC400
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Put the lines back like they was. Try and remove the one way check valve and just use a one piece rubber vacuum line, and see if your heat works. If not, turn the valve around, and retry. Rev the car to 3K and see if it doesn't come on.
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11-14-12, 08:12 PM
#8
Let me shed some light on this for everyone. My heater quit working also, but like 2-3 years ago. After I got home, I checked the coolant level and the overflow, both were good. I went messing around on the heater control valve, no matter what I did, I couldnt get heat. I disconnected the vacuum line on top of the unit itself. On this line, there is a one way or check valve that is inline. When you disconnect the line, the check valve is about 1 1/2inches back, then another short piece of rubber vacuum line. I removed this valve completely, I ran a new vacuum line the same distance as the one before, set the heater to the floor, turned to hot, then revved the motor twice above 3K, and bammmmm, the heater is working. I dont know what this does exactly, but mine works and it has been like this ever since then, still works with the swap also.
(in bold is what I don't understand) Just looking for a clarification...Thanks for the help so far!
02-03-19, 10:47 AM
#10
Driver School Candidate
I just need the vacuum switching valve, but...
Isolated mine to bad heater vacuum switching valve. BUT all the replacement ones online have a modular connector to snap two wire source into and mine has hard-wired two wires coming into it with wires that run to female modular plug, like in your photo. So, none of the ones online seem to match my wiring needs. Ideas???
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