wanganstyl

iTrader: (5)

there is no avoiding re-wiring. if you are afraid of wires, then pony up some $$$$ and have the professionals handle it for you.

AEM lets you avoid some wiring, but the 2jz-ge and 2jz-gte have many fundemental differences in electronics, if you want to run a 2jzgte engine you will have to accomidate those differences no matter what people tell you.

if you add up the money figures in my last post and think about it, you will figure out my point.


if you want 2jzgte in a non original 2jzgte car, always wiring is involved, no matter how much money you throw at it.

a 2jz-GE is a NA engine (usually with distributor),
2jz-gte is COP (distributor less ignition), has 1 crank position sensor and 2 VR cam sensors instead of a distributor

-(if you dont know how a distributor works visit howstuffworks.com)

also, the 2jzgte has 2 turbos, their related sequential system electronics and such- electronics can be utilized or removed - if you buy a AEM for a 2jz-GE and plug it into the 2jz-ge harness/car, then Bonehead stuff a 2jz-gte into the car......

the aem has no way of connecting to those GTE(turbo specific) sensors and solinoids etc because the wiring does not exist.

so guess what?

time to bust out the soldering iron to convert NA wiring to turbo GTE wiring, etc etc etc.

if you want to know whats involved, check the link on my sig. XLS spreadsheet will tell you whats involved if you really want to read.

AD_SC3

iTrader: (1)

Soo buy the AEM for a BPU?

wanganstyl

iTrader: (5)

sure, if your wiring is setup for a bpu MK4 usdm supra tt

buy the aem to fit your wiring setup: or configure the aem to be hybrid; i.e. NA 2jzge AEM configured to run COP and DIS (like jdm 2jzgte)

or you can re-pin the jdm ecu wiring to work for usdm

its really rather simple. if you dont understand that there are:

3 different ecus we are talking about:

USDM turbo, USDM NA, JDM turbo

wiring native to your car will be:

usdm NA. you do not have a factory turbo car, nor do you have a JDM factory turbo car

if installing 2jzgte:
you need to adapt both wiring and ecu to accomidate turbo power.

aem is a computer, computer = worthless if the connections are not there.

give anyone a top of the line laptop and no power plug....they'll be 100% pissed off in 2 hours :P

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

have you thought about just turbo'ing your existing 2jzge with a headgasket.
if you run an AEM on an na-t I can tell you there is hardly any wiring involved, except connecting the map and iat sensor in the engine bay (5 very short wires). takes like 10 minutes, and then you already have an AEM with a big single turbo.
pretty much what I did except i am pushing 9psi on the stock headgasket cause im crazy like that.

wanganstyl

iTrader: (5)

he's right on the simplicity part, NA+T with NA AEM (keeping the distributor, or DLi for OBD2 SC300's) is the easiest way to control power properly with these cars.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

NA-T is the way to go. People underestimate soo much. Swapping to a TT block is kind of redundant, you want the TT head to convert to COP if anything, that's not even really that necessary. IMHO the only real reason you would ever need oil squirters is for serious track time (autoX not 1/4). Make sure you motor is healthy, slap on a HG w/ some ARP hardware, get a standalone like AEM, boost the hell out of it. GG.

AD_SC3

iTrader: (1)

NA-T is nice, but I rather not boost a high millage motor. My plan is to buy a jdm 2J swap and run the usdm ecu, so I can pass emissions.

wanganstyl

iTrader: (5)

oil squirters would actually be deleted for serious track time if possible, need more oil pressure- in this sense, for high rpm high power builds the NA block is possibly prefered.

you want the TT head to avoid heating up the air you just intercooled with the turbo......

many people want to remove the clumsy and ugly and (in the way) dizzy of the na+t setup, that may be a big factor.

IF you have a AEM in your NA+t, you can easily swap to a DLI ignitor, would require a hall sensor install or VRx2 +1 crank pos sensor ala GTE style


the NA+t itake manifold X over engine is also slightly irritating, as well as its inability to run OEM piping for intercooling, causing the need for annoying and ugly fitting piping. NA engine was not designed for turbo piping, fitting these things is annoying.

Realistically, if you are going AEM:

easiest route:

get a DLI car (so 96-99)
buy bolt on IS300 supercharger kit
tune it.

NA+t is not for everyone, not all NA-t setups are as good as a boostlogic+AEM setup.

few can afford a proper NA+T kit, I refused to run shoddy electronics and hardware, and that is the reason why I did full monty of swap.

the uglyness of NA+t do come out also:

physical uglyness

cold pipe to throttle body has to go on top of the hot turbo
lines dont fit that well
dizzy (for most sc300) is annoyingly close to intake and single turbo

realistics of cobbled togeather turbo kits:

without AEM and proper injectors its rubbish. SAFC+ na ecu, is NOT a solution.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

uhhhh what? I am going to assume you are talking about the intake manifold..... the head has absolutely no difference in cooling the air charge..

It's slightly more in depth than that, alot of people have blown motors w/o knowing the little tiny settings to change in the AEM that causes timing alterations and big boom. Not downplaying the conversion at all, just saying.

For 99% of the people out there, NA-T is more than enough. You can make 500+ to the wheels all day every day through stock block and a few upgraded parts upstairs.

2turbo1sup

iTrader: (2)

If you are worried about money, you shouldn't be really doing this swap. Splicing wires and shoehorning an engine that's entirely from another car isn't exactly cheap.

2turbo1sup

iTrader: (2)

hes talking about the difference between front facing intake from a GTE head vs the top mounted from a GE which routes directly above the turbo on an NA-T.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Ty for clarifying that for me there guy.

2turbo1sup

iTrader: (2)

no problem, i'll answer more obvious questions later

wanganstyl

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I'm refering to the intake manifold's relationship to the turbocharger, and the proximity to turbo heat is slightly disturbingly close to the distributor.

Bad ecu/chip tuning blows up stock turbo engines on stock engines all the time


The issue with Na+t kits is eBay.

If all Na+t kits were by boztlogik or similar quality and durability, then it might be better. For a real efficient Na+t, you'd have to fit a perfect fmic and front facing intake manifold as well to efficiently pipe the airflow

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

While not the most accurate post, this does become a big factor. I've tuned NA-T setups with IATs over 170 while under boost. This was with heat wrap and blanket. thank god he was spraying meth.