1jzgte R154 swap 1997 SC300
#18
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THanks guys for the suggestions, I switched back to the oem crank and alternator pulleys and left the rest of the shiney ones on.
I finally finished hooking up most of the wiring and started my engine yesterday! It was a success, started right up and was idling quieter and better than my stock 2jzge engine. Everything seems to be working fine, the temp gauge worked without any mods and I added a msd tach adapter to get the rpms working. Only issue is that my check engine light just started blinking, i am not sure what is causes this. Does anyone have any suggestions. Well on a good note, now all I have to do is just wire in my piggyback ecu, aem wideband and boost controller and gauge and Its a go as long as i done run into any other issues.
Oh I was also able to get around that pesky neutral saftey switch inside the car without doing any mods underneath the car on the tranny or under the hood (I will inform you guys of the color of the wires that need to be patched into once i check it again so i dont tell you the wrong colors).
I had one quick question for all you 1jz guys out there. What throttle cable did you guys use?
I heard you can use a 2jzgte from a mk4 supra or one from a 4cylinder camary(years i dont know). I have the 2jzgte throttle cable but it seem like it is too long. What did you guys do too get your throttle cable to fit right.
Any help is much appreciated, would like to get my car running and moving in a day or two to test the baby out!
-GP
I finally finished hooking up most of the wiring and started my engine yesterday! It was a success, started right up and was idling quieter and better than my stock 2jzge engine. Everything seems to be working fine, the temp gauge worked without any mods and I added a msd tach adapter to get the rpms working. Only issue is that my check engine light just started blinking, i am not sure what is causes this. Does anyone have any suggestions. Well on a good note, now all I have to do is just wire in my piggyback ecu, aem wideband and boost controller and gauge and Its a go as long as i done run into any other issues.
Oh I was also able to get around that pesky neutral saftey switch inside the car without doing any mods underneath the car on the tranny or under the hood (I will inform you guys of the color of the wires that need to be patched into once i check it again so i dont tell you the wrong colors).
I had one quick question for all you 1jz guys out there. What throttle cable did you guys use?
I heard you can use a 2jzgte from a mk4 supra or one from a 4cylinder camary(years i dont know). I have the 2jzgte throttle cable but it seem like it is too long. What did you guys do too get your throttle cable to fit right.
Any help is much appreciated, would like to get my car running and moving in a day or two to test the baby out!
-GP
#19
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Nice man! Good to hear its up and running! I used the 4cyl Camry cable for mine but it seems like it's too long too. Its just a couple inches though so it doesn't make a real difference. Also, what piggyback and boost controller are you running? I have a AFC Neo and a Greddy Profec B-II right now, but I still need to install the Greddy.
Ninja edit: Also, where did you get that engine? S*** looks CLEAN!!!
Ninja edit: Also, where did you get that engine? S*** looks CLEAN!!!
#20
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a blinking CEL means that the car is misfiring and that the cat is at risk of damage. Did it sound like it was running rough? Either that or the ECU has codes in it that it's trying to display. I would let it run for a little while first and see if it clears up on its own.
time for some vids!
time for some vids!
#21
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Thanks guys,
I think that I am going to use the supra tt accelerator cable(which is what we have been calling the throttle cable- as this is what toyota actually lists the part as).
I am actually using a manual boost controller = joe pro twin boost controller.
For the piggyback i wanted to try the venom piggyback ecu and see how it works since my engine is mostly stock with a few minor upgrades here and there.
As for the engine I got it from a spot called jdmsource i believe. THey sent pics, compression test results, and vin before i completed the sale. Then they also give the standard warranty that everyone else offers. Price was pretty good including the 5mt, ecu, and uncut harness.
I think that I am going to use the supra tt accelerator cable(which is what we have been calling the throttle cable- as this is what toyota actually lists the part as).
I am actually using a manual boost controller = joe pro twin boost controller.
For the piggyback i wanted to try the venom piggyback ecu and see how it works since my engine is mostly stock with a few minor upgrades here and there.
As for the engine I got it from a spot called jdmsource i believe. THey sent pics, compression test results, and vin before i completed the sale. Then they also give the standard warranty that everyone else offers. Price was pretty good including the 5mt, ecu, and uncut harness.
#22
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a blinking CEL means that the car is misfiring and that the cat is at risk of damage. Did it sound like it was running rough? Either that or the ECU has codes in it that it's trying to display. I would let it run for a little while first and see if it clears up on its own.
time for some vids!
time for some vids!
But the engine actually sounded really smooth, it sounded better than my stock engine almost. When I first got it running the light was not on, I think it could have something to do with the way that i tried to bypass the neutral saftey switch possibly???? but not sure. TOmorrow i will try and diagnosis this problem tho and hopefully its not to serious or clears up by letting it run a little.
I will try to get some vids of engine up soon.
THnks
#23
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What exactly do you mean when u refer to the cat at risk of damage and y would this be the case?
But the engine actually sounded really smooth, it sounded better than my stock engine almost. When I first got it running the light was not on, I think it could have something to do with the way that i tried to bypass the neutral saftey switch possibly???? but not sure. TOmorrow i will try and diagnosis this problem tho and hopefully its not to serious or clears up by letting it run a little.
I will try to get some vids of engine up soon.
THnks
But the engine actually sounded really smooth, it sounded better than my stock engine almost. When I first got it running the light was not on, I think it could have something to do with the way that i tried to bypass the neutral saftey switch possibly???? but not sure. TOmorrow i will try and diagnosis this problem tho and hopefully its not to serious or clears up by letting it run a little.
I will try to get some vids of engine up soon.
THnks
Im not sure if the neutral safety switch has anything to do with this, as i have not had to wire up one. See if you can get some codes out of the ECU, but then again im not sure the standard OBD1 procedure works (paper clip from E1 to TE1 on the toyota diagnostic port, CEL will flash codes).
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update:
I got the check engine light to go off. It was the traction control/abs unit that i was pluggin up that gave me that error. I unplugged it and check engine light is off but abs light is on but i guess thats fine with me. No more traction control or abs i guess is what i have to deal with, unless anyone knows how to get either abs or traction control working on a jdm 1jz(more interested in abs than traction).
-GP
I got the check engine light to go off. It was the traction control/abs unit that i was pluggin up that gave me that error. I unplugged it and check engine light is off but abs light is on but i guess thats fine with me. No more traction control or abs i guess is what i have to deal with, unless anyone knows how to get either abs or traction control working on a jdm 1jz(more interested in abs than traction).
-GP
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I am still searching for how to get the ABS working or the light to go off and how to get my reverse lights working again also. Besides for that the car seems to be running fine! I just have to install the manual boost controller and find some spacers so my wheels clear the supra tt front calipers (any suggestion on what works and where to get them from?)
I will be getting some pics up of the interior once i clean it up a little bit and put the seats back in so you can see how it the shifter sits in a r154 swap from a soarer into a 97 sc300 with cutting done to the tunnel and closing the automatic hole. Please stay tuned!
I will be getting some pics up of the interior once i clean it up a little bit and put the seats back in so you can see how it the shifter sits in a r154 swap from a soarer into a 97 sc300 with cutting done to the tunnel and closing the automatic hole. Please stay tuned!
#28
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No updates besides that my damn wheels dont fit with the supra upgrade brake kit which sucks cause now i dont know about getting the car out until i can find some spacers. I am going to the shop on saturday to do some of the wiring and hopefully get the reverse and abs situated correctly.
#29
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Damn thats suck, i am so lucky the wheel that i got will clear the LS4 brakes.
I didnt even look at the body plug that i was suppose to check,call Dr Tweak it has to be in the wiring because we both have the same issues.
Let me know how that goes.
I didnt even look at the body plug that i was suppose to check,call Dr Tweak it has to be in the wiring because we both have the same issues.
Let me know how that goes.
#30
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update:
Just ordered some ichiba 10mm spacer so should have them on tuesday and installed by wednesday! Hopefully by then I will have the ABS and reverse lights figured out and installed the boost controller too!
Just ordered some ichiba 10mm spacer so should have them on tuesday and installed by wednesday! Hopefully by then I will have the ABS and reverse lights figured out and installed the boost controller too!