Soarer MT clutch engagement help
02-01-09, 12:12 PM
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Soarer MT clutch engagement help
i have a 93 Soarer manual swapped about a year ago now that i have changed the transmission i am having issue. i do not know if they are normal or not but i need some help.
i am running a soarer r154 with mk3 master and mk3 slave.
at first i could not get the transmission to disengage from gear. meaning when its in first and the clutch is depressed nothing happened except i could watch the slave extend and retract minimally.
while depressing the clutch i pried the fork forward some and now that problem is no longer an issue. the clutch disengages properly as well as engages with no known issues. why would this happen? its as if the slave would not extend any further. and pedal feel was awful.
clutch was bled properly and no air bubble. the pedal does not stick or anything of that nature.
Now my current issue is when i crank the car in the air and its in neutral the wheels spin about 2-3mph on the speedo. when i depress the clutch then they stop. also when i release the clutch(still in neutral) i hear the clutch come in contact with the flywheel/pressure plate and they begin to move again. i can pull up the ebrake and its fine no wheel spin and no change in engine noice or load. and when i depress the clutch and go into gear i do not feel it engage or clunk as if the clutch was not fully disengaged.
i have changed the adjustment point on my pedals and bled the system about 12 times now. the travel in the slave in very minimal. im stumped.
so is it normal for the wheels to roll when in neutral and not on the ground? i wouldnt imagine so but i dunno. help me please
i am running a soarer r154 with mk3 master and mk3 slave.
at first i could not get the transmission to disengage from gear. meaning when its in first and the clutch is depressed nothing happened except i could watch the slave extend and retract minimally.
while depressing the clutch i pried the fork forward some and now that problem is no longer an issue. the clutch disengages properly as well as engages with no known issues. why would this happen? its as if the slave would not extend any further. and pedal feel was awful.
clutch was bled properly and no air bubble. the pedal does not stick or anything of that nature.
Now my current issue is when i crank the car in the air and its in neutral the wheels spin about 2-3mph on the speedo. when i depress the clutch then they stop. also when i release the clutch(still in neutral) i hear the clutch come in contact with the flywheel/pressure plate and they begin to move again. i can pull up the ebrake and its fine no wheel spin and no change in engine noice or load. and when i depress the clutch and go into gear i do not feel it engage or clunk as if the clutch was not fully disengaged.
i have changed the adjustment point on my pedals and bled the system about 12 times now. the travel in the slave in very minimal. im stumped.
so is it normal for the wheels to roll when in neutral and not on the ground? i wouldnt imagine so but i dunno. help me please
02-01-09, 07:17 PM
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yes ive done several transmissions swaps and this is the first time ive encountered this problem. second transmission in this car alone. the slave and master are brand new along with the clutch.
02-01-09, 11:32 PM
#6
Make sure you installed your clutch disc in the right direction. A member here described symptoms very similar and installed his disc backwards, he was sure he did it right too.
It is possible that your master cylinder needs to be shimmed if you don't have any more room to adjust. Not really sure what you mean by the feel of the clutch is horrible as that could mean alot of things. But if it doesn't have any free travel whatsoever and it is adjusted out to the furthest point then you may have to shim it. If it does have 2-6" of free travel and then begins to build pressure then it can has to be either improperly bled/adjusted, screwed up something with the clutch install, or possible bad slave (highly unlikely if brand new but still happens). That's pretty much all it can be man.
02-02-09, 11:56 AM
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I'm experiencing a similar anomoly with my soarer 5 speed transmission and mkIII supra clutch setup. I'm using the Toyota Supra mkIII slave cylinder and am wondering if it is mismatched with our sc300 master cylinder some how? 
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02-02-09, 02:07 PM
#9
^^^^ make sure of this..... and yes there have been people that say that they have had to shim the SC300 master cylinder with aftermarket clutches and MKIII slaves. Mine worked perfectly with the RPS MAX Stage 3, but I installed the MKIII master cylinder. I had to adjust it after about a month, but flawless ever since.
02-02-09, 02:47 PM
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^^^^ make sure of this..... and yes there have been people that say that they have had to shim the SC300 master cylinder with aftermarket clutches and MKIII slaves. Mine worked perfectly with the RPS MAX Stage 3, but I installed the MKIII master cylinder. I had to adjust it after about a month, but flawless ever since.
Also, what do you guys mean by "shimming" the sc300 master cylinder?
02-02-09, 03:31 PM
#11
When I say shimming, I mean shimming. Lol. You have to actually open up the master cylinder and use washers or something of the sort to change how long or how short the piston can move in there. This will change how far the piston moves, therefore changing how much pressure is in the line, more pressure in the line and farther piston travel in the master cylinder means more piston travel in the slave cylinder. So by doing this the slave cylinder can push the clutch fork back farther....etc. etc. I know there's threads on here about doing it.
02-02-09, 03:56 PM
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The pedal adjustment. After a month or so things started to break in and I had to readjust the freeplay in the clutch pedal.
When I say shimming, I mean shimming. Lol. You have to actually open up the master cylinder and use washers or something of the sort to change how long or how short the piston can move in there. This will change how far the piston moves, therefore changing how much pressure is in the line, more pressure in the line and farther piston travel in the master cylinder means more piston travel in the slave cylinder. So by doing this the slave cylinder can push the clutch fork back farther....etc. etc. I know there's threads on here about doing it.
When I say shimming, I mean shimming. Lol. You have to actually open up the master cylinder and use washers or something of the sort to change how long or how short the piston can move in there. This will change how far the piston moves, therefore changing how much pressure is in the line, more pressure in the line and farther piston travel in the master cylinder means more piston travel in the slave cylinder. So by doing this the slave cylinder can push the clutch fork back farther....etc. etc. I know there's threads on here about doing it.
. Assuming this does indeed increase the push rod's traveled distance in the slave cylinder, how do you know if you're over-driving the pressure plate and pushing too far (thus damaging it over time)?
Last edited by dejacky; 02-02-09 at 04:10 PM.
02-02-09, 04:43 PM
#13
Before any of this though I would make definately sure that everything was installed correctly via TSRM, system was bled properly, and pedal adjustment is within spec. If those aren't right to begin with then you're pissin in the wind.
02-26-09, 03:32 PM
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Ok, So I have been hearing very harsh chattering from my rps max pressure plate with 6 puck clutch. The car has been barely running for 3 days so its been there since day 1.
Which way is the disk supposed to face!!! I followed the damn fsm and looked at how the stock disk faces and followed that. It says that the elevated spring side should face the front of the engine. Now I researched after having this problem and this guy says on mkiv.com
"On all aftermarket disks, the cone section faces the rear of the car. This is opposite of the stock disk shown in the picture. "
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/clutch/index.html
Of course this is for the 6spd, but now I'm double guessing whether or not I installed it right.
I've already torn out the exhaust and driveshaft and about to tackle the bellhousing bolts. I Just need to know which way the disk is supposed to face so I can either take the tranny out and turn it around, or just bolt everything back up again.
Which way is the disk supposed to face!!! I followed the damn fsm and looked at how the stock disk faces and followed that. It says that the elevated spring side should face the front of the engine. Now I researched after having this problem and this guy says on mkiv.com
"On all aftermarket disks, the cone section faces the rear of the car. This is opposite of the stock disk shown in the picture. "
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/clutch/index.html
Of course this is for the 6spd, but now I'm double guessing whether or not I installed it right.
I've already torn out the exhaust and driveshaft and about to tackle the bellhousing bolts. I Just need to know which way the disk is supposed to face so I can either take the tranny out and turn it around, or just bolt everything back up again.