My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!
Keep it up.
02-02-09, 12:35 AM
#34
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hope you dont have any issues with the knock sensors. I noticed you said you swapped them. This was a nightmare and had to get a complete new harness due to that. I tried even wiring back in with shielded wiring.
02-02-09, 08:08 PM
#40
Took this big bastich off today. Had to remove the exhaust midsection first, which is VERY heavy. I damn near dropped it on my face.
Driveshaft is held on with 3- 17mm bolts. The lexus service manual says to pry with a 'screwdriver' in the holes to back the driveshaft out...yea right, I'm not keen on broken pieces of screwdriver flying towards my face.
I ended up using a medium sized prybar and had to REALLY work it back and forth to get the rubber companion flange to pop off the diff flange, or 'FRANGE' as the service manual says.
This rubber companion flange is attached to the driveshaft, and dulls vibration. Boost Logic uses this piece on even their 1500hp cars, so it's not the weak link I was led to believe.
R154 Soarer yoke on the left and W58 yoke on the right. The R154 looks to be slightly longer too. My original plan was to have a shop drill out the stakes, and put in a new universal joint with the Soarer R154 yoke and call it a day, but I haven't found a shop willing to do that yet.
EDIT-scratch that plan, noone wants to touch that job. I'm going to take a measurement and order a custom driveshaft from Boost Logic.
Driveshaft is held on with 3- 17mm bolts. The lexus service manual says to pry with a 'screwdriver' in the holes to back the driveshaft out...yea right, I'm not keen on broken pieces of screwdriver flying towards my face.
I ended up using a medium sized prybar and had to REALLY work it back and forth to get the rubber companion flange to pop off the diff flange, or 'FRANGE' as the service manual says.
This rubber companion flange is attached to the driveshaft, and dulls vibration. Boost Logic uses this piece on even their 1500hp cars, so it's not the weak link I was led to believe.
R154 Soarer yoke on the left and W58 yoke on the right. The R154 looks to be slightly longer too. My original plan was to have a shop drill out the stakes, and put in a new universal joint with the Soarer R154 yoke and call it a day, but I haven't found a shop willing to do that yet.
EDIT-scratch that plan, noone wants to touch that job. I'm going to take a measurement and order a custom driveshaft from Boost Logic.
Last edited by RyanV; 02-09-09 at 11:23 AM.
02-08-09, 08:37 AM
#41
Well, I ran into a few snags as to be expected.
1. Someone didn't send me all the R154 clutch washers like I thought I was getting so I can't get the tranny installed until sometime next week.
2. I could not remove the oil pans. The factory used some silver **** that has an unbelievable hold. So I left it and just replaced the rear main seal
3. I'm not sure, but I'm hoping that my headgasket isn't seeping oil at the rear. Once I get it running I'll do the leak down to see what's up with that, because it could've been a valvecover leak.
4. The Gates radiator hoses I ordered about 3 weeks ago haven't shown up yet. I guess they're being walked all the way to me.
All that aside, I have got some stuff knocked out.
My SC300 is 95', so it has the Oval Alternator plug coming off the body harness. The 1jz is out of a 92' model, and has the round plug attached to the engine harness.
Although the 1jz ALT wires are a slightly thicker gauge, the colors still match up.
Here, I've cut both connectors off, and switched to the round ALT connector so I can use the 1jz ALT, since it look's like new.
This ought to sound nice.
More or less, the motor is ready. The tranny is not. NOTE: you have to use the 1jz or 2jz power steering pump since the 2jzge fluid resevoir would hit the throttlebody(my neighbor pointed this out)
Here's the extended harness work.
Here's the rear main seal and OEM pilot bearing installed. With the pilot bearing you gently tap it in to get it started, then you use a socket that only contacts the outer rim and gently tap it in.
Thanks to OneJay, I got my heater hose routing correct. I found this small hose at Autozone. Part#4383 It allows you to make that sharp 180bend off the back of the 1jz block(once you trim the hose to fit right, of course) back up to the heater switch over near the charcoal can. I also might reuse the small metal tube that connects off the heater core(since you dont need it anymore) to help make that hose fit just right.
The only major thing's left are stabbing the motor, and taking the driveshaft measurement.
I've got plenty of other little thing's to do still.
jumper R73 to fix my tachometer
bypass fuel ecu to 12v constant
install A/C condenser(whenever it gets here)
install intercooler
1. Someone didn't send me all the R154 clutch washers like I thought I was getting so I can't get the tranny installed until sometime next week.
2. I could not remove the oil pans. The factory used some silver **** that has an unbelievable hold. So I left it and just replaced the rear main seal
3. I'm not sure, but I'm hoping that my headgasket isn't seeping oil at the rear. Once I get it running I'll do the leak down to see what's up with that, because it could've been a valvecover leak.
4. The Gates radiator hoses I ordered about 3 weeks ago haven't shown up yet. I guess they're being walked all the way to me.
All that aside, I have got some stuff knocked out.
My SC300 is 95', so it has the Oval Alternator plug coming off the body harness. The 1jz is out of a 92' model, and has the round plug attached to the engine harness.
Although the 1jz ALT wires are a slightly thicker gauge, the colors still match up.
Here, I've cut both connectors off, and switched to the round ALT connector so I can use the 1jz ALT, since it look's like new.
This ought to sound nice.
More or less, the motor is ready. The tranny is not. NOTE: you have to use the 1jz or 2jz power steering pump since the 2jzge fluid resevoir would hit the throttlebody(my neighbor pointed this out)
Here's the extended harness work.
Here's the rear main seal and OEM pilot bearing installed. With the pilot bearing you gently tap it in to get it started, then you use a socket that only contacts the outer rim and gently tap it in.
Thanks to OneJay, I got my heater hose routing correct. I found this small hose at Autozone. Part#4383 It allows you to make that sharp 180bend off the back of the 1jz block(once you trim the hose to fit right, of course) back up to the heater switch over near the charcoal can. I also might reuse the small metal tube that connects off the heater core(since you dont need it anymore) to help make that hose fit just right.
The only major thing's left are stabbing the motor, and taking the driveshaft measurement.
I've got plenty of other little thing's to do still.
jumper R73 to fix my tachometer
bypass fuel ecu to 12v constant
install A/C condenser(whenever it gets here)
install intercooler
Last edited by RyanV; 07-15-11 at 05:03 PM.
02-08-09, 12:12 PM
#42
My car is From Boston, MA. originally. It doesn't have any rust except for one spot under the A/C condenser along the support.
It isn't too bad, but I decided to fix it since I'm replacing the a/c condenser anyways.
Here's the rust starting to take over the support.
Harbor freight sells these great low cost sanding attachments that you hook up to any old drill.
Good enough for me, it's not an F'n showcar anyways..
Here's the support with the rust converter doing it's job. It turns black witin 24hrs, then you can hit it with some rust-o-leum
It isn't too bad, but I decided to fix it since I'm replacing the a/c condenser anyways.
Here's the rust starting to take over the support.
Harbor freight sells these great low cost sanding attachments that you hook up to any old drill.
Good enough for me, it's not an F'n showcar anyways..
Here's the support with the rust converter doing it's job. It turns black witin 24hrs, then you can hit it with some rust-o-leum
Last edited by RyanV; 02-08-09 at 12:17 PM.
02-08-09, 04:44 PM
#44
Thanks a lot!
Well, I've been thinking about doing something like this for awhile now. Don't bag on the color I had it in my cabinet, and it matches the Teal color of my car.
I somewhat redesigned the Griffin as the emblems are boxy looking by design.
Well, I've been thinking about doing something like this for awhile now. Don't bag on the color I had it in my cabinet, and it matches the Teal color of my car.
I somewhat redesigned the Griffin as the emblems are boxy looking by design.
02-08-09, 07:19 PM
#45
Well, I go to mount the intercooler and I painted the Griffin upside down. Doh!
Anyways, I redid it the right way.
I also finished the radiator support.
old rusty support
new. I sprayed it with Krylon 'Rust Tough' (similar to rustoleum) after sanding the rust down to metal, and treating with rust converting gel.
I coulda sanded it smooth, but it's not like you can see it with everythign installed anyways.
I also hit up this ugly thing. I can't stand how it sits there looking so ugly, lol.
Anyways, I redid it the right way.
I also finished the radiator support.
old rusty support
new. I sprayed it with Krylon 'Rust Tough' (similar to rustoleum) after sanding the rust down to metal, and treating with rust converting gel.
I coulda sanded it smooth, but it's not like you can see it with everythign installed anyways.
I also hit up this ugly thing. I can't stand how it sits there looking so ugly, lol.
Last edited by RyanV; 02-09-09 at 05:41 AM.