Thinking of Nitrous
11-09-08, 08:05 AM
#1
Lead Lap
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Thinking of Nitrous
Hey guys,
I am currently thinking of adding some nitrous to my car to gain some more power. I have an SC400 with a few mods, such as S&S headers, 2.25 inch exhaust from the headers back, intake.
I am looking to run around a 50-100 shot of nitrous maybe increase it to 125 for a dyno pull. I am figuring around 50-100 ballpark would give me all the power I could need... for a while anyway
A few of my questions and concerns about running nitrous are; Is it better for my sc400 to run a wet or dry system? Do I change my shot by just swapping the nozzles? Is 50-125 shots safe for the 1uz? How is the nitrous armed, by opening the valve and going full throttle? Will my off nitrous performance be effected? What kit should I use? I am looking into NX because they claim there is no modding the fuel system required and no modding the timing required.
Thanks for looking at this guys. Before you ask yes I've searched on this forum and through google. Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated.
I am currently thinking of adding some nitrous to my car to gain some more power. I have an SC400 with a few mods, such as S&S headers, 2.25 inch exhaust from the headers back, intake.
I am looking to run around a 50-100 shot of nitrous maybe increase it to 125 for a dyno pull. I am figuring around 50-100 ballpark would give me all the power I could need... for a while anyway
A few of my questions and concerns about running nitrous are; Is it better for my sc400 to run a wet or dry system? Do I change my shot by just swapping the nozzles? Is 50-125 shots safe for the 1uz? How is the nitrous armed, by opening the valve and going full throttle? Will my off nitrous performance be effected? What kit should I use? I am looking into NX because they claim there is no modding the fuel system required and no modding the timing required.
Thanks for looking at this guys. Before you ask yes I've searched on this forum and through google. Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated.
11-09-08, 12:17 PM
#2
Heres some info I previously posted on a g35 forum, same principles apply tho
Dont worry about the specific parts mentioned for the G35, such as the fuel line adapter and the pod.
Some good info for you guys interested in nitrous
I posted this as a reply for someone who wanted to know further about the right parts and setup for a nitrous system in our cars along with an estimated cost. I decided to make it a whole new thred in efforts to help out as many peeps as possible. Here's it is:
Ok, heres is MY setup along with all the parts I currently am using and where i got them from. In my opinion these are the best parts you can have to make not only a complete but a safe and reliable setup. I consider this the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.
HARDWARE
1) nitrous express kit #20923-10 ($420)
It doesnt REALLY matter what nx kit you get since most of the kits are the same just with a slight variance with fittings and what not. The only guidelines that you need to watch for are that it's for an import, with a 10lb bottle. The rest you dont have to worry about and I will show you why in a bit. Your cheapest bet is to pick up a kit on ebay. I would not suggest buying a used one. I picked up my new kit for 420 shipped, so just look around. Or you can pick one up direct from NX for about $620 shipped.
2) fuel line adapter ($55)
You will need need this so you won't have to splice into the factory fuel line. This will save you from buying a new one "just in case" something happens and you need to return the vehicle to the dealership. If they see a spliced fuel line, they will most likely give you a hard time about it and in some cases void your warentee. You can pick this up at PTP motorsports ( http://www.ptpmotorsports.com/fuliad.html )
3) 2- 5 foot -4an steel braided lines ($35)
This is optional depending on where exactly you mount your solenoids. IT would be wise to mount them somewhere close to the intake, which is where the nozzle will be. I mounted mine by the left strut tower behind the little wall. You can find these all over ebay in various sizes. You probaby want to plan ahead of time and measure exactly to see what size lines you'll need.
ACCESSORIES- You will soon come to find that most of the cost of the system actually comes from the accessories and not the original kit itself. Most of these are only accessories to the kit and are not exactly needed, but can make life easier and help out a tad.
1) Bottle opener ($125)
Its exactly what it sounds like, a bottle opener. This will prevent you from having to go to your trunk everytime to open the bottle. I personally hid my bottle in a compartment i made in the trunk. So this benefitted me greatly. Its probably something that you should get just to make life easier. Search on ebay for one of these. Make sure its a NX opener, those are the best.
2) Bottle heater ($125)
This is a rubbery strapl that gets wrapped around your bottle to heat it up and increase the pressure in the bottle, which will actually affect performance quite a bit, especially if you live in colder regions where your bottle pressure will be too low and you will yield much less results. They come with an automatic turn off sensor. When it reaches a certain temp, it turns itself off. A great investment if you ask me.
3) Purge ($100)
This is a second nitrous solenoid that releases nitrous out of the system in efforts to remove the gaseos n20 and fill the lines up with the liquid portion (which is what you want). Now i cant exactly comment on how effective this is simply because i did not see much of a difference myself. Most people install this just for the looks ( nitrous spraying out of the hood, etc,). Not something you really need.
4) Fuel Pressure Safty Switch ($45)
This is a switch that gets tapped into the fuel lines, and when too much pressure drops, the signal is then cut and disactivated the system. This is to prevent grossly lean situations which WILL cause detonation. Very good safty device for the money. Devenatly something you need.
5) Blow down tube and fitting ($50)
This is a safty tube that gets installed on your bottle in the case of nitrous discharge from the blow off cap. This will route the discharge OUT of the cabin. Most people have this on because its a requirement for some, not all, tracks. Find your local track and see if its something that is required, and make a decision based up that.
6) Slicks/drag radials ($300)
You will soon find that traction will now become an issue. On stock tires it is easy to spin both first, second, AND third. Also pretty dangerous at high speeds if you dont know what your doing. This is where drag radial/slicks come into play. What you want to do is find the smallest size rims that will clear your calipers. 16" rims should do the trick. The smaller, the lighter, the better. What seems to work great are the 300zx wheels. They are a 16x8 design which can be picked up fairly cheap. Find yourself a set of drag radials. They can very in price quite a bit depending on if you get them new or used. Some people use them a couple of times,throw them in the garage and never use them again. That would be a good situation for you to come up on. I see ALOT of these types of situations on my350Z.com . You might wanna check there to see what kinda luck you can get.
***NOTE*** There is a kit by NX called the GEN X2 kit which has all of the above minus the bottle opener. It also comes with a guage that get mounted to the bottle. This is a good idea if you are planning to get most of the above. You can pick this up at http://turboimport.com/catalog/nitrousexpress.htm for $365 shipped OR if you do not want the purge, you can get the GEN-X package for $295 shipped.
ELECTRONICS- These are the various electronic deviced that you will need to not only run, but also monitor your system. Very important.
1) Adjustable Window Switch ($49)
Probably one of the most important and best safty devices you can have. Many people swear that you dont need them; (these are the people that cry about their blown motor shortly after). Its a component that activates the nitrous only if the pre-selected RPM paramaters have been met. With the adjustable unit, you can change the ranges to whatever you want. The range that i currently use is 3000 - 6750. I can adjust in 250 rpm increments on both the high and low. Best place to get this is at www.bakerelectronix.com . Make sure to get the adjustable one and for the the 8 preset increments choose 3000,3250,3500,3750, 6250,6500,6750,& 7000.
2) TPS (throttle position sensor) ($39)
Since our cars do not have a cable linked throttle, we have to go about the factory TPS sensor to activate the system. Well if theres no throttle cable you cant use the switch NX includes in the kit. You need a sensor that will read the factory TPS when at full throttle. This sensor will then activate the nitrous system only if the parameters have been reached, in this case WOT(wide open throttle). You can also pick up this unit at www.bakerelectronix.com. Getting the adjustable unit is an option, its $10 more. You dont exactly need the adjustable unit, but its good to have. This sensor is a must in the system and adds even less room for error.
3) gauges (nitrous, fuel pressure, and an optional air fuel gauge)
You need to monitor your system to see what its doing at all times. One way to do this is via gauges. You will need a nitrous gauge, which tells your the bottle pressure from inside the cabin, so you dont have to go run to the trunk to read it; you will need a fuel pressure gauge, this is to monitor fuel pressure which is very critical in nitrous systems; and the third gauge is honestly just to fill up the third hole in the gage pod(what holds the 3 gauges in the cabin). Its not exactly accurate and isnt made for tuning, but what it can do is easily and quickly notify you of dangerously lean situations. Now when it comes to the nitrous and fuel gauge, they make them 2 different ways. One is a regular unit, and the other is called a "full-sweep". The full sweeps are much more costly, but what they do is allow you NOT to have to run either the nitrous or fuel line into the cabin. Its an electronic gauge that has a sending unit which send the data to the gauge. I reccommend spending the extra money and getting these units so you dont have to have fuel and nitrous a couple of feet away from your face Look all over ebay. The full sweep Autometer nitrous gauge should run around ($200), Full sweep Autometer Fuel gauge should be just a tad bit cheaper, and the full sweep air/fuel gauge can be picked up fairly cheap (~$50).
4) gauge pod ($55)
This is to hold the three gauges inside the cabin. There are not many companies that have a complete replacement pillar. The one i got was through intense power for $55 dollars http://store.yahoo.com/ntnsracing/infuatrpodg3.html . Nice and clean looking in our cars.
Well thats the majority of what goes on in a top notch nitrous system for these cars. If you price that out, it comes out to about $1750. not too shabby for something that can be done in less than a day and have the same potential as any turbo/supercharged system. Contrary to what many people say, who most of have no experience in the matter, running nitrous oxide CAN be very safe and if done safly and correctly will not affect reliability of the motor. Sure you may expect less life time from the motor, but that comes with ANY from of FI. This system has 3 different safety devices to ensure the nitrous will only be engages in optimal conditions.
Any more questions, feel free to ask. Happy Spraying
Some good info for you guys interested in nitrous
I posted this as a reply for someone who wanted to know further about the right parts and setup for a nitrous system in our cars along with an estimated cost. I decided to make it a whole new thred in efforts to help out as many peeps as possible. Here's it is:
Ok, heres is MY setup along with all the parts I currently am using and where i got them from. In my opinion these are the best parts you can have to make not only a complete but a safe and reliable setup. I consider this the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.
HARDWARE
1) nitrous express kit #20923-10 ($420)
It doesnt REALLY matter what nx kit you get since most of the kits are the same just with a slight variance with fittings and what not. The only guidelines that you need to watch for are that it's for an import, with a 10lb bottle. The rest you dont have to worry about and I will show you why in a bit. Your cheapest bet is to pick up a kit on ebay. I would not suggest buying a used one. I picked up my new kit for 420 shipped, so just look around. Or you can pick one up direct from NX for about $620 shipped.
2) fuel line adapter ($55)
You will need need this so you won't have to splice into the factory fuel line. This will save you from buying a new one "just in case" something happens and you need to return the vehicle to the dealership. If they see a spliced fuel line, they will most likely give you a hard time about it and in some cases void your warentee. You can pick this up at PTP motorsports ( http://www.ptpmotorsports.com/fuliad.html )
3) 2- 5 foot -4an steel braided lines ($35)
This is optional depending on where exactly you mount your solenoids. IT would be wise to mount them somewhere close to the intake, which is where the nozzle will be. I mounted mine by the left strut tower behind the little wall. You can find these all over ebay in various sizes. You probaby want to plan ahead of time and measure exactly to see what size lines you'll need.
ACCESSORIES- You will soon come to find that most of the cost of the system actually comes from the accessories and not the original kit itself. Most of these are only accessories to the kit and are not exactly needed, but can make life easier and help out a tad.
1) Bottle opener ($125)
Its exactly what it sounds like, a bottle opener. This will prevent you from having to go to your trunk everytime to open the bottle. I personally hid my bottle in a compartment i made in the trunk. So this benefitted me greatly. Its probably something that you should get just to make life easier. Search on ebay for one of these. Make sure its a NX opener, those are the best.
2) Bottle heater ($125)
This is a rubbery strapl that gets wrapped around your bottle to heat it up and increase the pressure in the bottle, which will actually affect performance quite a bit, especially if you live in colder regions where your bottle pressure will be too low and you will yield much less results. They come with an automatic turn off sensor. When it reaches a certain temp, it turns itself off. A great investment if you ask me.
3) Purge ($100)
This is a second nitrous solenoid that releases nitrous out of the system in efforts to remove the gaseos n20 and fill the lines up with the liquid portion (which is what you want). Now i cant exactly comment on how effective this is simply because i did not see much of a difference myself. Most people install this just for the looks ( nitrous spraying out of the hood, etc,). Not something you really need.
4) Fuel Pressure Safty Switch ($45)
This is a switch that gets tapped into the fuel lines, and when too much pressure drops, the signal is then cut and disactivated the system. This is to prevent grossly lean situations which WILL cause detonation. Very good safty device for the money. Devenatly something you need.
5) Blow down tube and fitting ($50)
This is a safty tube that gets installed on your bottle in the case of nitrous discharge from the blow off cap. This will route the discharge OUT of the cabin. Most people have this on because its a requirement for some, not all, tracks. Find your local track and see if its something that is required, and make a decision based up that.
6) Slicks/drag radials ($300)
You will soon find that traction will now become an issue. On stock tires it is easy to spin both first, second, AND third. Also pretty dangerous at high speeds if you dont know what your doing. This is where drag radial/slicks come into play. What you want to do is find the smallest size rims that will clear your calipers. 16" rims should do the trick. The smaller, the lighter, the better. What seems to work great are the 300zx wheels. They are a 16x8 design which can be picked up fairly cheap. Find yourself a set of drag radials. They can very in price quite a bit depending on if you get them new or used. Some people use them a couple of times,throw them in the garage and never use them again. That would be a good situation for you to come up on. I see ALOT of these types of situations on my350Z.com . You might wanna check there to see what kinda luck you can get.
***NOTE*** There is a kit by NX called the GEN X2 kit which has all of the above minus the bottle opener. It also comes with a guage that get mounted to the bottle. This is a good idea if you are planning to get most of the above. You can pick this up at http://turboimport.com/catalog/nitrousexpress.htm for $365 shipped OR if you do not want the purge, you can get the GEN-X package for $295 shipped.
ELECTRONICS- These are the various electronic deviced that you will need to not only run, but also monitor your system. Very important.
1) Adjustable Window Switch ($49)
Probably one of the most important and best safty devices you can have. Many people swear that you dont need them; (these are the people that cry about their blown motor shortly after). Its a component that activates the nitrous only if the pre-selected RPM paramaters have been met. With the adjustable unit, you can change the ranges to whatever you want. The range that i currently use is 3000 - 6750. I can adjust in 250 rpm increments on both the high and low. Best place to get this is at www.bakerelectronix.com . Make sure to get the adjustable one and for the the 8 preset increments choose 3000,3250,3500,3750, 6250,6500,6750,& 7000.
2) TPS (throttle position sensor) ($39)
Since our cars do not have a cable linked throttle, we have to go about the factory TPS sensor to activate the system. Well if theres no throttle cable you cant use the switch NX includes in the kit. You need a sensor that will read the factory TPS when at full throttle. This sensor will then activate the nitrous system only if the parameters have been reached, in this case WOT(wide open throttle). You can also pick up this unit at www.bakerelectronix.com. Getting the adjustable unit is an option, its $10 more. You dont exactly need the adjustable unit, but its good to have. This sensor is a must in the system and adds even less room for error.
3) gauges (nitrous, fuel pressure, and an optional air fuel gauge)
You need to monitor your system to see what its doing at all times. One way to do this is via gauges. You will need a nitrous gauge, which tells your the bottle pressure from inside the cabin, so you dont have to go run to the trunk to read it; you will need a fuel pressure gauge, this is to monitor fuel pressure which is very critical in nitrous systems; and the third gauge is honestly just to fill up the third hole in the gage pod(what holds the 3 gauges in the cabin). Its not exactly accurate and isnt made for tuning, but what it can do is easily and quickly notify you of dangerously lean situations. Now when it comes to the nitrous and fuel gauge, they make them 2 different ways. One is a regular unit, and the other is called a "full-sweep". The full sweeps are much more costly, but what they do is allow you NOT to have to run either the nitrous or fuel line into the cabin. Its an electronic gauge that has a sending unit which send the data to the gauge. I reccommend spending the extra money and getting these units so you dont have to have fuel and nitrous a couple of feet away from your face Look all over ebay. The full sweep Autometer nitrous gauge should run around ($200), Full sweep Autometer Fuel gauge should be just a tad bit cheaper, and the full sweep air/fuel gauge can be picked up fairly cheap (~$50).
4) gauge pod ($55)
This is to hold the three gauges inside the cabin. There are not many companies that have a complete replacement pillar. The one i got was through intense power for $55 dollars http://store.yahoo.com/ntnsracing/infuatrpodg3.html . Nice and clean looking in our cars.
Well thats the majority of what goes on in a top notch nitrous system for these cars. If you price that out, it comes out to about $1750. not too shabby for something that can be done in less than a day and have the same potential as any turbo/supercharged system. Contrary to what many people say, who most of have no experience in the matter, running nitrous oxide CAN be very safe and if done safly and correctly will not affect reliability of the motor. Sure you may expect less life time from the motor, but that comes with ANY from of FI. This system has 3 different safety devices to ensure the nitrous will only be engages in optimal conditions.
Any more questions, feel free to ask. Happy Spraying
11-10-08, 05:56 AM
#4
Lead Lap
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Dont worry about the specific parts mentioned for the G35, such as the fuel line adapter and the pod.
Some good info for you guys interested in nitrous
I posted this as a reply for someone who wanted to know further about the right parts and setup for a nitrous system in our cars along with an estimated cost. I decided to make it a whole new thred in efforts to help out as many peeps as possible. Here's it is:
Ok, heres is MY setup along with all the parts I currently am using and where i got them from. In my opinion these are the best parts you can have to make not only a complete but a safe and reliable setup. I consider this the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.
HARDWARE
1) nitrous express kit #20923-10 ($420)
It doesnt REALLY matter what nx kit you get since most of the kits are the same just with a slight variance with fittings and what not. The only guidelines that you need to watch for are that it's for an import, with a 10lb bottle. The rest you dont have to worry about and I will show you why in a bit. Your cheapest bet is to pick up a kit on ebay. I would not suggest buying a used one. I picked up my new kit for 420 shipped, so just look around. Or you can pick one up direct from NX for about $620 shipped.
2) fuel line adapter ($55)
You will need need this so you won't have to splice into the factory fuel line. This will save you from buying a new one "just in case" something happens and you need to return the vehicle to the dealership. If they see a spliced fuel line, they will most likely give you a hard time about it and in some cases void your warentee. You can pick this up at PTP motorsports ( http://www.ptpmotorsports.com/fuliad.html )
3) 2- 5 foot -4an steel braided lines ($35)
This is optional depending on where exactly you mount your solenoids. IT would be wise to mount them somewhere close to the intake, which is where the nozzle will be. I mounted mine by the left strut tower behind the little wall. You can find these all over ebay in various sizes. You probaby want to plan ahead of time and measure exactly to see what size lines you'll need.
ACCESSORIES- You will soon come to find that most of the cost of the system actually comes from the accessories and not the original kit itself. Most of these are only accessories to the kit and are not exactly needed, but can make life easier and help out a tad.
1) Bottle opener ($125)
Its exactly what it sounds like, a bottle opener. This will prevent you from having to go to your trunk everytime to open the bottle. I personally hid my bottle in a compartment i made in the trunk. So this benefitted me greatly. Its probably something that you should get just to make life easier. Search on ebay for one of these. Make sure its a NX opener, those are the best.
2) Bottle heater ($125)
This is a rubbery strapl that gets wrapped around your bottle to heat it up and increase the pressure in the bottle, which will actually affect performance quite a bit, especially if you live in colder regions where your bottle pressure will be too low and you will yield much less results. They come with an automatic turn off sensor. When it reaches a certain temp, it turns itself off. A great investment if you ask me.
3) Purge ($100)
This is a second nitrous solenoid that releases nitrous out of the system in efforts to remove the gaseos n20 and fill the lines up with the liquid portion (which is what you want). Now i cant exactly comment on how effective this is simply because i did not see much of a difference myself. Most people install this just for the looks ( nitrous spraying out of the hood, etc,). Not something you really need.
4) Fuel Pressure Safty Switch ($45)
This is a switch that gets tapped into the fuel lines, and when too much pressure drops, the signal is then cut and disactivated the system. This is to prevent grossly lean situations which WILL cause detonation. Very good safty device for the money. Devenatly something you need.
5) Blow down tube and fitting ($50)
This is a safty tube that gets installed on your bottle in the case of nitrous discharge from the blow off cap. This will route the discharge OUT of the cabin. Most people have this on because its a requirement for some, not all, tracks. Find your local track and see if its something that is required, and make a decision based up that.
6) Slicks/drag radials ($300)
You will soon find that traction will now become an issue. On stock tires it is easy to spin both first, second, AND third. Also pretty dangerous at high speeds if you dont know what your doing. This is where drag radial/slicks come into play. What you want to do is find the smallest size rims that will clear your calipers. 16" rims should do the trick. The smaller, the lighter, the better. What seems to work great are the 300zx wheels. They are a 16x8 design which can be picked up fairly cheap. Find yourself a set of drag radials. They can very in price quite a bit depending on if you get them new or used. Some people use them a couple of times,throw them in the garage and never use them again. That would be a good situation for you to come up on. I see ALOT of these types of situations on my350Z.com . You might wanna check there to see what kinda luck you can get.
***NOTE*** There is a kit by NX called the GEN X2 kit which has all of the above minus the bottle opener. It also comes with a guage that get mounted to the bottle. This is a good idea if you are planning to get most of the above. You can pick this up at http://turboimport.com/catalog/nitrousexpress.htm for $365 shipped OR if you do not want the purge, you can get the GEN-X package for $295 shipped.
ELECTRONICS- These are the various electronic deviced that you will need to not only run, but also monitor your system. Very important.
1) Adjustable Window Switch ($49)
Probably one of the most important and best safty devices you can have. Many people swear that you dont need them; (these are the people that cry about their blown motor shortly after). Its a component that activates the nitrous only if the pre-selected RPM paramaters have been met. With the adjustable unit, you can change the ranges to whatever you want. The range that i currently use is 3000 - 6750. I can adjust in 250 rpm increments on both the high and low. Best place to get this is at www.bakerelectronix.com . Make sure to get the adjustable one and for the the 8 preset increments choose 3000,3250,3500,3750, 6250,6500,6750,& 7000.
2) TPS (throttle position sensor) ($39)
Since our cars do not have a cable linked throttle, we have to go about the factory TPS sensor to activate the system. Well if theres no throttle cable you cant use the switch NX includes in the kit. You need a sensor that will read the factory TPS when at full throttle. This sensor will then activate the nitrous system only if the parameters have been reached, in this case WOT(wide open throttle). You can also pick up this unit at www.bakerelectronix.com. Getting the adjustable unit is an option, its $10 more. You dont exactly need the adjustable unit, but its good to have. This sensor is a must in the system and adds even less room for error.
3) gauges (nitrous, fuel pressure, and an optional air fuel gauge)
You need to monitor your system to see what its doing at all times. One way to do this is via gauges. You will need a nitrous gauge, which tells your the bottle pressure from inside the cabin, so you dont have to go run to the trunk to read it; you will need a fuel pressure gauge, this is to monitor fuel pressure which is very critical in nitrous systems; and the third gauge is honestly just to fill up the third hole in the gage pod(what holds the 3 gauges in the cabin). Its not exactly accurate and isnt made for tuning, but what it can do is easily and quickly notify you of dangerously lean situations. Now when it comes to the nitrous and fuel gauge, they make them 2 different ways. One is a regular unit, and the other is called a "full-sweep". The full sweeps are much more costly, but what they do is allow you NOT to have to run either the nitrous or fuel line into the cabin. Its an electronic gauge that has a sending unit which send the data to the gauge. I reccommend spending the extra money and getting these units so you dont have to have fuel and nitrous a couple of feet away from your face Look all over ebay. The full sweep Autometer nitrous gauge should run around ($200), Full sweep Autometer Fuel gauge should be just a tad bit cheaper, and the full sweep air/fuel gauge can be picked up fairly cheap (~$50).
4) gauge pod ($55)
This is to hold the three gauges inside the cabin. There are not many companies that have a complete replacement pillar. The one i got was through intense power for $55 dollars http://store.yahoo.com/ntnsracing/infuatrpodg3.html . Nice and clean looking in our cars.
Well thats the majority of what goes on in a top notch nitrous system for these cars. If you price that out, it comes out to about $1750. not too shabby for something that can be done in less than a day and have the same potential as any turbo/supercharged system. Contrary to what many people say, who most of have no experience in the matter, running nitrous oxide CAN be very safe and if done safly and correctly will not affect reliability of the motor. Sure you may expect less life time from the motor, but that comes with ANY from of FI. This system has 3 different safety devices to ensure the nitrous will only be engages in optimal conditions.
Any more questions, feel free to ask. Happy Spraying
Some good info for you guys interested in nitrous
I posted this as a reply for someone who wanted to know further about the right parts and setup for a nitrous system in our cars along with an estimated cost. I decided to make it a whole new thred in efforts to help out as many peeps as possible. Here's it is:
Ok, heres is MY setup along with all the parts I currently am using and where i got them from. In my opinion these are the best parts you can have to make not only a complete but a safe and reliable setup. I consider this the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.
HARDWARE
1) nitrous express kit #20923-10 ($420)
It doesnt REALLY matter what nx kit you get since most of the kits are the same just with a slight variance with fittings and what not. The only guidelines that you need to watch for are that it's for an import, with a 10lb bottle. The rest you dont have to worry about and I will show you why in a bit. Your cheapest bet is to pick up a kit on ebay. I would not suggest buying a used one. I picked up my new kit for 420 shipped, so just look around. Or you can pick one up direct from NX for about $620 shipped.
2) fuel line adapter ($55)
You will need need this so you won't have to splice into the factory fuel line. This will save you from buying a new one "just in case" something happens and you need to return the vehicle to the dealership. If they see a spliced fuel line, they will most likely give you a hard time about it and in some cases void your warentee. You can pick this up at PTP motorsports ( http://www.ptpmotorsports.com/fuliad.html )
3) 2- 5 foot -4an steel braided lines ($35)
This is optional depending on where exactly you mount your solenoids. IT would be wise to mount them somewhere close to the intake, which is where the nozzle will be. I mounted mine by the left strut tower behind the little wall. You can find these all over ebay in various sizes. You probaby want to plan ahead of time and measure exactly to see what size lines you'll need.
ACCESSORIES- You will soon come to find that most of the cost of the system actually comes from the accessories and not the original kit itself. Most of these are only accessories to the kit and are not exactly needed, but can make life easier and help out a tad.
1) Bottle opener ($125)
Its exactly what it sounds like, a bottle opener. This will prevent you from having to go to your trunk everytime to open the bottle. I personally hid my bottle in a compartment i made in the trunk. So this benefitted me greatly. Its probably something that you should get just to make life easier. Search on ebay for one of these. Make sure its a NX opener, those are the best.
2) Bottle heater ($125)
This is a rubbery strapl that gets wrapped around your bottle to heat it up and increase the pressure in the bottle, which will actually affect performance quite a bit, especially if you live in colder regions where your bottle pressure will be too low and you will yield much less results. They come with an automatic turn off sensor. When it reaches a certain temp, it turns itself off. A great investment if you ask me.
3) Purge ($100)
This is a second nitrous solenoid that releases nitrous out of the system in efforts to remove the gaseos n20 and fill the lines up with the liquid portion (which is what you want). Now i cant exactly comment on how effective this is simply because i did not see much of a difference myself. Most people install this just for the looks ( nitrous spraying out of the hood, etc,). Not something you really need.
4) Fuel Pressure Safty Switch ($45)
This is a switch that gets tapped into the fuel lines, and when too much pressure drops, the signal is then cut and disactivated the system. This is to prevent grossly lean situations which WILL cause detonation. Very good safty device for the money. Devenatly something you need.
5) Blow down tube and fitting ($50)
This is a safty tube that gets installed on your bottle in the case of nitrous discharge from the blow off cap. This will route the discharge OUT of the cabin. Most people have this on because its a requirement for some, not all, tracks. Find your local track and see if its something that is required, and make a decision based up that.
6) Slicks/drag radials ($300)
You will soon find that traction will now become an issue. On stock tires it is easy to spin both first, second, AND third. Also pretty dangerous at high speeds if you dont know what your doing. This is where drag radial/slicks come into play. What you want to do is find the smallest size rims that will clear your calipers. 16" rims should do the trick. The smaller, the lighter, the better. What seems to work great are the 300zx wheels. They are a 16x8 design which can be picked up fairly cheap. Find yourself a set of drag radials. They can very in price quite a bit depending on if you get them new or used. Some people use them a couple of times,throw them in the garage and never use them again. That would be a good situation for you to come up on. I see ALOT of these types of situations on my350Z.com . You might wanna check there to see what kinda luck you can get.
***NOTE*** There is a kit by NX called the GEN X2 kit which has all of the above minus the bottle opener. It also comes with a guage that get mounted to the bottle. This is a good idea if you are planning to get most of the above. You can pick this up at http://turboimport.com/catalog/nitrousexpress.htm for $365 shipped OR if you do not want the purge, you can get the GEN-X package for $295 shipped.
ELECTRONICS- These are the various electronic deviced that you will need to not only run, but also monitor your system. Very important.
1) Adjustable Window Switch ($49)
Probably one of the most important and best safty devices you can have. Many people swear that you dont need them; (these are the people that cry about their blown motor shortly after). Its a component that activates the nitrous only if the pre-selected RPM paramaters have been met. With the adjustable unit, you can change the ranges to whatever you want. The range that i currently use is 3000 - 6750. I can adjust in 250 rpm increments on both the high and low. Best place to get this is at www.bakerelectronix.com . Make sure to get the adjustable one and for the the 8 preset increments choose 3000,3250,3500,3750, 6250,6500,6750,& 7000.
2) TPS (throttle position sensor) ($39)
Since our cars do not have a cable linked throttle, we have to go about the factory TPS sensor to activate the system. Well if theres no throttle cable you cant use the switch NX includes in the kit. You need a sensor that will read the factory TPS when at full throttle. This sensor will then activate the nitrous system only if the parameters have been reached, in this case WOT(wide open throttle). You can also pick up this unit at www.bakerelectronix.com. Getting the adjustable unit is an option, its $10 more. You dont exactly need the adjustable unit, but its good to have. This sensor is a must in the system and adds even less room for error.
3) gauges (nitrous, fuel pressure, and an optional air fuel gauge)
You need to monitor your system to see what its doing at all times. One way to do this is via gauges. You will need a nitrous gauge, which tells your the bottle pressure from inside the cabin, so you dont have to go run to the trunk to read it; you will need a fuel pressure gauge, this is to monitor fuel pressure which is very critical in nitrous systems; and the third gauge is honestly just to fill up the third hole in the gage pod(what holds the 3 gauges in the cabin). Its not exactly accurate and isnt made for tuning, but what it can do is easily and quickly notify you of dangerously lean situations. Now when it comes to the nitrous and fuel gauge, they make them 2 different ways. One is a regular unit, and the other is called a "full-sweep". The full sweeps are much more costly, but what they do is allow you NOT to have to run either the nitrous or fuel line into the cabin. Its an electronic gauge that has a sending unit which send the data to the gauge. I reccommend spending the extra money and getting these units so you dont have to have fuel and nitrous a couple of feet away from your face Look all over ebay. The full sweep Autometer nitrous gauge should run around ($200), Full sweep Autometer Fuel gauge should be just a tad bit cheaper, and the full sweep air/fuel gauge can be picked up fairly cheap (~$50).
4) gauge pod ($55)
This is to hold the three gauges inside the cabin. There are not many companies that have a complete replacement pillar. The one i got was through intense power for $55 dollars http://store.yahoo.com/ntnsracing/infuatrpodg3.html . Nice and clean looking in our cars.
Well thats the majority of what goes on in a top notch nitrous system for these cars. If you price that out, it comes out to about $1750. not too shabby for something that can be done in less than a day and have the same potential as any turbo/supercharged system. Contrary to what many people say, who most of have no experience in the matter, running nitrous oxide CAN be very safe and if done safly and correctly will not affect reliability of the motor. Sure you may expect less life time from the motor, but that comes with ANY from of FI. This system has 3 different safety devices to ensure the nitrous will only be engages in optimal conditions.
Any more questions, feel free to ask. Happy Spraying
A few questions I have, Lets say i want to go full throttle without nitrous on, would the WOT switch trigger n20? Or I can I close the valve and shut it off? I believe your info is for a wet system, would a wet system since it needs to run in my fuel line effect my off nitrous MPG? And lastly are the gauges a must? I am not a fan of any type of gauge that isnt factory in the SC, if I must can I just use an A/F to monitor or do I need all you mentioned?
11-10-08, 09:03 AM
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A switch arms the WOT nitrous trigger; when the switch is off, you can go WOT and not spray. When the switch is on, it will click over the fuel and nitrous solenoids. You'll need two last things to actually have it work... fuel pressure (which you'll have when the car is on) and the bottle open with nitrous in the tank.
I would only go with a wet shot, and buy a wideband for sure. Unless you are very versed and have lots of drag racing experience, tuning by the plugs is not for you. We don't install any nitrous kits w/o a wideband unless you dyno tune it.
Ian
I would only go with a wet shot, and buy a wideband for sure. Unless you are very versed and have lots of drag racing experience, tuning by the plugs is not for you. We don't install any nitrous kits w/o a wideband unless you dyno tune it.
Ian
11-10-08, 09:27 AM
#6
Thanks for the great write up.
A few questions I have, Lets say i want to go full throttle without nitrous on, would the WOT switch trigger n20? Or I can I close the valve and shut it off? I believe your info is for a wet system, would a wet system since it needs to run in my fuel line effect my off nitrous MPG? And lastly are the gauges a must? I am not a fan of any type of gauge that isnt factory in the SC, if I must can I just use an A/F to monitor or do I need all you mentioned?
A few questions I have, Lets say i want to go full throttle without nitrous on, would the WOT switch trigger n20? Or I can I close the valve and shut it off? I believe your info is for a wet system, would a wet system since it needs to run in my fuel line effect my off nitrous MPG? And lastly are the gauges a must? I am not a fan of any type of gauge that isnt factory in the SC, if I must can I just use an A/F to monitor or do I need all you mentioned?
I'd suggest running a colder spark plug and make sure that you have the regular maintenance done. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. I had a buddy a few years ago burn a couple valves because something got stuck in his fuel jet.
Also, i suggest going with the TPS method to activate the nitrous. I've had problems with the throtlle cable switches in the past.
11-11-08, 06:20 AM
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A switch arms the WOT nitrous trigger; when the switch is off, you can go WOT and not spray. When the switch is on, it will click over the fuel and nitrous solenoids. You'll need two last things to actually have it work... fuel pressure (which you'll have when the car is on) and the bottle open with nitrous in the tank.
I would only go with a wet shot, and buy a wideband for sure. Unless you are very versed and have lots of drag racing experience, tuning by the plugs is not for you. We don't install any nitrous kits w/o a wideband unless you dyno tune it.
Ian
I would only go with a wet shot, and buy a wideband for sure. Unless you are very versed and have lots of drag racing experience, tuning by the plugs is not for you. We don't install any nitrous kits w/o a wideband unless you dyno tune it.
Ian
Your off nitrous MPG should not be affected at all. The fuel solenoid is only opened when the nitrous system is in use.
I'd suggest running a colder spark plug and make sure that you have the regular maintenance done. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. I had a buddy a few years ago burn a couple valves because something got stuck in his fuel jet.
Also, i suggest going with the TPS method to activate the nitrous. I've had problems with the throtlle cable switches in the past.
I'd suggest running a colder spark plug and make sure that you have the regular maintenance done. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. I had a buddy a few years ago burn a couple valves because something got stuck in his fuel jet.
Also, i suggest going with the TPS method to activate the nitrous. I've had problems with the throtlle cable switches in the past.
Thanks for the info guys, keep suggestions coming
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11-11-08, 07:31 AM
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Plugs I bought are, http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...x.asp?mode=nml
part # 3764, not sure how to compare them, as I had the original densos in before.
part # 3764, not sure how to compare them, as I had the original densos in before.
11-11-08, 11:40 AM
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Ian
11-12-08, 02:28 AM
#13
if you go with NX (nitrous Express), you wont have to deal with any tuning. Based on your vehicle, you run certain jets. they calculate how much fuel to give for the shot of nitrous based on your stock fuel pressure.
Basically you dont have to worry about tuning, just plug and play. You look in the manual and look for your car, it will tell u what jets to use for the shot you are looking for.
On a side note....I have been using NX for over 5 years now and I can say they are they best nitrous kit out there, better then ZEX, and most definatly better than NOS. The quality of all the fitings and solenoids are much better then their competitors.
As far as your question about boost and nitrous, its much more complicated combining the two and really isnt needed in most application unless your running a huge turbo and you spray just in the beginning to help get the car going before boost kicks in.
Also, cars that run higher compression make it harder to run and form of forced induction, weather it be nitrous, turbo or supercharger.
hope this helps
Basically you dont have to worry about tuning, just plug and play. You look in the manual and look for your car, it will tell u what jets to use for the shot you are looking for.
On a side note....I have been using NX for over 5 years now and I can say they are they best nitrous kit out there, better then ZEX, and most definatly better than NOS. The quality of all the fitings and solenoids are much better then their competitors.
As far as your question about boost and nitrous, its much more complicated combining the two and really isnt needed in most application unless your running a huge turbo and you spray just in the beginning to help get the car going before boost kicks in.
Also, cars that run higher compression make it harder to run and form of forced induction, weather it be nitrous, turbo or supercharger.
hope this helps
11-12-08, 02:33 AM
#14
Also dont worry about air fuel gauges and wideband gauges...for something as simple as your thinking of, none of that is really necessary. If your running anything above a 125 shot, then maybe you should consider it, otherwise dont waste your time and money.
11-12-08, 12:35 PM
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Sure, you can use the chart and select the correct jets as a starting point, and we do that... and usually find that some fine tuning is in order, even as low as on a 75 shot.
A $275 wideband is far cheaper than a motor. Dropping fuel pressure, a clogged line, or too high of bottle pressure would all be caught by a wideband and a responsible driver.
Just my .02.
Ian