1UZFE question for all the V-8 techies
06-17-08, 09:01 AM
#1
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1UZFE question for all the V-8 techies
Let's say I have this........
and I want to put it in this.........
Exactly how "stand alone" would this system be if I transferred the portion of the harness from the engine and transmission, as well as the ECU? Basically use as much of the harness as needed plus the matching computer and mount it into my 50 Pontiac.
I figure I can stop by a local VOC school and give a kid a case of beer to weld me a mount up for the engine and tranny, then stop by the local driveshaft guy and have him cut and balance me a new shaft.
About the only thing stopping me would be the wiring - which is all factory and 100% complete. I wouldn't even have to hack anything. I'd plug and go, but I'd need to know how much of it I need for engine management and transmission function.
I guess I'd need to mount a speed sensor for the tranny unless it bases itself off the driveshaft RPM.
This SC was 100% completely running with no issues at all when it hit a guard rail so it's all perfect and just waiting for me to do something with it, and I couldn't think of a better option than to stick it in my 50 Pontiac Silver Streak.
and I want to put it in this.........
Exactly how "stand alone" would this system be if I transferred the portion of the harness from the engine and transmission, as well as the ECU? Basically use as much of the harness as needed plus the matching computer and mount it into my 50 Pontiac.
I figure I can stop by a local VOC school and give a kid a case of beer to weld me a mount up for the engine and tranny, then stop by the local driveshaft guy and have him cut and balance me a new shaft.
About the only thing stopping me would be the wiring - which is all factory and 100% complete. I wouldn't even have to hack anything. I'd plug and go, but I'd need to know how much of it I need for engine management and transmission function.
I guess I'd need to mount a speed sensor for the tranny unless it bases itself off the driveshaft RPM.
This SC was 100% completely running with no issues at all when it hit a guard rail so it's all perfect and just waiting for me to do something with it, and I couldn't think of a better option than to stick it in my 50 Pontiac Silver Streak.
Last edited by O. L. T.; 06-17-08 at 09:05 AM.
06-17-08, 11:29 AM
#4
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It can be done .all you will need is the engine harness, ecu ,custom mounts driveshaft and so on..To power up the 1uzfe i think all you will have to do is run the big orange/black on the bodyplugs to a ignition source .As for the guages, you can put autometer guages in the cluster if it can fit .
Soon enough everyone will forget about the jz engines and the v8's will be the new kid on da block .The new UR engines are really powerful.
Soon enough everyone will forget about the jz engines and the v8's will be the new kid on da block .The new UR engines are really powerful.
06-18-08, 06:45 AM
#7
With all of the wiring and electronics from the SC, there is no telling that you couldn't run a basic set up (minus all of the power gizmos and gadgets) using that motor with the stock ECU and stock fuel mapping. I would start getting to know the wiring guide for the car and get to know a decent fab guy who can adapt mounts for the engine and transmission that will work with that old car.
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06-18-08, 09:01 AM
#9
Thanks for the info Aliga. What my dad taught me, which is going to sound very stupid to everyone else, but if the donor car runs, just crank it up with the ecu wires exposed, and start cutting them one by one. If the car dies, then you know you need that wire, so tape it back up, start her up again, and start sniping other wires off until you get everything off, and the car still runs. Make sure it runs good too after every wire.
It takes some time, and it's easier with someone else in the car to rev it up for you. Once you have all your wires cut, pull the engine and harness out, and start tracing wires, once you eliminate the wires and plugs of what you don't need, you can start getting rid of the components on the other side of the harness on the engine.
It takes some time, and it's easier with someone else in the car to rev it up for you. Once you have all your wires cut, pull the engine and harness out, and start tracing wires, once you eliminate the wires and plugs of what you don't need, you can start getting rid of the components on the other side of the harness on the engine.
06-18-08, 09:38 AM
#10
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With my '50 rod, I have all the room in the world to stuff wires so I don't care if I use the whole harness, but I was hoping to use a minimum obviously.
Basically I figured I wouldn't need anything behind the ECU that runs the rest of the lights, interior, etc.... Most of the body harness apples to the car itself and not the engine. When I pulled this car clean I took an extra week to make sure I didn't cut a single wire. I literally have every end of it.
On the SC the body harness connects at each side of the firewall and runs backwards down the body and there is a crossover harness for the dash that runs side to side.
The engine harness unplugs at the passenger side firewall kick panel. The junction on that side plugs into the ECU, so it is a very direct route from the engine to the ECU.
Some of the electronics that run the ignition cross into the crossover harness that runs across the dash to the ignition, but since there is no transponder any switch should do.
My two concerns were:
- how much of the vehicle components (not engine, everything else) does the ECU have to see hooked up to run properly v/s how much I can cut out.
- how much pressure do I have to put through the fuel lines to make the engine run properly and see correct injector pressure. This one I think is the only thing that will cost me since I'm going to likely have to buy a fuel cell and stick an aftermarket pump on it unless I can figure out a good external pump to use that will work with the factory 1950 fuel tank.
Basically I figured I wouldn't need anything behind the ECU that runs the rest of the lights, interior, etc.... Most of the body harness apples to the car itself and not the engine. When I pulled this car clean I took an extra week to make sure I didn't cut a single wire. I literally have every end of it.
On the SC the body harness connects at each side of the firewall and runs backwards down the body and there is a crossover harness for the dash that runs side to side.
The engine harness unplugs at the passenger side firewall kick panel. The junction on that side plugs into the ECU, so it is a very direct route from the engine to the ECU.
Some of the electronics that run the ignition cross into the crossover harness that runs across the dash to the ignition, but since there is no transponder any switch should do.
My two concerns were:
- how much of the vehicle components (not engine, everything else) does the ECU have to see hooked up to run properly v/s how much I can cut out.
- how much pressure do I have to put through the fuel lines to make the engine run properly and see correct injector pressure. This one I think is the only thing that will cost me since I'm going to likely have to buy a fuel cell and stick an aftermarket pump on it unless I can figure out a good external pump to use that will work with the factory 1950 fuel tank.
06-20-08, 05:30 PM
#13
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Olt what features does the car have inside ? I doubt there is more gadgets than the sc on that car. The only thing that will be difficult is the fuel system and guages .I doubt very much that you will loose power windows, lights etc. This swap can be done and it will be sick if you do decide to do it.
06-20-08, 08:06 PM
#14
Wow, no need to be a **** about it man. But when you are trying to figure out what you need and don't need, that is probably going to be the easiest way of doing things. I agree I don't know much about how the dash wiring is, but I'm trying to help him figure something out.
You have to do it when the motor is still in the car and running, so you can determine what you need and don't need. It's as simple as that. If he's not worried about gauges, then he could just stuff the ENTIRE engine harness into that chassis, he pretty much would only have to wire power, ground, fuel pump switch, and be done with it.
Now I'm not trying to argue with you, but I sure didn't like that tone, so if possible, try to be a bit nicer. Just because you have your own way of doing something, definitely doesn't give you the right to **** on me.
Sorry OLT for ruining your thread, but if you feel the need to delete my post, then go ahead, but at least leave it up here enough for him to read it plz.
You have to do it when the motor is still in the car and running, so you can determine what you need and don't need. It's as simple as that. If he's not worried about gauges, then he could just stuff the ENTIRE engine harness into that chassis, he pretty much would only have to wire power, ground, fuel pump switch, and be done with it.
Now I'm not trying to argue with you, but I sure didn't like that tone, so if possible, try to be a bit nicer. Just because you have your own way of doing something, definitely doesn't give you the right to **** on me.
Sorry OLT for ruining your thread, but if you feel the need to delete my post, then go ahead, but at least leave it up here enough for him to read it plz.
06-20-08, 08:10 PM
#15
- how much of the vehicle components (not engine, everything else) does the ECU have to see hooked up to run properly v/s how much I can cut out.
- how much pressure do I have to put through the fuel lines to make the engine run properly and see correct injector pressure. This one I think is the only thing that will cost me since I'm going to likely have to buy a fuel cell and stick an aftermarket pump on it unless I can figure out a good external pump to use that will work with the factory 1950 fuel tank.
Where does those wires meet up at? I'm assuming the ecu right? I would think a pin-out (if you can find a COMPLETE one) would help you greatly here, seeing that the engine is no longer in the car.
As far as fuel pressure goes, you just have to go by stock specs. You can find that in the FSM's. Assuming that you are going to use the stock FPR's I don't think that's an issue you will have to worry about.
- how much pressure do I have to put through the fuel lines to make the engine run properly and see correct injector pressure. This one I think is the only thing that will cost me since I'm going to likely have to buy a fuel cell and stick an aftermarket pump on it unless I can figure out a good external pump to use that will work with the factory 1950 fuel tank.
Where does those wires meet up at? I'm assuming the ecu right? I would think a pin-out (if you can find a COMPLETE one) would help you greatly here, seeing that the engine is no longer in the car.
As far as fuel pressure goes, you just have to go by stock specs. You can find that in the FSM's. Assuming that you are going to use the stock FPR's I don't think that's an issue you will have to worry about.