1JZ - Cannot Rev Pass 3000 RPMS - Need Guru.
I wrecked the car about two weeks after this and wasnt really in the mood to post about 1jz i couldnt drive lol.
yep thats the one, it sits right next to a brown wire.
yep thats the one, it sits right next to a brown wire.
Well I've been using the 2jz map sensor, but the map was set to normal on the PFC. Well yesterday I switched it to sw20 and the rev limiter is gone.
i am using the 1jz map sensor, so i used it's setting, then i also tried the apexi 3bar sensor, which i also have, but it too had the same problem. . .
Still wish someone would track this wire on their 95 :\
Still wish someone would track this wire on their 95 :\
Speaking of the low oil light, I remeber when I was having the cut it was always on after I started the car, after I swapped out the harness to a harness that suited my car basically 5 speed soarer harness to 5 speed sc300. The low oil light went away and so did the cut.
But it is 100% something to do with a signal reaching the ECU telling the car, it has cranked succesfully and its running. Its not your cam sensor, its not your crank sensor and its not your knock sensor.
Good luck finding the right wire.
But it is 100% something to do with a signal reaching the ECU telling the car, it has cranked succesfully and its running. Its not your cam sensor, its not your crank sensor and its not your knock sensor.
Good luck finding the right wire.
re:
Speaking of the low oil light, I remeber when I was having the cut it was always on after I started the car, after I swapped out the harness to a harness that suited my car basically 5 speed soarer harness to 5 speed sc300. The low oil light went away and so did the cut.
But it is 100% something to do with a signal reaching the ECU telling the car, it has cranked succesfully and its running. Its not your cam sensor, its not your crank sensor and its not your knock sensor.
Good luck finding the right wire.
But it is 100% something to do with a signal reaching the ECU telling the car, it has cranked succesfully and its running. Its not your cam sensor, its not your crank sensor and its not your knock sensor.
Good luck finding the right wire.
I did go and check the grounding on the knock sensors, as well as the resistance on the crank and cam sensors and their wiring. but that was long ago, so it is nice to know it's not them(i STILL had my doubts).
so body plug that mentions being running.
All i see at the moment is a starter signal, but that throws a ecu code...
i'm stuck working with the volume 1 book, so i'll do better when in a few days when I can look in the voume 2.
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due to the way the wiring diagrams work, i'm still SOL.
Without knowing which junction number and plug it is, I'm going to be lost in these pages.
I do think it's either IJ1 or IK1, but not 100%...going to look through pics in here to try and tell which for sure
edit: from pics it appears to be IK1.
Trying to find IK1's relation to engine, etc.
nothing simple(maybe overlooked).
going to try looking at Volume 1 tomorrow to use the "starter" section.
Without knowing which junction number and plug it is, I'm going to be lost in these pages.
I do think it's either IJ1 or IK1, but not 100%...going to look through pics in here to try and tell which for sure
edit: from pics it appears to be IK1.
Trying to find IK1's relation to engine, etc.
nothing simple(maybe overlooked).
going to try looking at Volume 1 tomorrow to use the "starter" section.
Last edited by ConSynX; Nov 3, 2008 at 10:29 PM.
so when i did my swap i was having the same problem.. when u say its doesn't rev pass 4k.. when u throttle it does it just stop?? because the problem with mine was.. the wastegate wasn't opening up and the ecu was stoppign the car from reving pass 4k.. if i were u .. make sure all ur vacuum lines are in the right place 
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