I know i have seen similar issues and I did a search with no solid answers.. Well here is my issue

I did the 1J swap in my 92 sc300 about a month ago. Swap went smooth and I was able to start the car and let it idle. I did not drive the car so I assumed everything went perfect

This week I was able to get home and finish it all up. I went to drive it yesterday and the car is making No power. Feels like about 50 hp at max. The car starts right up, idles smotth, revs nice, but when i drive it Nothing. The boost gauge reads nice vacume and when I rev it sitting still it jumps up to zero like it should. Then when I drive it the boost will jump up to zero and as i floor it, it will actually slowly dip back into vacume like a NA car does with a boost gauge.

BAD TURBOS (locked up)???

Also when I did the swap i didn the timing belt. tensioner, waterpump etc etc. Could this be a timing issue??

The car is so slow even if the turbos werent moving I would think it would have more power than it has now.

What do you guys think I should look at? What steps should i be taking next?

Thanks a lot
BLAIR

 

hope u figure it out bro, btw what did u do about the heater lines? and what intercooler and piping is that looks great.

 

ill go over all that on my 1JZ swap thread

 

I know this will sound dumb, but make sure you have premium gas in it. Reset the ECU as many times as it will take.

 

try check your coils, caps, sparks, and wires. (whatever they are called)

 

how to you reset the ECU?

 

2 ways

remove the wires from the battery (forgot if it was red or black..)

or remove the fuse in your fuse box and then replace after like 30 secs or so.


edit: http://web.ace.net.au/soarer/ecu_reset.html

Check it

 

i have had the battery disconnected and reconnected many times.. so i guess its been reset many times already

 

Definitely either bad turbos (check for shaft play & compressor damage), wastegate isn't functioning / not closing correctly (swap it out with an aftermarket), boost controller isnt doing its job right (replace it as well), or there is a severe vacuum or boost leak somewhere.

The problem is definitely in the turbo if you're not building boost, so check that first (such as if the turbo is getting oil), then check the supporting units around the turbo.

 

if the car is idling normal then your timing is good i will cheack the fuel pump and the coilpacks is it sputtering or jus not building boost?

 

sounds like my car when i first did the swap. idled perfect, no leaks what so ever. until i took it around the block car didn't feel like 300hp. brought it back in and found out i had a blown headgasket. i would say do a compression test and go from there.

 

damn, now im scared that bad stuff like this is going to happen to me in my swap...i hope you get it fixed and it doesnt end up being a big problem

 

BAD TURBO'S

had the same problem, it never smoked or anything, drove it for a month with no power until one day the shaft inside the turbo snapped and smoke everywhere and oil everywhere. Ironically it was my front turbo that went bad. Open it up and check it.


Go single, GL

 

i mean my car is like NO power.. I wouldnt even attempt to drive it on the street its so slow. Not sure about the timing issues cause its runs and revs so smooth. My next step it to see if the turbo shafts spin freely.. then i guess it mut be a timing issue... also if it were major boost leaks i would still think the gauge would read boost and mine doesnt at all

 

i am telling you I had the same problems, accelerating I was racing Semi Trucks, and some beat me thats how slow I was. I also looked for shaft play, but I didnt feel any. So the only way you will know is to take apart the turbo's.

GL