I dare you to figure this one out.........
#46
Keeper of the light
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
This is a solid fix for the problem of the leaking valve. The variable power assist doesn't do a thing for me. Long as it works, doesn't leak, and doesn't cost me more than $3.30 to fix I'm fine with it. I have full power assist, no leaks, and full pockets.
PS- just incase someone thinks they can plug the valve openings and go..... it won't work. I tried it.
The fluid blows the caps right off even when zip tied. Here are the two outputs with rubber caps. This does NOT work.
PS- just incase someone thinks they can plug the valve openings and go..... it won't work. I tried it.
The fluid blows the caps right off even when zip tied. Here are the two outputs with rubber caps. This does NOT work.
#49
Keeper of the light
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
it drives PERFECTLY NORMAL! I've been hammering on it for almost 2 weeks with no change in how it drives normally. (remember I have 2 sc's and a very good point of reference)
#53
But I have a question. I definitely have a leak in my switch because I noticed power steering fluid inside the hose when I pulled it off the intake (actually it broke because it was so brittle). I plan to bypass the switch using O. L. T.'s method (great idea by the way!). But there is fluid all around the vacuum lines at the switch itself and I have been having to add fluid lately. Has anyone seen this happen when the switch fails? I'm hoping this is my only problem (and not the pump itself). I pulled the pump today, along with the alternator. I had been getting an intermittent battery light and I suspected a "slimed" alternator. There was definitely a film on it, but I'm replacing it because the brushes were worn down pretty far and one of the slip rings on the rotor was badly grooved. My pump was overhauled about 6 years ago and it doesn't look like it's leaking --- a lot of fluid was on the little vacuum lines connected to the switch though. Any experiences from fellow Lexus owners?
Thanks in advance for your replies!
#54
Lead Lap
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pwr str fluid loss
The "UP-IDLE PERFORATION PROBLEM" is a common one. At least to my Lex service dept. They stock the item and they stock precious little. It is common. They gave me a plug to put in and make sure my leak was comming from there before I went long for the $100 up switch.
You might be able to get this from the TOY dealer for less. Don't know.
The plug is the answer.
John
You might be able to get this from the TOY dealer for less. Don't know.
The plug is the answer.
John
#55
The "UP-IDLE PERFORATION PROBLEM" is a common one. At least to my Lex service dept. They stock the item and they stock precious little. It is common. They gave me a plug to put in and make sure my leak was comming from there before I went long for the $100 up switch.
You might be able to get this from the TOY dealer for less. Don't know.
The plug is the answer.
John
You might be able to get this from the TOY dealer for less. Don't know.
The plug is the answer.
John
Thanks!
SLEX
#56
Lead Lap
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up-idle fix
I took out my switch, actually a vac valve, and cracked the plastic housing off with a hammer. I then drove out the guts with a drift and a bigger hammer. I had a friend weld up the end that doesnt screw into the hole. The hole end is a hyd fitting. The weld held and I have no leak. The stuff with the plug seems iffy to me as the hyd sys has 1,000 psi in it and "real" hyd fittings are a must. My mod was to the exterior end and didn't upset the hi pressure fitting end. THERE IS NO PLUG FROM A MFR!
If you have this problem you probably also have an alternator problem cooking. The fluid gets into the brush and then the brush acts like a cutting tool and ruins your slip rings. The good news is that the brush and new slip rings are available at your local alt rebuilder. Take in the alt dissasembled so he just has to r&r the slip rings and you get out of there for 50-60 bucks.
John
If you have this problem you probably also have an alternator problem cooking. The fluid gets into the brush and then the brush acts like a cutting tool and ruins your slip rings. The good news is that the brush and new slip rings are available at your local alt rebuilder. Take in the alt dissasembled so he just has to r&r the slip rings and you get out of there for 50-60 bucks.
John
#57
I took out my switch, actually a vac valve, and cracked the plastic housing off with a hammer. I then drove out the guts with a drift and a bigger hammer. I had a friend weld up the end that doesnt screw into the hole. The hole end is a hyd fitting. The weld held and I have no leak. The stuff with the plug seems iffy to me as the hyd sys has 1,000 psi in it and "real" hyd fittings are a must. My mod was to the exterior end and didn't upset the hi pressure fitting end. THERE IS NO PLUG FROM A MFR!
If you have this problem you probably also have an alternator problem cooking. The fluid gets into the brush and then the brush acts like a cutting tool and ruins your slip rings. The good news is that the brush and new slip rings are available at your local alt rebuilder. Take in the alt dissasembled so he just has to r&r the slip rings and you get out of there for 50-60 bucks.
John
If you have this problem you probably also have an alternator problem cooking. The fluid gets into the brush and then the brush acts like a cutting tool and ruins your slip rings. The good news is that the brush and new slip rings are available at your local alt rebuilder. Take in the alt dissasembled so he just has to r&r the slip rings and you get out of there for 50-60 bucks.
John
#60