turbo vs swap
02-02-11, 04:50 PM
#31
once upon a time, engine manufacturers severely overbuilt every component of the engine to ensure it would last seemingly forever... then they figured out that less rotating weight = easier to make the power, and that the lighter weight, smaller rods were still more than sufficient to withstand stock power levels and then some...
02-02-11, 06:20 PM
#32
once upon a time, engine manufacturers severely overbuilt every component of the engine to ensure it would last seemingly forever... then they figured out that less rotating weight = easier to make the power, and that the lighter weight, smaller rods were still more than sufficient to withstand stock power levels and then some...
Yes that makes perfect sense to me.
I highly doubt the engineers at toyota were willing to leave the cumbersome thick rods of the older models for the very few people who would be boosting or supercharging.
Makes sense thanks
02-03-11, 05:21 AM
#33
gte & na-t
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There is no cheaper way to get to 600rwhp you will spend the money no matter what..
Some people think because it's 2jz you just slap a Turbo on it and you making power lol.
It cost alot of money to go from 500hp to 600rwhp yes alot of work and money.
I had put my kit together no labor just parts i spent over $8k on mine just parts and tuning and it was nowhere close to where i wanted to be and all the parts were brand new except the trans and ECU.
No knock off parts....
Some people think because it's 2jz you just slap a Turbo on it and you making power lol.
It cost alot of money to go from 500hp to 600rwhp yes alot of work and money.
I had put my kit together no labor just parts i spent over $8k on mine just parts and tuning and it was nowhere close to where i wanted to be and all the parts were brand new except the trans and ECU.
No knock off parts....
02-03-11, 06:40 AM
#34
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go NA-T and use your auto. rebuild the auto with a $600 IPT kit, have a local trans shop rebuild and increase the stall on your torque converter (about $200), and call suprastore.com, they have pressure tubes for the valve body for $100. the trans should then hold over 500. if not wanting to test the stock trans, spend $300 for an aristo trans, repeat above steps lol. why buy a turbonetics kit? get a drift motion kit and just upgrade the waste gate to a tial. thats $2k compared to 4k. then use the spare money for fuel reg, injectors, pump, and an afc or e-manage. 4K can almost get you a complete set-up for 500hp
02-03-11, 04:57 PM
#37
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I think both are great platforms and both have great potential-budget makes a huge difference-I built my setup with a budget in mind and made good power na-t.over 500hp.
good luck with the build-these motors are easy to make big reliable power.
Adam
good luck with the build-these motors are easy to make big reliable power.
Adam
02-04-11, 05:58 AM
#39
gte & na-t
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I had AEM on my car and my SC ran better than most stock SCs, still had 25-27 mpg i never
about gas mileage.Some people had the cold start issue i never had that, my car always start on the first try, I love AEM because when i had some timing issue my car still ran and everytime you try to go past 3k rpm it won't let you and the car will buck down, and it shows another timing error then i just "googled" the "timing error with AEM EMS" and i found the answer lol.
If i have to do it again i could do a budget build for $4k with standalone, distributorless and 600rwhp.
I never had safc on my car never wasted my time on piggybacks, i just didnt have that kind of time.
98% of the local SCs and MK4s making some great power and reliable where on ems.
02-05-11, 11:14 AM
#40
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The real question for the OP and anyone else aspiring to make some power is this. Do you actually have any conception of just how much power 500whp actually is, or are you just pulling numbers out of your butt because they sound impressive? Five hundred horsepower is a ton of power on the street, and do you really want to deal with the headaches of a turbo car cobbled together with parts from different cars, different countries, and the aftermarket every day in traffic, weather, heat, etc? I highly doubt it. Even 300whp is more than enough power to quickly get into trouble if driven every day. Plus, your setup needs to be freakin' bulletproof if you're relying on it to get you to work every day. If you're not, then drive your other car and slowly build the monster. But don't kid yourself that you'll still daily drive a firebreathing, finicky 500hp car with ten grand in the motor.
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