np20412

So I recently cleaned my air filter (hadn't been cleaned in over 20k miles). Now, when I have a cold engine, it takes 2 cranks to start up. When I start my car, I always put the key to the ON position, wait for the sound of the fuel pump engaging, and then crank. What's happening now, after I hear the fuel pump, I try to crank the engine and all of my lights go out and I hear a SINGLE click. I put the key back to the ON position, crank again, and she fires up perfectly. What is the problem here? Is it possible that because the air filter is now cleaner (hence allowing more air) that the engine is trying to pump more fuel as a result of having more air? What are the symptoms of a fuel pump that is on it's way out? Could it also be that my fuel filter is completely clogged and it can't push fuel through? In either case, I would expect it to happen a lot more often than ONLY on cold starts. Any input would be appreciated. If I shut the engine off after it's warmed, then start it again, it cranks right away.

Keep in mind that I ALSO have the occasional RPM drops at idle (it will shortly drop to about 300-400 RPMs, sputter a bit, and then recover to 800 RPMs). This leads me to believe more in the clogged fuel filter being the result of this, but again, could also be the fuel pump. If I decide to change out the fuel pump, I will obviously do the filter as well.

My car has just passed the 100k mile mark, a 1994 SC3. What should my next course of action be? I don't want to have my fuel pump fail on me one day and result in having my car towed home .

edit: I just did an oil change, throttle body cleaning, and fuel injectors cleaning as well. The air filter was the last item on my service list for the 100k mark, until spring when I do the spark plugs and distributor cap/rotor.

YZFR1

Starter is otw out? Battery getting weak.......? that seems likely......... but the other ideas you said also make sense..... how about the plugs? Caps and Rotors? hmmmmmmmm.....


Dan

np20412

Plugs, cap and rotors were dealer serviced at 65k, just before I bought the car.

ginessgold

I had the same problem some time ago... Tried to start and would hear a click. and then on the next start the car would start. Over the next couple of days the clicks would happen more and the car would start less. Till it would take maybe 10-15 clicks before the car would start.

Anyway it turned out to be an easy fix. The wire that runs from the battery to the starter just needed to be tightened on the starter. The starter is located underneath the car on the drivers side from what i remember. Just take a socket and tighten the bolt connecting the wire to the starter. I guess it has to be real tight to allow all the current to flow when you turn the ignition.

-hope it helps

np20412

Thanks, I will try this today and report back!

To get to the starter, do I have to go in through the plastic scrape shield that is under the car?

ginessgold

No, i remember the starter was behind the plastic guard. You should have access to the starter just by jacking the car up and getting under it.

Here is a link to the orginal post to save you time searching.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-1st-gen-1992-2000/71278-starting-problem.html

nnnickkk

iTrader: (2)

my car was doing the SAME thing. except i would get the click when i tried to start for up to 20 minutes sometimes. new starter solved everything.

np20412

Do starters tend to give out around 100k?

chuckb

it's actually just the starter solenoid that goes. there's a rebuild kit for $14 from toyota.
the starter in my es did the same thing at 80k.

np20412

Well I'm going to tighten up said bolt tomorrow and see if that helps, otherwise I will have to check out rebuilding the starter.

Twirl

what ever happened when you tightened the starter bolt? Did it fix it or are u replacing the starter?

np20412

I haven't got around to it yet, I need to get some tools before I can get under there and turn that bolt. I'll do it either later tonite or tomorrow.

np20412

Ok update:

So I went and I got a 14mm socket from my uncle. I put the socket on bolt, but the socket doesn't grip the bolt, it just turns on top of it just like it would if the socket were too big. Are we positive that this is a 14mm socket? Also, the socket he gave me specifically has 6 edges, is this socket fine or should I/would it make a differnce if I used one of those sockets that has lots of ridges?

Anyway, after that I proceeded to shove an adjustable wrench up in there on that bolt, and managed to turn it what felt like 1/8th of a turn to the right before the wrench came off, but it may have just been the wrench slipping on the bolt. I'm not so sure that this bolt is loose at all, it took massive power for me to get that adjustable wrench to move even a little bit.

I'd hate to have to go to the dealer and ask them what's wrong. Of course they would only tell me what's wrong, and probably do so free of charge, I will never pay them to fix anything.

np20412

Bump bump.

Anyone? This morning I started the car up on 3 turns, whereas yesterday it took 6 clicks and 4 clicks respictively on my two starts. I am beginning to think that the starter solenoid has gone awry, and it's not so much that bolt on the starter as I was unable to turn it at all. I need to know what I should do by 3:30pm today, at which point my dad is gonna make me take it to the dealer.

mkorsu

NY, 6 point or 12 point sockets. Either one, doesn't matter. 12 point just grabs a bit better. Perhaps the bolt is 12mm? I have found that the majority of the bolts on the SC are either 10, 12, or 14mm.