1992 SC400: Changing lower oil pan
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
1992 SC400: Changing lower oil pan
I need to replace the lower oil pan on my '92 SC400 because its dented as well as shifted a little, causing a leak at the seal. I have a few questions about this. First of all, is this something I can do myself? Do I need to lift the engine to do this (I'd let professionals change it in that case) or can I take it off easily? What do I need to take the old pan off? What kind of sealant do I need to apply to the new pan, and how much? How tight do I need to torque the oil pan bolts? Is there anything else I am missing? I'd like to do this within the next couple weeks since I will be due for my next Auto-RX phase, and will need to change the oil.
Thanks,
Scott
Thanks,
Scott
#2
I want to do the same soon, want to replace the rod bearings. It looks like it can be done by raising the engine a bit with the motor mounts removed. I have done similar repairs using a home-made tool that spans across the upper strut mounts to hold up the engine. Not a fun job, but much better than a full removal.
#4
Moderator
Originally Posted by sonyman
I need to replace the lower oil pan on my '92 SC400 because its dented as well as shifted a little, causing a leak at the seal. I have a few questions about this. First of all, is this something I can do myself? Do I need to lift the engine to do this (I'd let professionals change it in that case) or can I take it off easily? What do I need to take the old pan off? What kind of sealant do I need to apply to the new pan, and how much? How tight do I need to torque the oil pan bolts? Is there anything else I am missing? I'd like to do this within the next couple weeks since I will be due for my next Auto-RX phase, and will need to change the oil.
Thanks,
Scott
Thanks,
Scott
Is there a crack?
The facing (where the pan and block meet) is no longer flat?
I would not try to get the dent out as it can cause more problems.
For a good seal the facing must be absolutely flat. If it is already bent your can try to make it
straight but there will be a chance of leak when you put it together.
You should seriously consider replacing the pan.
Lexus uses a paster (FIPG) which dries out like rubber forming a gasket. Check for the torque setting ... trans-pan it was 16 in-lb
If you enjoy DIY project it should be a good one to take on. Price it out and see how much a pro would charge you for replacing the pan.
Salim
Your best bet is going to be to replace the pan.
#5
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks for you help Salim. I do plan on replacing the pan, not banging out the dent. The leak is at the front of the pan near the engine, where the upper and lower pans meet. I need to replace my engine mounts anyway, but wouldn't know where to begin on that one. Mine are practically nonexistant, and the engine moves around when coming on/off the accelerator.
Scott
Scott
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Well I finally got the pan from Carson toyota (thanks Luis!) but I still need to know exactly how to apply the FIPG. There is a groove to follow on the mating surface of the pan, but what do I do when I come to a screw hole? Also, is there a tightening sequence to follow with the screws? I'm hoping to have this completed on Sunday.
Scott
Scott
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#8
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Originally Posted by sonyman
Well I finally got the pan from Carson toyota (thanks Luis!) but I still need to know exactly how to apply the FIPG. There is a groove to follow on the mating surface of the pan, but what do I do when I come to a screw hole? Also, is there a tightening sequence to follow with the screws? I'm hoping to have this completed on Sunday.
Scott
Scott
pattern & walk your way around the pan continuing the cross. then go back & re-torque or
tighten all the bolts. all the bolts have a shoulder that they bottom out on, that maintains
the proper thickness of the sealant. (toyota thicks of everything)
good luck
john
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