soarer 1jzgte swap guide
02-25-05, 08:06 PM
#1
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soarer 1jzgte swap guide
these are some of the things i can think of about the swap into a sc300:
1.extend the wiring harness 2'1" and its best to cut and heatshrink the new solder connections then once finished wrap very tightly wiith electrical tape.DO NOT CUT THE KNOCK SENSOR WIRES.i had the biggest mess with that. they are the bigger brown coaxial wires in the loom. i suggest either running brand new wires or take the wires off your old 2jzge.
2.be prepared to buy new motor mounts. 3 out of 4 broke due to age while taking both motors out
3.when you remove the factory sc airbox you will see a "pop out" for the intercooler piping to route through.there is also a bracket off the clip you need to pull off to mount the factory soarer side-mount. its near the passenger side tow hook on both cars.
4.everything bolts up including the stock exhaust to the 1jzgte downpipe.
5.you will either have to use the soarer throttle cable(which is way to long) or you can buy the mkiv supra throttle cable. the stock cables is inches too short.
6.you can also use the brakes off the clip and rear crossmember. they are 1" bigger rotors and "beefier" calipers
here some websites you can go to.
http://www.************/
http://www.supraforums.com/ under the mkiii section then 1jz/2jz swap info
http://www.intellexual.net/faq.html
tips for the swap:
its best to unplug the harness from inside the car. unplug the clips from the ecu and there are a couple of clips around there you need to unplug included a blue clip for the airbags(i think, not sure its been a while) thats kinda hard to get to. you will see what im talking about when you try to pull the harness out from the engine bay and it doesnt slide out. i didn't pull the harness off the motor its just more work you dont need to do. after i pulled the 1jz out of the clip and put the motor on a engine stand i pulled the motor next to a table to extend the harness. itsjust easier that way
for a 5-speed car you need to run a wire off the starter to the ignition to bypass the neutral start switch.we were finished with the swap and it wouldnt crank so it took us several hours looking at wiring diagrams to find that the ecu didnt know it was in "park" so it wouldnt turn over.
theres probally alot more to it than this but i cant think of anything else thats difficult. email me with any questions at
Drift180sxlsd@hotmail.com
good luck and remember there will always be things that come up that you didnt plan spending money on so make sure you have some extra bank before the swap(motor mounts,throttle cable,extra wire,and so on)
1.extend the wiring harness 2'1" and its best to cut and heatshrink the new solder connections then once finished wrap very tightly wiith electrical tape.DO NOT CUT THE KNOCK SENSOR WIRES.i had the biggest mess with that. they are the bigger brown coaxial wires in the loom. i suggest either running brand new wires or take the wires off your old 2jzge.
2.be prepared to buy new motor mounts. 3 out of 4 broke due to age while taking both motors out
3.when you remove the factory sc airbox you will see a "pop out" for the intercooler piping to route through.there is also a bracket off the clip you need to pull off to mount the factory soarer side-mount. its near the passenger side tow hook on both cars.
4.everything bolts up including the stock exhaust to the 1jzgte downpipe.
5.you will either have to use the soarer throttle cable(which is way to long) or you can buy the mkiv supra throttle cable. the stock cables is inches too short.
6.you can also use the brakes off the clip and rear crossmember. they are 1" bigger rotors and "beefier" calipers
here some websites you can go to.
http://www.************/
http://www.supraforums.com/ under the mkiii section then 1jz/2jz swap info
http://www.intellexual.net/faq.html
tips for the swap:
its best to unplug the harness from inside the car. unplug the clips from the ecu and there are a couple of clips around there you need to unplug included a blue clip for the airbags(i think, not sure its been a while) thats kinda hard to get to. you will see what im talking about when you try to pull the harness out from the engine bay and it doesnt slide out. i didn't pull the harness off the motor its just more work you dont need to do. after i pulled the 1jz out of the clip and put the motor on a engine stand i pulled the motor next to a table to extend the harness. itsjust easier that way
for a 5-speed car you need to run a wire off the starter to the ignition to bypass the neutral start switch.we were finished with the swap and it wouldnt crank so it took us several hours looking at wiring diagrams to find that the ecu didnt know it was in "park" so it wouldnt turn over.
theres probally alot more to it than this but i cant think of anything else thats difficult. email me with any questions at
Drift180sxlsd@hotmail.com
good luck and remember there will always be things that come up that you didnt plan spending money on so make sure you have some extra bank before the swap(motor mounts,throttle cable,extra wire,and so on)
03-01-05, 08:25 AM
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good stuff......but definately not all that hard to do ...please dont be discouraged.....i just knocked mine out more or less blindly....
i just barely came back to tthis board like i said i would.
i just barely came back to tthis board like i said i would.
Last edited by vududoc; 03-02-05 at 07:48 AM.
03-01-05, 10:40 AM
#7
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great write up indeed. Makes it look so easy that it just about has me set on the 1jz for my fi dreams. Just one question. Will the harness plug into the cabin harness or does that need to be spliced with the stock harness like you have to do with the 2jzgte swap?
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03-01-05, 07:33 PM
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all the clips plug up.a couple of other things
1.the coolant temp gauge pegs hot. there is a wire off the stock wiring that you have to cut and ground. if you look at the clips inside the car by the ecu not on it you should see one wire going in the back side and nothing coming out of the other.just cut it and groung anywhere available.
2. the rpm gauge also doesnt work im still trying to figure that one out i have a number to a guy that knows how to fix the problem.ill post up as soon as i get in touch with him.
3.check engine light doesnt work either.still working on that one.unfortunatly every time i want to check my check engine light i have to put the soarer digital gauge cluster in.
ill keep you updated and again i dont know if its only because my car is 5-speed and maybe the wiring harness differs somehow.
1.the coolant temp gauge pegs hot. there is a wire off the stock wiring that you have to cut and ground. if you look at the clips inside the car by the ecu not on it you should see one wire going in the back side and nothing coming out of the other.just cut it and groung anywhere available.
2. the rpm gauge also doesnt work im still trying to figure that one out i have a number to a guy that knows how to fix the problem.ill post up as soon as i get in touch with him.
3.check engine light doesnt work either.still working on that one.unfortunatly every time i want to check my check engine light i have to put the soarer digital gauge cluster in.
ill keep you updated and again i dont know if its only because my car is 5-speed and maybe the wiring harness differs somehow.
03-02-05, 07:17 AM
#9
Originally Posted by SCdrifter
2. the rpm gauge also doesnt work im still trying to figure that one out i have a number to a guy that knows how to fix the problem.ill post up as soon as i get in touch with him.
03-02-05, 08:00 AM
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i really didnt want to convert over to the digital cluster but looks like i may have to. 
after readin this...
Does anyone have the USDM wiring for the SC.....
Im sure theres a way to X ref and be able to get the stuff workin.
after readin this...Does anyone have the USDM wiring for the SC.....
Im sure theres a way to X ref and be able to get the stuff workin.
Last edited by vududoc; 03-02-05 at 08:15 AM.
03-02-05, 02:20 PM
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im decyphering the wiring right now....there are certain things that i am noticing...since my swap is the VVTI. certain things are basic...the plugs plug right it....
depending on the dash cluster and auto or manual...is a different thing.
im more concerned with the vitals on the controls....
i think i have the tach wire knocked out too.
still trying to get it and colaborate.
not to mention decypher japanese encoded wire colors.
depending on the dash cluster and auto or manual...is a different thing.
im more concerned with the vitals on the controls....
i think i have the tach wire knocked out too.
still trying to get it and colaborate.
not to mention decypher japanese encoded wire colors.