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Im not totally against relocating the battery, dont like the idea of battery fumes in my trunk. Also I went with a lighter battery and would have slow starting in cold weather. I think if you spend more money on a lighter H.P. battery would be the way to go. they're expensive.
I run a Braille battery behind the passenger seat inside the cabin. It's a sealed lead acid. Braille's aren't cheap, but they are very light and dependable.
Still I don't recommend the smaller ones for daily use. They can work, but they have a low reserve capacity
moving battery is not in the spirit of overall weight reduction, but balancing out the car. The stock battery is at the nose, putting 40 lbs right at the far end nose of the car. moving this into the trunk moves weight over the rear wheels which is good for this car, especially if you already removed your spare tire. Either keeping the stock battery or going with a smaller one.
I think it would be nice to get the extra room in the engine compartment also, just not ready to commit, but thanks for the parts list Marko. Would def. go with trunk compared to rear seat area. So you ran the ground cable all the way to the block?
you only run the +12v cable back, ground goes to chassis, so block to chassis in the front of the car and battery to chassis in the back, grind away some paint and install a stud or find a bolt that grounds. the car itself is the common/ground.
adding a datapoint here, stock spring/shock assembly weights 57 lbs for 4 corners, CXracing coilovers are 42 lbs for all 4, 15 lbs reduction. this is using my bathroom scale, so probably +-1 lb accuracy.
Got my Advan hood in the mail. They were hoping to make it 20lbs, but they contacted me saying when they were done, they got it to 25lbs and to get it down to 20lbs it'd be too flexible for a street car. So I told them 25 was OK. I haven't actually weighed it myself yet, but it is definitely pretty light when we carried it into the garage. Hopefully I can get it mounted at some point to see how the fitment is!
likaboss22, I removed my A.C., condensor coil, dryer, prob. i5-20 lbs. It also frees up engine bay area. Helps with oil filter changes. There are days in the summer when I miss it, not sure it worked anyway. The aluminum lines and fittings get brittle and weak.
likaboss22, I removed my A.C., condensor coil, dryer, prob. i5-20 lbs. It also frees up engine bay area. Helps with oil filter changes. There are days in the summer when I miss it, not sure it worked anyway. The aluminum lines and fittings get brittle and weak.
-The entire heater core assembly
-The whole dash and ac condenser along with the evaporator
-the rear harness (deletes abs)
-cruise control
-spare tire/ jack
-all stereo equipment (there's a lot of hidden amps)
- oem wheel replaced with momo
- sparco seats replaced oem seats
- carpet and all rear seats and oem seat belts
-moonroof and motor completely deleted along with headliner
- all interior panels
- all sound deadening removed and firewall
- battery relocated to trunk
- mufflers and resonators deleted
- carbon fiber mirrors replaced own mirrors (oem mirrors are actually heavy!)
- replaced oem shocks with coilovers
Hoping to get a cf hood soon, my 2gz nat build and my 3" straight pipe on, also a new 3 row radiator very soon! Also a cage is being built I'll post progress as it comes along feel free to ask any questions
Goal is to be in the low 2900 range after cage and it's looking promising !
Gutted interior and Budweiser e brake 😉
Getting ready for the new radiator, serpentine belt and electric fan shroud conversion
12-17-15, 12:39 PM
