Quick and dirty write up of my experience doing electric PS.
Parts list:
Drift Motion 16mm x1.5 to AN -6 Rack Pressure fitting
Chase Bays 14.1.5 to AN -6 Return fitting
6 AWG -3/8 Ring Copper Battery Lugs and shrink wrap
Fragola 498103 Female/Male Flare 90
Fragola 491963 -6 x16mm 1.5 Fl Male
Fragola 280206 Z -6 Clamp
Fragola 498003 -6 Female to Male 45
Russell Nitrous and Fuel Line -6 AN
6AN Hose Seperator Clamps
PTFE Sealant Tape
Cable Lug Crimping tool
Cable cutters
Vibrant 21906 -6AN 90
Evil Energy 6 AN Fuel Line
6 gauge wire - 10 ft/ red/10ft/black
Volvo electric pump (built in reservoir type)
1/2" Square tubing
Rubber isolators
Nuts and bolts x3
AN line isolators.
Line mounts
60 amp breaker
The lines need to be at least 14 ft long to run neat. The Z30 is a boat. Even the Power line needed to be more than 10ft but since the ground line was short I used the rest of the black in the engine bay to avoid having a bright red wire in there.
The volvo pump has 3 mounting holes. I made a bracket to fit it in the back right corner of the trunk. I wanted it on the left because I have a 300 and it would have been the shortest distance to the battery and rack lines, but the antenna was in the way.
Welded the mount to the trunk floor and test fitted the pump to make sure there wasn't any warping.
Cut holes for lines (vac lines to protect edges) and ran power wire through back firewall and ground wire to chassis in trunk.
Painted trunk
Ran the power wire through the main harness hole by the firewall and added the breaker near the battery. Not only does this protect from power surges but you can cut the power to the pump if you are needed to diag with ACC without the pump running.
Signal 12v wire to fuel pump ecu (bypassed)
Routed pressure and return lines to rack, away from exhaust as much as possible. I had to order more length of line as 10ft was not nearly enough. I ended up with a bit extra, but 14 should be enough to route it nicely.
I kept AC in my car so I didn't delete the PS pump. Heat Lightening makes an idler so you can but its $200. I just looped my line and filed it so the pump doesn't eat itself. Ill probably make my own idler later.
Bled rack with front wheels in the air, again on ground.
Curious, but why in the trunk and not in the engine bay? And what kind of current draw/battery drain does it put on the battery with ignition on/engine off? Pretty cool, otherwise. Nice to see as an option.
Curious, but why in the trunk and not in the engine bay? And what kind of current draw/battery drain does it put on the battery with ignition on/engine off? Pretty cool, otherwise. Nice to see as an option.
I struggled finding space for a catch can much less this monstrocity. SC is already front heavy anyway so putting it in front of the rear wheel opposite the driver helps weight distro a tiny bit and the extra length of line means I can eliminate my ps cooler. I want to move the battery to the rear too. No noticeable power drain.
