pishta

Son says battery light is on so we're charging it every night after he gets home as I got no time to futz with this job. Turns out the job is only a 20 minute affair and you don't even need to get under it! I get the youtube videos memorized and I attack the issue. Pull the negative battery line off the battery. Get a 14mm socket on the belt tensioner and crank it left to loosen the serpentine belt. Remove the long bottom bolt, it has a bracket on it for some hoses, 5 minutes. Remove the top nut on the stud. Slide the alternator forward off this stud and let it sit on the trans lines. Now you can unplug the round electrical socket and access the 13mm battery cable nut. Now the hardest part, lifting this up and out between the idler and the hydraulic fan line. With a little wiggling and prying it should come straight up.and out. I used a tie down strap with the hook in the alternator bolt hole to hoist it out as it was easier on my back hunched over the nose. Remove the 4 Nuts on the back cover and remove the 2 screws for brush holder then 3 screws removes the regulator. Check brushes and test slip ring continuity with an ohm meter, mine was 3.7 ohm between slip rings and none to ground. So far so good. Remove the 4 screws that hold the bridge rectifier on and take it off. Flip it over and look fornany burn marks, mine was toasted!


So i ended up getting a $163 rebuild from autozone

So I bought one that night and got it in as i was pressed for time but that rectifier is available online as part INR733P (Denso 100-120A w/130mm OD stator) for $42.95 and probably cheaper with a little research <<<$17.35 if you choose Aluminum heatsink model! https://vpselectric.com/inr733pal-rect-nd-al >>. The 8 x 40A diodes are only about 50 cents a piece but am not sure how they mount to the riveted heatsink. Who knew this part also fits a 96-07 John Deere! Slip rings were perfect and the brushes were worn but still in spec. These alternators are very modular, every component just discounts with screws. Good design to rebuild.

pishta

Alternator are the easiest thing to rebuild on most any car as they rarely crap out mechanically, they are mostly electrical issues besides bearings. Usually a modern rebuilt alternator generally is all but a cleaning, some new $3 brushes and some 2 buck bearings and they get $160 for 'em all day! $110 on Amazon , look up

DB Electrical 400-52501

YMMV but its worth looking into this if you got the time to order this stuff.


here is a breakdown of a repair kit parts list for reference:

• Voltage Regulator 12 Volt, A-Circuit, S-IG-L Terminals, 14.5 Voltage Set Point, w/ LRC Replaces Denso 126000-1110, 126000-1260, 126000-1270, Toyota 27700-46030, 27700-46040 / IN438
• Rectifier Diode Assembly - 113mm OD, M6 x 1.0 x 43mm Battery Terminal, 8-50A diodes, 12 Volt - INR733P <NOTE: some list INR733P/INR733AL as Lexus M8 terminal size>>
• Attaching Screw x5, Rectifier Brush Holder Screw M4 x 0.7 x 5.7mm L for Denso 949006-5460, 949007-3370, 949007-3930, 949007-6280, 96909016 - 85-1205 x5
• WBD Bearing 55222 17x52x16mm - 10-3042-4W
• WBD Bearing 53514 15x35x13mm - 10-2021-4W
• Brush Holder Assembly Ref# 021620-2530, 021620-2720 - 39-8203
• 7390901 X 2 Brushes for Spare 5mm T x 7mm W x 15mm L x 48mm LL
• Slip Ring 8.9 ID 14.6 OD 23.9 Length 7190904A, 313-52001 - 28-82853