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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 10:02 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by hklexusnx
It seems the front woofer and tweeter are divided by pioneer amp.
Can I merge them in 1 channel then go into the aftermarket amp for amplifying?

No you can't do this , you have to get an adapter to do that , you can see at JL audio /Audiocontrol/HELIX DSP to this function .The Helix dsp is the best to do this
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 10:31 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by hklexusnx
It seems the front woofer and tweeter are divided by pioneer amp.
Can I merge them in 1 channel then go into the aftermarket amp for amplifying?
No don't do that. Like I said don't use the hi level on your amp. Get a dsp, if u don't wanna spend lots go get a audio control lc6i or 7i. This allow u to sum all your channel to have a flat frequencies then u can run that alpine amp. I have a Use lc7i for sale. I also have 1 bit ten, 2 bit one, 1 mosconi 6-8, 360.3 and a bunch of helix processors.
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 10:43 PM
  #48  
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I found it is best to tap into front mids and the rear full for high level. This is what I did in my 2013 GS. For the Nx I tap into the sub with a audison loc cause I'm not planning to rip out my stock speakers. I also coulda tap into the rear full too but with that it will make my subs more punchy.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 04:45 AM
  #49  
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Vietjoe77. I bump this for u in case u can't find it.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 07:04 PM
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Thanks so much Rozay.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 07:13 PM
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Do you think I can just tab the line out converter to the fl, rl, rr and fr to the factory stereo, with the 9 speaker wire . Then follow the wire diagram to connect the speakers. ..from the factory stereo? ...just leave out the factory amp?
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 08:47 PM
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Thanks rozay
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 12:26 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by VietJoE77
Do you think I can just tab the line out converter to the fl, rl, rr and fr to the factory stereo, with the 9 speaker wire . Then follow the wire diagram to connect the speakers. ..from the factory stereo? ...just leave out the factory amp?
Are u running a 4 ch converter? What r u trying to do? Subwoofer, changing the speakers?
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 03:30 PM
  #54  
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Hi, does anyone know where I can find the wiring diagram for my head unit? I own a 2016 NX 200T and I am trying to install one of those bazooka tubes, thanks in advance.
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 10:23 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by mgrainford
Hi, does anyone know where I can find the wiring diagram for my head unit? I own a 2016 NX 200T and I am trying to install one of those bazooka tubes, thanks in advance.
Do a search on the nx forum. I posted one a while ago.
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 05:15 AM
  #56  
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Hi im hoping you help me out
I have the ML system on my NX. I changed all speakers and added 2 subs + 1 Jl XD800/8v2 amp for all speakers + 1 kicker KXA 1600.1 for subs + audiocontrol dsp DM810 but im getting too much floor noise not engine noise it sounds like pink noise and when i increase the gain on the amp this noise gets very loud. The dsp is detecting distortion or clipping when the HU volume is above 41 so i have to tune it at 40. Do i need a new dsp or tune it to 50 or 55 volume and lower the gains? What do you have your system tuned at which volume with 0 floor noise?
If you can also send me ML wiring diagram would be great.
I will really appreciate any help
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by aamdada
Hi im hoping you help me out
I have the ML system on my NX. I changed all speakers and added 2 subs + 1 Jl XD800/8v2 amp for all speakers + 1 kicker KXA 1600.1 for subs + audiocontrol dsp DM810 but im getting too much floor noise not engine noise it sounds like pink noise and when i increase the gain on the amp this noise gets very loud. The dsp is detecting distortion or clipping when the HU volume is above 41 so i have to tune it at 40. Do i need a new dsp or tune it to 50 or 55 volume and lower the gains? What do you have your system tuned at which volume with 0 floor noise?
If you can also send me ML wiring diagram would be great.
I will really appreciate any help

Hi i will just tell you 4 things to help you:

1)take a look at your input gain on the sofware and the summing output level
change them to avoid hiss and noise floor

2) The audicontrol is for me close to the Helix (that i prefer) , the noise floor issue is rare but you can see this
http://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledg...umpers-dm-810/
there is a jumper for ground issue and you have a ground issue

3) Class D amplifier has a reputation to have a lot of noise , they are now better in term of noise (signal ratio ) but they still noisy . But we are far of the noise floor you have.

4) if The problem persists take an Helix dsp, you will not be disapointed...


Is it possible to get a thread with your install , i wil ldo mine soon with the Artisant spirit body kit and ODR full car audio
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 10:05 AM
  #58  
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Yea I can do the thread. Thanks man and btw at what volume do you have urs tuned at?
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 10:19 AM
  #59  
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all is tuned at 90db (repectively 40 with my amplifiers on the Hu )
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 06:06 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by ramses974
Hi i will just tell you 4 things to help you:

1)take a look at your input gain on the sofware and the summing output level
change them to avoid hiss and noise floor

2) The audicontrol is for me close to the Helix (that i prefer) , the noise floor issue is rare but you can see this
http://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledg...umpers-dm-810/
there is a jumper for ground issue and you have a ground issue

3) Class D amplifier has a reputation to have a lot of noise , they are now better in term of noise (signal ratio ) but they still noisy . But we are far of the noise floor you have.

4) if The problem persists take an Helix dsp, you will not be disapointed...


Is it possible to get a thread with your install , i wil ldo mine soon with the Artisant spirit body kit and ODR full car audio

Audio control is an excellent device to use but very susceptible to ground issues. It's not uncommon for pink noise and pops. When I completed in car stereo competitions for sound quality class D amps were notorious for pops and hiss when put with audio control units thus I switched to UCS pro later. I usually had to use some form of relay system to power on class D amp prior to brining on audio control unit and input filtering as this quoted poster stated. For my systems with really big sub amps (multiple parallel units), I would use a dedicated battery to the audio processor which was disconnected from the rest of the car so that device could be isolated. I'm also going to assume that you've used proper RCA cables and don't run power and signal wire parallel to each other. My SQL car scored mid 90s at MECA SQL competitions and would register 154 dB at the drivers head rest at 37Hz with a single 12" sub and didn't rattle outside of car. I miss those days, but my wife doesn't....lol
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