Vibratio When idling in D
Cheers everyone!
I have a problem with my Lexus nx 200t 2017.
When car is idling in D I feel substantial vibration. When switched to N vibration goes away.
I replaced transmission mount with new one and vibration dissapeared for a couple of days but returned again. I checked the new mount and it seems to be OK.
I am starting to wonder if other mounts are damaged and put extra load on transmission mount.
Could you advise how can I solve this problem. it is getting on my nerves))
I have a problem with my Lexus nx 200t 2017.
When car is idling in D I feel substantial vibration. When switched to N vibration goes away.
I replaced transmission mount with new one and vibration dissapeared for a couple of days but returned again. I checked the new mount and it seems to be OK.
I am starting to wonder if other mounts are damaged and put extra load on transmission mount.
Could you advise how can I solve this problem. it is getting on my nerves))
Cheers everyone!
I have a problem with my Lexus nx 200t 2017.
When car is idling in D I feel substantial vibration. When switched to N vibration goes away.
I replaced transmission mount with new one and vibration dissapeared for a couple of days but returned again. I checked the new mount and it seems to be OK.
I am starting to wonder if other mounts are damaged and put extra load on transmission mount.
Could you advise how can I solve this problem. it is getting on my nerves))
I have a problem with my Lexus nx 200t 2017.
When car is idling in D I feel substantial vibration. When switched to N vibration goes away.
I replaced transmission mount with new one and vibration dissapeared for a couple of days but returned again. I checked the new mount and it seems to be OK.
I am starting to wonder if other mounts are damaged and put extra load on transmission mount.
Could you advise how can I solve this problem. it is getting on my nerves))
First off — Welcome to the Club and Congrats on your 1st post!!
That said — I have not had this issue and hope someone will chime in and offer helpful advice on what’s going on with your NX.
If you’re able to resolve the issue on your own, please provide what was found / diagnosed and how you were able to resolve it so we can pass on knowledge and helpful info for the next person.
Thanks much

When you say "idling in D" are you at a full stop with your foot on the brake?
If so, what do you experience when you have it in a lower gear, foot on the brake?
What about in REVERSE, foot on the brake?
The answers may help lead you to the root cause of the problem.
Also, what happens if you are in "D", on a clear (NO traffic) road, but do not give it any gas? In other words, just let the car move forward while in "D". Do you still feel the vibration?
How many miles on the vehicle?
If so, what do you experience when you have it in a lower gear, foot on the brake?
What about in REVERSE, foot on the brake?
The answers may help lead you to the root cause of the problem.
Also, what happens if you are in "D", on a clear (NO traffic) road, but do not give it any gas? In other words, just let the car move forward while in "D". Do you still feel the vibration?
How many miles on the vehicle?
Last edited by LexMan2003; Apr 19, 2026 at 12:26 PM.
When you say "idling in D" are you at a full stop with your foot on the brake?
If so, what do you experience when you have it in a lower gear, foot on the brake?
What about in REVERSE, foot on the brake?
The answers may help lead you to the root cause of the problem.
Also, what happens if you are in "D", on a clear (NO traffic) road, but do not give it any gas? In other words, just let the car move forward while in "D". Do you still feel the vibration?
How many miles on the vehicle?
If so, what do you experience when you have it in a lower gear, foot on the brake?
What about in REVERSE, foot on the brake?
The answers may help lead you to the root cause of the problem.
Also, what happens if you are in "D", on a clear (NO traffic) road, but do not give it any gas? In other words, just let the car move forward while in "D". Do you still feel the vibration?
How many miles on the vehicle?
Thanks for reply. Vibrations appears when i press on brake when car in D and car is at full stop.
What do you experience when you have it in a lower gear, foot on the brake?
What about in REVERSE, foot on the brake?
The answers may help lead you to the root cause of the problem.
Also, what happens if you are in "D", on a clear (NO traffic) road, but do not give it any gas? In other words, just let the car move forward while in "D". Do you still feel the vibration?
How many miles on the vehicle?
What about in REVERSE, foot on the brake?
The answers may help lead you to the root cause of the problem.
Also, what happens if you are in "D", on a clear (NO traffic) road, but do not give it any gas? In other words, just let the car move forward while in "D". Do you still feel the vibration?
How many miles on the vehicle?
What do you experience when you have it in a lower gear, foot on the brake?
What about in REVERSE, foot on the brake?
The answers may help lead you to the root cause of the problem.
Also, what happens if you are in "D", on a clear (NO traffic) road, but do not give it any gas? In other words, just let the car move forward while in "D". Do you still feel the vibration?
How many miles on the vehicle?
What about in REVERSE, foot on the brake?
The answers may help lead you to the root cause of the problem.
Also, what happens if you are in "D", on a clear (NO traffic) road, but do not give it any gas? In other words, just let the car move forward while in "D". Do you still feel the vibration?
How many miles on the vehicle?
What is engine RPM when car is stationary ( foot on brake) in D and R and vibrations are being felt ?
Scanner reading is best/accurate but in its absence vehicle tach reading will do for now.
I'm assuming when tranny in N or P engine RPM increases and no vibration. What is engine RPM in this state?
Readings taken only after engine is thoroughly warmed up.
What is the difference in the two readings ?
Your RPM reading for a warm engine with tranny in D or R should be 600 RPM or a tad higher and increases to 650 w/tranny in N or P.
Numbers quoted above are not cast in stone but are generally valid as what a normal operating engine/tranny should behave after an initial warm up period.
Scanner reading is best/accurate but in its absence vehicle tach reading will do for now.
I'm assuming when tranny in N or P engine RPM increases and no vibration. What is engine RPM in this state?
Readings taken only after engine is thoroughly warmed up.
What is the difference in the two readings ?
Your RPM reading for a warm engine with tranny in D or R should be 600 RPM or a tad higher and increases to 650 w/tranny in N or P.
Numbers quoted above are not cast in stone but are generally valid as what a normal operating engine/tranny should behave after an initial warm up period.
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What is engine RPM when car is stationary ( foot on brake) in D and R and vibrations are being felt ?
Scanner reading is best/accurate but in its absence vehicle tach reading will do for now.
I'm assuming when tranny in N or P engine RPM increases and no vibration. What is engine RPM in this state?
Readings taken only after engine is thoroughly warmed up.
What is the difference in the two readings ?
Your RPM reading for a warm engine with tranny in D or R should be 600 RPM or a tad higher and increases to 650 w/tranny in N or P.
Numbers quoted above are not cast in stone but are generally valid as what a normal operating engine/tranny should behave after an initial warm up period.
Scanner reading is best/accurate but in its absence vehicle tach reading will do for now.
I'm assuming when tranny in N or P engine RPM increases and no vibration. What is engine RPM in this state?
Readings taken only after engine is thoroughly warmed up.
What is the difference in the two readings ?
Your RPM reading for a warm engine with tranny in D or R should be 600 RPM or a tad higher and increases to 650 w/tranny in N or P.
Numbers quoted above are not cast in stone but are generally valid as what a normal operating engine/tranny should behave after an initial warm up period.
My '16 NX200t is in winter storage but coming back into service for the summer in the next couple of days. I'll check RPMs then for similarity with what you 're experiencing w/yours.
The jump from 600 to 750 seems high ( but I stand to be corrected ).
The jump from 600 to 750 seems high ( but I stand to be corrected ).
Vehicle off storage and took it for drive into town & back ( 60 mins total ).
This what I observed with my '16 NX200t:
- With a warm engine, RPM was 750 in P & N ( exactly like yours )
- Again with warm engine, RPM was high 600's and close to the 750 indicator mark on tach display. Conditions were: Brake ON, tranny in D or R. I did not connect my scanner while taking readings.
My guess on your condition:
- Warm engine RPM @ 600, brake ON, tranny in D or R and vibrations felt would suggest to me engine RPM too low and on cusp of torque converter engaging & disengaging producing said vibrations. To check this theory: - With warm engine, brake ON, tranny in D or R, increase engine RPM to 700 -750. If vibrations disappear we can conclude engine RPM is involved. Question is why engine ECU is not responding i.e. increasing RPM hence engine torque when a load ( tranny shifted to D or R w/brake ON) is present.
Did this vibration phenomenon just happened out of the blue i.e. with no work done to vehicle prior ? Anyone been under the hood doing regular maintenance work , like topping up fluids etc. ? Just checking that elect connections were not accidently disturbed.
If have scanner, check to see if there are any DTC's recorded.
Solution may be as simple as increasing engine RPM a tad closer to hi 600's -700.
This what I observed with my '16 NX200t:
- With a warm engine, RPM was 750 in P & N ( exactly like yours )
- Again with warm engine, RPM was high 600's and close to the 750 indicator mark on tach display. Conditions were: Brake ON, tranny in D or R. I did not connect my scanner while taking readings.
My guess on your condition:
- Warm engine RPM @ 600, brake ON, tranny in D or R and vibrations felt would suggest to me engine RPM too low and on cusp of torque converter engaging & disengaging producing said vibrations. To check this theory: - With warm engine, brake ON, tranny in D or R, increase engine RPM to 700 -750. If vibrations disappear we can conclude engine RPM is involved. Question is why engine ECU is not responding i.e. increasing RPM hence engine torque when a load ( tranny shifted to D or R w/brake ON) is present.
Did this vibration phenomenon just happened out of the blue i.e. with no work done to vehicle prior ? Anyone been under the hood doing regular maintenance work , like topping up fluids etc. ? Just checking that elect connections were not accidently disturbed.
If have scanner, check to see if there are any DTC's recorded.
Solution may be as simple as increasing engine RPM a tad closer to hi 600's -700.
Vehicle off storage and took it for drive into town & back ( 60 mins total ).
This what I observed with my '16 NX200t:
- With a warm engine, RPM was 750 in P & N ( exactly like yours )
- Again with warm engine, RPM was high 600's and close to the 750 indicator mark on tach display. Conditions were: Brake ON, tranny in D or R. I did not connect my scanner while taking readings.
My guess on your condition:
- Warm engine RPM @ 600, brake ON, tranny in D or R and vibrations felt would suggest to me engine RPM too low and on cusp of torque converter engaging & disengaging producing said vibrations. To check this theory: - With warm engine, brake ON, tranny in D or R, increase engine RPM to 700 -750. If vibrations disappear we can conclude engine RPM is involved. Question is why engine ECU is not responding i.e. increasing RPM hence engine torque when a load ( tranny shifted to D or R w/brake ON) is present.
Did this vibration phenomenon just happened out of the blue i.e. with no work done to vehicle prior ? Anyone been under the hood doing regular maintenance work , like topping up fluids etc. ? Just checking that elect connections were not accidently disturbed.
If have scanner, check to see if there are any DTC's recorded.
Solution may be as simple as increasing engine RPM a tad closer to hi 600's -700.
This what I observed with my '16 NX200t:
- With a warm engine, RPM was 750 in P & N ( exactly like yours )
- Again with warm engine, RPM was high 600's and close to the 750 indicator mark on tach display. Conditions were: Brake ON, tranny in D or R. I did not connect my scanner while taking readings.
My guess on your condition:
- Warm engine RPM @ 600, brake ON, tranny in D or R and vibrations felt would suggest to me engine RPM too low and on cusp of torque converter engaging & disengaging producing said vibrations. To check this theory: - With warm engine, brake ON, tranny in D or R, increase engine RPM to 700 -750. If vibrations disappear we can conclude engine RPM is involved. Question is why engine ECU is not responding i.e. increasing RPM hence engine torque when a load ( tranny shifted to D or R w/brake ON) is present.
Did this vibration phenomenon just happened out of the blue i.e. with no work done to vehicle prior ? Anyone been under the hood doing regular maintenance work , like topping up fluids etc. ? Just checking that elect connections were not accidently disturbed.
If have scanner, check to see if there are any DTC's recorded.
Solution may be as simple as increasing engine RPM a tad closer to hi 600's -700.
- Spark plugs OEM quality from dealership or reputable auto parts store and not possibly cheaper knock-offs from Amazon or Ebay ? Knock-off plug(s) are known for causing misfirings & etc to name one most frequently observed.
- Presume you're aware that vehicle alternator w/factory settings is not able to charge AGM battery fully. Believe AGM battery needs 14.2 + volts to fully charge which stock alternator is not able to do. Check threads in this forum and others on the subject and the solutions to correct.. I have came across them but cannot recall from which forum. Mentioning this that by chance vibrations was related to a electrical induced fault.
- Presume you're aware that vehicle alternator w/factory settings is not able to charge AGM battery fully. Believe AGM battery needs 14.2 + volts to fully charge which stock alternator is not able to do. Check threads in this forum and others on the subject and the solutions to correct.. I have came across them but cannot recall from which forum. Mentioning this that by chance vibrations was related to a electrical induced fault.
Interesting.
My 2017 (75 K) also has a slight vibration stopped, in D, foot on brake. If I slightly release the brake the vibration largely disappears. This car has always exhibited this in my 3 years of ownership. Has not changed.
I think this is normal for a four cylinder engine even with a balance shaft.
My 2017 (75 K) also has a slight vibration stopped, in D, foot on brake. If I slightly release the brake the vibration largely disappears. This car has always exhibited this in my 3 years of ownership. Has not changed.
I think this is normal for a four cylinder engine even with a balance shaft.
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