Member Help thread from a Lexus Certified Technician
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: NY
Ok let me rephrase this a little. With the NA (non-turbo) models 2jzge and the 2jzge VVT-i are the internals the same between these two or are the VVT-i internals weaker.
Im pretty much looking to push the stock fuel as much as i can reliably. 9psi maybe 10, pushing it there. then upgrading injectors and fuel pump after i get the car running reliably. i know my tranny is weak so ill be taking it easy there. cant figure out how to beat the check engine light doing a 5spd swap because the vvt-i years never came with such. so the ecu will be looking for the auto throwing codes.
depending on what my internals range is and tranny situation. ive been debating getting my tranny done and installing supra stick. and using a steering wheel with paddle shifters. i havent shot that idea out there so i have no idea how doable it is.
EDIT: Someone responded to a similar post of mine on ClubNA-t.com. What do you think?
Comparing a 99 SC300 and a 92 SC300 on *******.com, the rods (and bearings) have different part numbers. The crankshaft part numbers (and bearings) are the same - until 6/1999 anyway. This supports the weaker rod theory. Also of interest is the GTE rods and crank and bearings are the same as GE - at least for not VVT-i.
13201 ROD SUB-ASSY, CONNECTING
13201‑46060 2JZGE..JZZ31 (09/1997 - 06/1999) 6 $167.06
13201‑46061 2JZGE..JZZ31 (07/1999 - 06/2000) 6 $167.06
13201 ROD SUB-ASSY, CONNECTING
13201‑46040 2JZGE..JZZ31 6 $100.86
Crankshaft:
13411 CRANKSHAFT
13401‑46020 2JZGE..JZZ31 (08/1991 - 06/1999) 1 $1,174.93
13401‑46021 2JZGE..JZZ31 (07/1999 - 06/2000) 1 $1,174.93
13411 CRANKSHAFT
13401‑46020 2JZGE..JZZ31 1 $1,174.93
1999 SC300
1992 SC300
If I were the OP, I would do exactly what I already did. Buy a 1995 and don't worry about it. You also don't have the hassles of OBDII and boost.
Im pretty much looking to push the stock fuel as much as i can reliably. 9psi maybe 10, pushing it there. then upgrading injectors and fuel pump after i get the car running reliably. i know my tranny is weak so ill be taking it easy there. cant figure out how to beat the check engine light doing a 5spd swap because the vvt-i years never came with such. so the ecu will be looking for the auto throwing codes.
depending on what my internals range is and tranny situation. ive been debating getting my tranny done and installing supra stick. and using a steering wheel with paddle shifters. i havent shot that idea out there so i have no idea how doable it is.
EDIT: Someone responded to a similar post of mine on ClubNA-t.com. What do you think?
Comparing a 99 SC300 and a 92 SC300 on *******.com, the rods (and bearings) have different part numbers. The crankshaft part numbers (and bearings) are the same - until 6/1999 anyway. This supports the weaker rod theory. Also of interest is the GTE rods and crank and bearings are the same as GE - at least for not VVT-i.
13201 ROD SUB-ASSY, CONNECTING
13201‑46060 2JZGE..JZZ31 (09/1997 - 06/1999) 6 $167.06
13201‑46061 2JZGE..JZZ31 (07/1999 - 06/2000) 6 $167.06
13201 ROD SUB-ASSY, CONNECTING
13201‑46040 2JZGE..JZZ31 6 $100.86
Crankshaft:
13411 CRANKSHAFT
13401‑46020 2JZGE..JZZ31 (08/1991 - 06/1999) 1 $1,174.93
13401‑46021 2JZGE..JZZ31 (07/1999 - 06/2000) 1 $1,174.93
13411 CRANKSHAFT
13401‑46020 2JZGE..JZZ31 1 $1,174.93
1999 SC300
1992 SC300
If I were the OP, I would do exactly what I already did. Buy a 1995 and don't worry about it. You also don't have the hassles of OBDII and boost.
vvt-i internals are slightly weaker, but that goes for any NA car out there. The manufacturer doesnt account for someone slapping on a turbo or supercharger because they are looking at the bottom line to make a reliable car. My theory is if your going to go boost either be safe and run 5lbs or swap out the rods and pistons and go nuts. If your limited in funds leave the bottom end alone and do a thicker headgasket to lower your compression so you can boost more. Since your planning on 9-10psi you can get away with just doing your headgasket and calling it a day ( with the addition of supporting mods )
Lead Lap
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,682
Likes: 304
Tach. On my 2001 LS430 with 99,500 miles, I can feel the idle somewhat surging up and down in park. It is barely noticeable on the tachometer but is there. It is not dramatic, and all other performance, mileage, etc seems fine. The idle is smooth other than the surge. Is this normal? I don't have another car to compare it to. Thanks.
Last edited by Bocatrip; Jul 13, 2010 at 06:53 PM.
Lead Lap
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,682
Likes: 304
I live in Florida and the A/C is always on. Should the engine continue surging the entire time the a/c is on or just when it turns on? Maybe I'll turn off the A/C and see if it still exhibits the same surge. Thanks.
Last edited by Bocatrip; Jul 13, 2010 at 09:05 PM.
Lead Lap
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,682
Likes: 304
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: NY
P0161 - bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor
P0440 - evap code
Make sure there are no vacuum leaks, change out all sparkplugs if you havent done so already i.e. ( 90k miles ). Your evap may be a vacuum leak and/or loose gas cap; worst case you will need a charcoal canister. 02 sensor you have to replace.
Tach:
Strange sound that appears to be coming from the passenger front end. When I slowly come to a stop I hear a click or 2. Also when at a stop, brakes applied, turning the wheel in either direction causes some creeking. Any ideas?
My ball joints, control arms, and tie rods was changed in 2005/25k miles ago.
Thanks alot!
Bill
Strange sound that appears to be coming from the passenger front end. When I slowly come to a stop I hear a click or 2. Also when at a stop, brakes applied, turning the wheel in either direction causes some creeking. Any ideas?
My ball joints, control arms, and tie rods was changed in 2005/25k miles ago.
Thanks alot!
Bill
Last edited by sputniknyc; Jul 19, 2010 at 11:49 AM.
Pole Position
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: ma
Hey TACH How's things?
A mechanic told me that I need L+R rear axels, abs rings, and abs sensors. My ABS VSC light is not on.
98 GS400
I havent noticed any problems in the rear except after I replaced the pads and rotors there is a lot of metal noise especially during turns. I thought it was just the new brakes settling.
I'm gonna have another guy look at it but I wanted to check to see what you thought.
Thanks man. Great to have you here!!!!!!!!!!
A mechanic told me that I need L+R rear axels, abs rings, and abs sensors. My ABS VSC light is not on.
98 GS400
I havent noticed any problems in the rear except after I replaced the pads and rotors there is a lot of metal noise especially during turns. I thought it was just the new brakes settling.
I'm gonna have another guy look at it but I wanted to check to see what you thought.
Thanks man. Great to have you here!!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: NY
Tach:
Strange sound that appears to be coming from the passenger front end. When I slowly come to a stop I hear a click or 2. Also when at a stop, brakes applied, turning the wheel in either direction causes some creeking. Any ideas?
My ball joints, control arms, and tie rods was changed in 2005/25k miles ago.
Thanks alot!
Bill
Strange sound that appears to be coming from the passenger front end. When I slowly come to a stop I hear a click or 2. Also when at a stop, brakes applied, turning the wheel in either direction causes some creeking. Any ideas?
My ball joints, control arms, and tie rods was changed in 2005/25k miles ago.
Thanks alot!
Bill