Neo - Yep, when M1 first came onto the market there was a compatability problem with the seal materials of that day ( early-mid 70's, I think? ) but it's not an issue anymore. Much like not setting a battery on a concrete floor because it would slowly discharge itself due to the case material, technology has evolved for the better. Personally, I like RP but tend to use M1 simply from an availability standpoint. I'm an engineer for Royal Dutch Shell & formerly worked for Amerada Hess in their offshore operations. Some idiot foreman decided to save $ by switching from RP to a crude-based oil in all our rotating equipment ( compressors, generators, etc ) which run 24/7/365. The old RP was drained out & "dino" oil was put in & it didn't take a month for us to experience lubrication-related failures to the bearings!! Needless to say, we switched back to synthetics ( unfortunately NOT RP but still a Class IV from Shell - ironically, for me at least!! ) & the problems went away. FWIW - I'd also stay with the viscosity recommended by Lexus unless U live in an extremely cold climate where the 0W-30 might work better for ya on those cold morning startups.

 

That's exactly what i thought Mean Gene, they really did have those problems and it wasn't just certain isolated cases. god that foreman should of got sent back to school on lubrication. i will stay with the recommend weight my manual calls for i just wish i was more certain that now that my car has 70,000 on it i won't have no problems changeing to the sny.oil. i really don't know what oil was used when it was taken in for service since i just bought the car. Thanks for the reply NEO
Oh Gene, you should do a search for RP if you are interested, you will find a few places to get the stuff and also places with free shipping.

 

Mean Gene, "We" own Pennzoil and Quaker State Now...
How about a plus for using Pennzoil or Quaker State

another shameless attept to boost my stock investments.

 

Mean Gene another question:
I have talked to many people that get their oil changed at the dealerships, and the ones in houston all use 10w-30? since it is almost never below freezing or only for a short time, is it just as well running 10w-30? I still have a stash of 0w-30 from the time I raided the Target in my area ($2.97 a bottle), but seeing that at 40+F they por about the same...why not use 10w-30?

 

GS - I can't honestly give a plug for QS but that's based on past experiences from decades :eek: ago. I used to work in a speed shop & we built/rebuilt engines daily. We could ALWAYS tell who was running QS just by the sludge built up in the oil pan!! Now they tell me that it's been dramatically improved from a breakdown point but I'm too scared to try ( besides being sold on RP or M1 ). Now Pennzoil had a different feature - a very high parraffin content ( that's why it smelled so different when spilled onto a hot header!! ). Once again, it may have been improved but I'll stick with what worked for me before. Ever wonder why WE ( RD ) don't offer a consumer synthetic? It's too late now since QS & Pennz have their own formulas.
BTW - I run our Rotella oil ( now ) in my 185k mile work truck. I don't see a problem with 10W-30 instead of 5W-30 in our relatively mild climate of the Deep South.
NEO - Actually, I know that there's a dealer of RP in New Orleans ( I've seen his bright purple neon sign on the Interstate going to One Shell Square ) but just haven't stopped or called for pricing. Besides, I helped Muhammad ( "Mo" of Swift Racing ) get an oil developed for the SRT superchargers through a Conoco vendor in Houston & it IS a specially blended RP base stock oil so maybe I should check with them IF I get serious about running RP full time. Perhaps a group buy if there's enough interest?