Torque converter going bad
 

So I took my car out for an oil change, and the mechanic who's a good friend of mine, says the torque converter's going bad.

My questions below;

How much will it cost to replace?
Can I replace it my self?
What's a reasonable price to pay for a new one?
How can you tell if it's bad?

That would be one of my first questions... How exactly did he come to the conclusion that its going bad? Did you have any driveability problems? Did you notice anything different about how it drives?

If it is, in fact, bad, its probably 5-6 hours of labor to remove the transmission to swap it out. But if its going bad, and there is any foreign material floating through your transmission, it could be too late for the whole thing.

Does the car have any DTCs stored in the ECU?

howdid he know it was going bad?

When he told you, your TC was bad you didn't question him but believed him instead? Good friend would explain things much thoroughly...

I would very interested to know how he diagnosed that???

One of the most rare parts to fail on a transmission. You'll get a " shutter" when leaving/taking off from a stop.
If you just have a sluggish start or rough gear shifts it's time for the clutches to be replaced. Full rebuild

Although you are better off with the torque converter being bad (price wise at least), they rarely fail, and when they do, as mentioned above it is usually pretty obvious...

How was it diagnosed?

Well here's what happens.

On a full stop, the transmission (Auto btw) will be a bit sluggish. Nothing too out of the ordinary, just a bit of a push when sliding into the 2nd and 3rd gears. This would be after starting the car on a cold day, so it might be just the winter? I had a transmission fluid flush about 2 maybe 3 years ago, so I might be due in fact.

Check engine light was on, and he pulled the codes. One of the codes was a P0420 which is the O2 Sensor. Had all of them changed, and my gas mileage is pretty wicked now. :woohoo:

The second code, which I can't remember on my life, was for the TC. He inspected the fluid for the transmission, and said it was a bit dirty, and had some metal shavings. He suspected that it was from the transmission gears itself, and thus came to the conclusion that it was the TC.

I'm not 100% too sure on this, since I've only known him for about 5 years as a professional mechanic. Looking to get a 2nd opinion. Anyone willing to help me out?

Metal shaving would be coming from the transmission gears, not the TC. Have you change your tranny fluid yet?

Torque Converter
 

Hello everyone, I just joined the club. I look at the site all the time for Q&A but I decided to join. I need some help please. I took my car into the Lexus dealership today for a diagnostic and when they called me the first thing he said is I don't have good news.

He said my transmission will need to be replaced and the cost would be $4100.00 because Lexus does not re-build transmissions. The code that they got was the torque converter and solenoids.

I have been experiencing the shutter and when it's time to take off my car stutters it doesn't give me a smooth take off it jerks first. If I jump out in traffic it's like this car does not want to go. If I back into a parking spot and then put the car back in drive it stalls out on me. Aye Dios Mio!

Can someone give me a little more insight here.

What kind of Lexus are we talking about Anita?

First off a 420 code is for a catalysis converter code not an o2. If it's sluggish from a dead stop it could be the TQ stator but if it's during your second to third shifts it's most likely worn bands or possibly low on fluid. If it were either of these two the problem would get worse as the fluid gets hotter.
You can also check the TQ by performing a stall test. Also you won't get a specific code for a TQ only code would be a lockup selinoid.

Though P0420 generally is a failed catalytic converter, O2 sensors not responding accurately can cause this issue as well.

It is a 2006 GS 300. I took it to another transmission shop and they said that the Torque Converter is suppose to stop turning at 40-50 miles but mines is staying on.

So is it better to get a used transmission which I found a 2005 transmission with 51k miles for $770. Or is it better to just rebuild mine?

I expect the $770 does not include labor to install the used transmission in your car, so get that cost before you decide on a course of action. Also ask if there is a warranty on the used transmission?
Rebuilding your transmission will likely be more costly, $2-3K at a rebuild shop would be my guess but that should come with some sort of warranty.
The lock-up clutch on the torque converter is operated by a relay or solenoid. Be sure to ask if that small device has been checked before they tear things apart. You might get lucky and find its a simple fix.