Herm

In the middle of replacing stater on 1993 LS400. Upper and Lower intake manifold off. Now wondering if I have to remove rear coolant manifold, EGR pipe, and move wiring harness. Would sure like to avoid that, everything is so brittle. Going to buy 14 mm Snap-On flex crowfoot rachet mentioned in one of the starter replacement threads and GearWrench 14 mm. Problem I see with GearWrench is that it is 12 point and does not seem to be designed for high torque.

Looks like the 1993 LS400 is complicated by electric air pump pipes/hoses in the way also.

Is it possible to get to the starter bolts from underneath the vehicle.

Sure looks like the EGR pipe must come out to get access to the passenger side starter bolt. Can I get it out without disconnecting the exhaust pipes/cat converter. Looks tight.

Would appreciate any comments/advice.

I searched the forums, found some good general info. Can anyone point me to threads they have found particularly useful (perhaps detailed pictures and procedures for 1993 LS400 starter replacement)

guitarmike

I typically remove the starter bolts from under the vehicle. Remove the transmission mount and let tranny sag. Then with use of 36inch exteinsion or larger and a 14mm swivel socket reach the bolts. I usually place a flashlight resting on the starter with the light shining on the bolts. Then raise the vehilce and remove the bolts. Try to leave the bolts dangling in the holes so as to not have to fight trying to get them back in the hole. No disconnection of exhaust is necessary if you go this method. EGR can stay considering you've already gotten the intakes off.

RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

Thats pretty much exactly the way i do it too...

Herm

THANKS ! Great info ! I've done multiple searches and this is the first I've heard of this technique.

Just wanted to verify, as far as I can tell the transmission mount you are refering to is a crossmember just behind the transmisssion oil pan.

Do I need to remove the four bolts holding the crossmember to the chassis or just loosen them ?

Do I have to remove or loosen anything else to achieve the "'sag". Anything unique to the 1993 LS400 that you are aware of ?

How much "sag" should I get ?

I do not have a lift but I can get the vehicle up pretty high and I have a transmission floor jack I can put under the trans to gently lower it.

I'll document my experiences with the job on this thread so it will hopefully help others also.

Thanks again

Herm

RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

The 4 bolts for the transmission crossmember need to be completely removed. The rear of the transmission will drop down about 3-4 inches. Be sure the car is very well supported, so you can get under there and try to see the back of the engine where the bolts are. You will need a strong impact gun, or a breaker bar and a lot of strength. Because the length of the extention you will be using will eat up all the torque. Good luck!

guitarmike

Yeah, I usually just remove the crossmember as it makes it somewhat easier to see the starter bolts. All in all, basically, it's a pain in the but job considering that most of the electrical connections are rather crispy from the heat and years of age. Any questions feel free to ask again. I am more than willing to help you in this extensive job.

Herm

Do I need to disconnect the drive shaft (or anything else) ?

My configuration is back wheels on the ground, floor jack lifting front crossmember under engine high enough for me to get under vehicle (and of course several jackstands as backup for safety)

Thanks - Herm

Herm

You guy's and this forum are the greatest !

I was able to lower the trans and got the starter bolts off with a flex 14 mm socket on a long extention as was suggested. Had the wife topside calling directions to guide me on the bolts. The drivers side was a little tougher, trick turned out to be going between the exhaust pipe and floor of car with the extention to get a better angle.

I think trying to remove the starter bolts from the top by removing the harness and coolant manifold as suggested in the service manual might have been a disaster. Things are so brittle and even with those components out of the way there is not a clear shot to the bolts.

Lots of work left to do !

Any suggestions for cleaning the throttle body, intake manifolds, and heads near the valves now that they are exposed. They are all caked with 14 years and 150,000 miles of thick crud.

THANKS AGAIN - Herm

Herm

another question

Most of the electrical connectors were so brittle the locking tabs broke off. For most of them I can use nylon wire ties to hold them down

My concern is the push on connector on the starter. Brittle, oil soaked, who knows what condition internally. Would like to replace it, I asked Lexus dealer if replacement connector available but have not heard back yet, do you guy's know where I can get one ?

If that connector fails same as the starter failing of course

If I can't get a new connector I was thinking of soldering a wire directly to the terminal of the starter cutting off the old connector on the harness and soldering the wire to it.

Thanks - Herm

guitarmike

Welcome to the world we have all experienced at the dealership. The connectors all can just be assured of staying together by using the zip ties every where a connector broke, including the starter connector. It's very likely they won't be able to get a replacement connector or you. It's probably only offered as part of an engine wiring harness. Sorry to break the news to you, but that's usually how it goes.

If you are good with soldering you could consider that, but remember that it's extremely hot in that area, and all in all I'd be a little leary of the solder joint holding up over time. It's such a hard starter to get to that I would likely just super glue the connector together then zip tie it as a backup. By super glue just cover the male portion of the connector away from the contact points with glue then insert it in the starter. Zip tie then call it a day.
As far as cleaning the intake, you could go to your local parts supplier, and purchase some throttle body/intake cleaner, or if thats not available just get some old fashioned carburator cleaner. I typically use a toothbrush to clean the throttle blade, and you can use it anywhere to clean any of that sludge off. I highly recommend cleaning as much as you can see, just make sure nothing falls down into the intake!!!!!

Herm

Thanks, carburator cleaner was the best of the several cleaners I tried but it still was a tough job.

Old connector was really bad and replacement not available. I soldered new wire directly to starter terminal using silver solder (melting point 430 F, RadioShack 64-026)

My concern now is getting starter bolts back in. Fine threads, impossible to start by hand. Universal joint seems too coarse to start bolts so I was going to try a flexible shaft extention and then switch back to the universal for tightening.

Any suggestions or experieince on this bolt starting question would be appreciated

THANKS

Herm

Herm

Success - thanks to the excellent advice I received on this forum ! One of the toughest jobs I ever did due to access and everything being brittle.

Using a short spring type flexible shaft extention (craftsman 4336) on the end of the long extentions worked out great for starting the bolts. I switched back to a universal for tightening after the bolts were started (the movement of the universal seemed too coarse for me to start the bolts). I was working by myself so I was able to use a cheap TV camera on top with me watching a monitor under the car to get the bolts in the holes.

Need help with one question, does anyone know the size/threads for the bolt which holds the fuel return pipe to the rear of the engine block ? It is the one bolt I lost and very tough to see, I don't want to risk starting the wrong size bolt.

Thanks Herm