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Accessory (serpetine) belt change

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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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Default Accessory (serpetine) belt change

I have a 01 IS300 with 56,000 miles on it, at around 51,000 the accessory belt started to squeak on start up, and sometimes in wet conditions, when I took it into the dealership they told me not to worry until the 60k service to changed it, so they put some type of belt dressing on it and sent me on my way. Well the belt is starting to squeak a little more often, and since I like working on my car I wonder if you guy's can tell me how to change it out instead of Lexus charging me to do it. I've done a search and found some information for the v8 in the GS400, and a illustration for gs 300, but it wasn't too clear on how to change it. Any tips would be appreciated.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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The belt should only squeal at cold startups i believe. Changing the belt is so easy just look at the little pictured diagram that's on the engine bay.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rgarjr
The belt should only squeal at cold startups i believe. Changing the belt is so easy just look at the little pictured diagram that's on the engine bay.
But which way do you turn the tensioner clockwise, counter clockwise? One member had said in a previous post counter clockwise, but the illustration was showing clockwise Does anything needs to be re-torque?
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 05:31 AM
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They use the standard counter-clockwise to loosen. Loosen the locking bolt; slightly loosen the pivot bolt also.

I always use a little solvent and a rag to clean the pulleys prior to reinstalling the new belt.

Tighten to about a quarter inch deflection at the widest point between two pulleys, pressing reasonably hard on the belt.

If a squeak or squeal occurs, snug the belt a little more.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 11:18 AM
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I would also recommend the Goodyear gatorback poly-v belts. My toyota belt started squeaking only 10k miles after changing. I knew it was fine, but left it on. it would squeak a little here and there. Bought the goodyear belt and it sounds much quieter. Highly recommended.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tammy
They use the standard counter-clockwise to loosen. Loosen the locking bolt; slightly loosen the pivot bolt also.

I always use a little solvent and a rag to clean the pulleys prior to reinstalling the new belt.

Tighten to about a quarter inch deflection at the widest point between two pulleys, pressing reasonably hard on the belt.

If a squeak or squeal occurs, snug the belt a little more.
Are there any factory marks I should look for when re-installing the belt?
Is there an illustration I can use for reference anywhere?

Last edited by trent; Aug 17, 2006 at 04:28 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 07:18 PM
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What type of tool did you guy's used to get to the tensioner? It's such a tight fit between the fan housing and pulley's to get to the belt.
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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When my mechanic buddy helped me change the accessory belt that drives the A/C compressor in the ES, he used either a 12mm or 14mm socket wrench to loosen the adjusting and locking bolts which hold the generator in place. This helps create some slack on the belt, at which point it should be loosened enough to be removed.
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lexusk8
When my mechanic buddy helped me change the accessory belt that drives the A/C compressor in the ES, he used either a 12mm or 14mm socket wrench to loosen the adjusting and locking bolts which hold the generator in place. This helps create some slack on the belt, at which point it should be loosened enough to be removed.
Hmm thanks for the reply, but I think on the I-6 engine the tensioner swings to one side without loosening any bolts, all my wrenches that I have are too short and I need to know what size wrench I need to purchase to access it, I know the bolt on the tensioner is a 14mm.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 07:37 AM
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Most tensioners are 12mm head bolts. I use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 12mm socket.
The pivit bolts may be 14mm. Lockdown bolt is usually 12mm.
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