yoji6365

Tools needed: Socket, Ratchet, Torque wrench,Bucket, Clear hose, Plastic Tie Wrap,Funnel

Clean the area around the pan, clean the bolt heads for the pan, make sure none of the bolt heads are damaged.

Remove the drain plugs and let drain, remove tranny pan, let drain for awhile, change filter, torque to specs,clean magnets, install gasket and pan, torque to specs install new crush washer and plugs, torque to spec..

Find the hose that goes from your tranny to radiator, place clear hose over the hose coming from tranny, place tube in bucket, fasten tie wrap to secure hose from moving too much

Refill tranny with same amount of old fluid that came out when you dropped the pan. It doesnt have to be an exact amount, but should be very close.

Next, this is where a helper would help, but not necessary. Start car and old crappy fluid should be coming out of the clear hose. If its not, you have the wrong hose. As a precaution, I put a clear hose over the radiator part just to be safe. Dont let the engine run too long, as soon as the flow slows down, stop the engine. Refill each time you do this with an equal amount.

It takes a lot of repeats until the fluid is a nice color. I think I did it around 8 times. Could be more or less depending on how long you run the engine.

Once you are comfortable that the fluid is the new color, replace the hose back onto the radiator.
Check for leaks around pan, a very small hint of fluid doesnt mean you have a leak, just make sure its not an obvious flow.

Before driving it on the street, make sure every gear works. You'll have a tendency to leave the fluid level low. When the shifting seems normal, take it for a drive until normal operating temp. Should be around 15 minutes to be safe. Check level again, should be a nice reddish color and clear.

Extra hints: Make sure all the tranny pan bolts are the same, if not, mark the odd bolt and which hole it came from

the differential drain plug may be in a tight space and a torque wrench may not fit, is thats the case, get it as tight as the drain plug on the pan

Take your time and it will go smoother.

ridedumped

i'm sorry i didnt really understand this thread...

1. so do i have to drain both the tranny and the differential fluid at the same time or can i just drain the tranny?

2. does it make a difference if i dont drain both?

3. do i have fill them both up at the same time and are they both filled up from the same hole (where the dipstick is)?

4. where do i fill i back up at?

5. does it take over 3 1/2 qts if your just doing a drain and not a 100% flush?

6. any step by step diy's to clear up any confusion?
__________________

Tammy

1. Drain the transmission plug, then the transaxle plug. The plug seals should be a reusuable aluminum, both plugs.. Retorque as previously recommended - 36 Ft Lbs

2. Drain both, they are draining the same shared fluid

3. The dipstick fill, using a small metal kitchen funnel, fills both transmission and transaxle at the same time. Pour it in slowly, as it vents air out through the same tube.

4. The metal tube the dipstick fits into.

5. The drain&fill takes 3.8 quarts...plus or minus a tenth. Start with checking at 3.5 quarts.
(Gentle reminder - Check with the engine idling in Park... both cold and hot transmission)

A flush usually requires about 16 quarts, most is thrown away as drain out.

The total capacity of the complete unit dry fill is about 9.5 quarts.

A drain and fill in your case should not require removing the pan and cleaning the screen filter.

ridedumped

thanks tammy for answering all my questions!

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the info Tammy... I assume this is the same for my 97 ES.. I didn't know that the tranny fluid shares with the differential.. I think i messed up than.. Last year i just changed the tranny fluid which i thought was 3.8 quarts? I didn't do the differential? SO i ended up putting about 3.5 quarts back.. So now I'm over on the dip stick.. I think I'm going to change both this week..

So i can undo both bolts and refill with 3.8 quarts as you mentioned above? Please PM me or reply as I'm sure i didn't do it right..

Thanks
Tony

ridedumped

what is the tool called to take off the bolts? and what size is it for both?

Lexmex

Replacing the gasket and tranny filter along with cleaning out the pan is something I highly recommend. I have this theory that no matter how many drain and fills you do, accumulation at the bottom of the pan may be one reason that some RX owner are getting tranny failure. I think with an ES you stand a better chance given weight and power differences.

Tammy

10 mm hex bit socket ... 3/8 inch drive Sears Craftsman # 42679 $5.49

This fits both plugs.

TunedRX300

It is called Allen wrench 10mm. Go with Tammy's recommendation if you have a 3/8 torque wrench.
Lexmex is right that one needs to drop the pan and exam the condition of the tranmission filter and how much metal debris is accumulated on those magnets. Drain and fill is good, but can not get rid of what is not suspended in the fluid. Since transmission is a closed system, stuff that did not get drained out will find its way back into critical part of the transmission.
I made a Photo DIY for the RX300, some of these steps may apply to ES.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=220061

ridedumped

thanks guys. i will more than likely drop the pan within the next couple months, but for now i wanna drain the fluid to atleast get some kind of piece of mind since the fluid's so dark brown.


thanks again for the help


k i drained it once, drove around the block a few times and its still pretty dark brown...

should i drain the fluid one more time?

Lexmex

Take a good look at TunedRX300's link as he found an excellent way to maximize the amount of fluid that can be drained on one drain and fill.

In the past, I used to do 3 drain and fills spread out over 3 weeks to get the fluid looking good, but that cost time, effort and most important to all of us, extra $$$ for the fluid and $$$ for service unless you are a DIYer.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

Tammy please PM me... Thanks

Tony